How to Prepare Your Dog for Your Newborn Baby

If you are like much of the population, your four-legged friend is your first "baby." Many people worry needlessly about how their dog will handle a baby in their life. Many owners think of getting rid of the family pets because of fears that they will harm the baby. Please do not do this unless there is no other option. Most dogs, when treated and trained properly, can handle life with a newborn very well.

Children and pets make wonderful companions when raised properly together and taught how to behave with each other. Children that grow up in a home with pets learn respect and love for animals, and more importantly, respect for life. As the children grow older they can learn responsibility by helping to care for the animals. Animals enrich our and our children's lives beyond belief.

Having a baby can cause problems for both humans and dogs, as the dog tends to be treated differently, and because of this, may act differently. Some owners baby the dog more, causing the dog to become spoiled and hard to handle. Other owners get over-stressed and punish the dog for normal, curious behavior toward the baby. Often our pets are the center of our world, our "babies" if you would, and can get "jealous" if not equipped to handle losing that status to the new baby. If you are willing to make the time and effort to prepare your pets for the new arrival, everyone can live in harmony.

Sometimes the dogs become overprotective of the baby. Many owners enjoy and even prefer the dog being a guard for the baby. While it is normal for the dog to become protective of the baby, it is dangerous for the dog to become overprotective and not let anyone near the baby. All of the above scenarios can lead to the dog being kicked out of the house!

As you are making preparations to bring home baby, you need to prepare your dog(s) for the same in advance if possible. While most dogs will be very gentle with the baby, many dogs do not see babies as humans because of their size, smell, and the strange noises they make. By taking the time to give your dog some extra love and attention he should be fine and not turn to bad behavior to get your attention. You need to prepare and educate your dog for what lies ahead. This will ensure that they are ready and willing to accept the new family member with open and loving paws.

Using calming remedies (herbs, aromatherapy, oils) and or prescription medications are also an option to help facilitate a better behaved dog. You can talk to your veterinarian to inquire about these products and the implications associated with their use. I am a believer in the holistic approach whenever possible, instead of using drugs.

Please, please always be aware that your dog is an animal and animals can bite or do harm to a baby, intentionally or unintentionally. No matter how well-behaved or loving your dog is NEVER LEAVE YOUR DOG ALONE WITH YOUR BABY! I cannot stress this enough. Accidents can happen. You do not want to harm your baby or have to get rid of your dog because of an unfortunate, and possibly avoidable, incident.

If you are unsure that your dog will accept your new baby, please seek the advice of a professional trainer or behaviorist before making any decisions.

Believe it or not, your behavior with, and toward your dog matters. It can make or break your dog's acceptance of and respect for your baby. If you act like a leader, you will be treated like a leader. You want your dog to respect every human being in your household, including your baby. You must teach your dog respect for the baby. This will make life easier for all those involved.

Be firm but fair-

Do not let your dog get away with things, but don't be a drill sergeant either! Try to make any corrections as gentle as possible, but make sure they are effective. Try to have fun with your dog and the training - you both need to enjoy it or neither one will want to continue!

Your tone of voice matters-

DO NOT YELL at your dog! Convey the meaning of the command through the tone of voice - match your voice to what you are telling your dog. Commands should be short and succinct, in a low, almost growling voice. Your voice should not get higher as you give the command. Do not sing to your dog or ask the dog a question! You will not get the answer you want! When giving praise, sound like you mean it! It should be the opposite of a command - higher pitched and enthusiastic. If your dog gets overly excited when you praise him, tone it down a bit and speak softly. Your dog will still understand that he is doing a good job, but he will be less likely to jump around and be crazy.

Be calm and assertive-

Our dogs feed off of our energies and emotions. This affects their behaviors and reactions. If we are relaxed and confident, our dogs will feel the same, and know that we are LEADING them, and they do not have to lead us.

Use a crate-

If your dog does not already use a crate, now is the time to start. A crate is not cruel, it can actually be a wonderful and safe place for your dog. Confining your dog at certain times, such as for sleep or times when you cannot supervise, is no different than putting your baby in its crib for the same. It is actually very easy to teach your dog to accept being in the crate. Most people think that a dog who has not used a crate before will have a hard time, but that is not usually true. My two older dogs started using the crate when they were 7 and 8 years old, about the time my son started crawling and exploring on his own. This allowed me to know that both my child and my dogs were safe and nothing bad could happen. Your child can be hurt by your dog as easy as your child could hurt your dog. The problem lies in the fact that if the dog makes even the slightest threat to your baby or even inadvertently hurts your baby, it is your dog's fault. It is not fair to the dog for something like that to happen because you were not supervising the two together at all times!

Eliminate bad manners-

Bad manners cannot be accepted as they can be dangerous to a new baby and a new mom. Jumping and nipping are behaviors that need to be stopped right away. Stealing and rough-play also need to be nipped in the bud immediately.

Teach your dog how to be calm and gentle, by praising and treating this behavior.

Working commands into everyday life and play makes listening easy and normal for your dog. It becomes natural to the dog and it is less-likely that your dog will be out-of-control. It is also good for you too, as it makes sure that you are training your dog everyday, making you the leader - not the follower.

Exercise is key for good behavior-

As I stated earlier in the guide, exercise is imperative for your dog. This ensures that your dog will be better behaved because it doesn't have the energy to misbehave! Regular walks are important. If you do not have the time to walk for miles, using a doggie backpack can make a short walk seem like a long walk for your dog. A dog backpack immediately puts your dog into work mode, which will help to tire her brain. If you evenly balance some weight on each side, such as water bottles, it will further the amount of physical energy that is expended by your dog. Teaching your dog to walk nicely next to the stroller is also important. It is very difficult and dangerous to have a dog pulling and out of control while trying to maneuver a stroller. If you plan to use a baby carrier, sling, backpack or car seat your dog needs to behave on the leash and walk with you, not pull you. It is a good idea to practice with the equipment before baby comes (use a doll in place of the baby) so that you can work out any kinks or problems.

Have regular obedience sessions with your dog so that she does not forget her commands and remembers that she has to listen at all times. This also helps to tire her brain! Try to work the commands into everyday life so that it becomes second nature to her.

Is your dog allowed on your furniture?-

If your dog is currently allowed on the furniture you may want to reconsider this as your baby will likely be on the furniture a lot. Dog hair and dirt can irritate your baby. You also don't want to have to constantly clean up after the dog. Your dog could also inadvertently injure the baby jumping up on the furniture or repositioning himself. It's best to restrict access to the furniture so that problems do not occur.

Time-out for your dog-

Be sure you give your dog time away from the baby to settle. Time outs are an effective tool to allow your dog to keep its sanity and also for when they are doing something wrong.

Your new schedule and your dog-

It is time to readjust the dog's schedule to acquaint her with the upcoming changes. Think realistically about the time you will have for the dog for things such as walks, feeding, potty breaks, play and attention. Try to keep the schedule consistent for your dog so that she does not feel unnecessary stress from the changes that are happening before your baby arrives. Having as little disruptions as possible will help to accomplish this goal. Once your dog feels secure and is used to the new routine, try to start having slight variations in your daily happenings. When your baby arrives things do not always go as planned. You can have every intention of staying on schedule and inevitably something will change that schedule! Babies do not follow schedules! Do try to stay on schedule, when possible, so that your dog is allowed some semblance of a routine. Dogs feel safety when the rules and routines stay the same.

Pay less attention to your dog-

It is now time to teach the dog to expect less attention from you in one sitting. Once the baby arrives you will not have the same amount of quality time to spend with your dog, but it is still essential to make time for your dog. Schedule regular 5 to 10 minute sessions each day where you pay full attention to your dog. You can do things such as play, grooming, petting or just talk to your dog. This allows your dog to understand that he is still an important part of your life. You need to teach the dog that this time may be with or without the baby. This is also a good time for you to relax and unwind as pets are very therapeutic. Be aware that if you have more than one pet, each will need individual attention if possible. You can also give the pack the attention at the same time, providing they get along, or allow them to play together to burn energy.

Your dog needs to be calm and balanced-

You need to make sure that your dog is calm and balanced before baby comes into the house. It is very important for your dog to learn how to be calm so that he does not hurt you or the baby. Your dog needs to be balanced so that he does not stress needlessly and act out inappropriately. If your dog is not calm and balanced there are ways to help you accomplish this. Training and exercise are good places to start to achieve a calm and balanced dog. If these do not work your dog may have something wrong with him, such as a mental or physical problem. Consult with your vet and local canine behaviorist or trainer. They should be able to steer you in the right direction. They can help advise you of the route you should take, whether behavior modification, medication, or holistic remedies.

Is your dog gentle?-

Teaching your dog how to be gentle is extremely important so that he will not inadvertently hurt the baby. Many dogs use their teeth too much and need to be taught the proper way to use their mouths - without the teeth!

Does your dog jump?-

If your dog is a jumper, teaching proper greetings will help to curb this problem. It is vital that your dog can see people without jumping or getting overly excited. When the baby comes home there will probably be lots of people visiting and he will need to be on his best behavior. It also facilitates the proper, gentle behavior your dog should have around the baby.

How will my dog handle the baby being rough with her?-

Teaching your dog what to physically expect from your baby is extremely important so that she is able to cope with and know what to do when baby pulls, hits or pushes her. Infants and children are not necessarily gentle by nature, and have to be taught how to be so. Your dog also needs to learn how to deal with these behaviors from his small leaders. Start to gently handle your dog in a rougher fashion while praising good behavior and gently, if possible, correcting inappropriate behavior such as nipping or mouthing. Children tend to pet roughly, pull ears and tails, put their hands in the dog's face and touch sensitive areas on the dog. You need to mimic these behaviors in order to teach your dog what to expect and how to deal with it appropriately. Make it a daily habit to have time on the floor with your dog touching every part of his body in a loving fashion. This is good because it allows the dog to accept touch in areas that it may not want touched. It also teaches the dog to be gentle while on the floor and to be submissive to you and your baby. Do this slowly and your dog will understand

Obedience training your dog-

Your dog needs to be obedience trained and have basic manners. I suggest that you enroll in a training class if you can. Check your local training clubs, or facilities, for classes and make sure to observe a class so that you can see how they train. Make sure that you are comfortable with their techniques and the instructors. If you are not allowed to observe a class, please look elsewhere. Trainers who are legitimate should have no problem with this and encourage you to do so.

The following are some basic commands and actions that your dog should be able to do to ensure that he will listen and be under control:

Walk nicely on a leash
Sit
Down
Stay
Leave-it
NO
Understand boundaries
Quiet
Attention/Look
Drop-it
Go to Your Spot/Place

Teaching the dog to respond to hand signals will also be beneficial. A sleeping baby is less likely to get woken up if you are not talking.

It is also a good idea to teach your dog to accept wearing a leash - in and out of the house. This ensures that you have control over your dog and tends to help make the dog better behaved. Most towns and cities have leash laws so it is imperative that your dog get used to the leash. You should also walk your dog everyday. This gives your dog mental stimulation, as well as physical exercise, which helps to tire them out, thus making them less likely to get into trouble and an overall better behaved dog.

Spot, Go To Your Spot!-

The "Go to Your Spot" command is a great command to have in your arsenal for a well-behaved dog. You can use this exercise to allow your dog to be with you and not underfoot, or keep your dog at a distance and still know where he is and what he's doing. It teaches your dog to go lie down on a rug or blanket and stay until released.

Long down stays are important in general, whether or not he is "in a spot", because they help you to maintain control over your dog. By your dog having to work for you, it facilitates a relationship in which you are dominant (in charge or the alpha figure) in your and your dog's mind.

Teach your dog what he can chew on-

All dogs chew. Each has a specific reason for it, and has a physical need to chew. They need to chew to exercise their jaws as well as to let out pent up frustrations. Excessive chewing can also be a breed trait. To help avoid problems, do not set yourself up for failure.

Soiling in the house-

If your dog has an accident in the house, or is not housetrained, you need to clean it properly to avoid further "accidents" or remarking of the same areas and to maintain a sanitary environment. Dog feces can contain parasites and other unwanted disease. Giardia, E-Coli, other worms and parasites are sometimes present in the feces and many are transferrable to humans.

Use high-value treats-

Use treats of high value - treats your dog loves and doesn't normally get - when dealing with new baby sights, sounds and scents. This tells your dog that these are good things, and that he should like them and associate them with rewards, instead of feeling malice or fear towards them. Make sure to keep the treats special, and only use them for the purposes of getting your pup familiar with what the new baby will be like.

The health and cleanliness of your dog is vital-

It is essential that your dog has a clean bill of health and is clean before you bring your baby home. Take your dog to the vet for a check-up to make sure that he has no health problems as these can cause unwanted behaviors in your dog that will interfere with his life with your baby. Make sure that he is up-to-date on all shots, or that his titer levels are good, and that he is worm-free.

The next thing you need to make sure of is that you bathe your dog or have him groomed BEFORE the baby comes home. If your dog sheds, it is a good idea to start a de-shedding program, such as regular grooming and adding a product such as Linatone (which you can obtain at your local pet store, online or at some groomers) which has a special combination of oils to help the skin and coat. Be careful not to over-bathe your dog as this can cause skin problems in many dogs. Make sure that he has no fleas or ticks as this is unsanitary and can expose your baby to health problems. It also creates problems as you will not have much time to bathe him once the baby is around. Using special flea and tick medication will help to ensure that he remains flea-less and tick-less.

Start teaching your dog to accept his paws and body wiped when he comes in from outside will aid in reducing the amount of dirt he tracks in the house. It also reduces the chance that your dog will carry in something that will cause an allergic reaction in you or your baby

Also, make sure to vacuum or sweep regularly as dog hair accumulates fast. This is especially important once your baby starts to crawl or be on the ground a lot, unless of course you want the baby to be a human Swiffer!

Carry a doll-

The idea of carrying around a doll (preferably one that cries) may seem silly, but it is a very good way to get your dog used to an addition to the family. Everything is different with a baby. Holding a baby changes your posture, and your mannerisms, so your dog needs to be comfortable and accepting of this. The dog also needs to follow commands and be obedient when you have the baby or the baby is out and about. Using a doll while practicing everyday commands will help your dog respond better when the baby arrives. Take the dog for walks, play with the dog, and all the normal things you do with your dog with and without the baby equipment and doll.

Baby sounds-

Getting your dog used the sounds of a baby is also a good idea. This allows your dog to familiarize herself with the alien noises that it may not have heard before so that it is not a surprise when baby comes home. Things like crying, gurgling, yelling/screaming, and baby babble are not necessarily normal for a dog to hear. There are many cds and tapes that you can purchase for this purpose. Start the volume low and expose your dog for short periods of time at first. Gradually increase the volume and amount of time you play the sounds. Try to play the recording everyday until the baby arrives.

Real babies and children-

Another good idea is to expose your dog to the real thing - real babies and children. If you have friends or relatives who have babies you can ask if they will allow your dog to listen in or even record them for you. You can visit places like parks, if your dog is well-behaved, so your dog can hear all of the noises children make. Make sure to start this away from your house so that your dog does not feel threatened in her own territory. The next step is to expose your dog in your yard, and then in your house. Make this a gradual process so your dog can slowly accept it.

Baby smells-

The smells of a baby are often unfamiliar to a dog. Slowly start to get your dog used to these new smells by using the products you will use on your baby, such as baby oil, powder, baby wash and diaper cream. Putting these products on baby blankets and baby clothes will also help. If you have friends or relatives that have babies, ask to borrow used and unwashed blankets and burp cloths so that the dog can get accustomed to the real smells of a baby.

The Nursery-

Setting up the nursery allows your dog to become acquainted with changes in the house. It allows your dog to become comfortable with the sights and sounds associated with baby equipment, thus avoiding shock when baby arrives.

If you don't want your pup in the nursery you need to start restricting access now. Keeping the door shut or a baby gate in the doorway helps to achieve this. Your dog will not feel left out or anxious about no longer being allowed in that room. Another good idea is to put a dog bed outside of the nursery so that your dog is still close to you, but not in the room. He will not feel banished, but will feel more included. Spend time in the room without your pooch so he understands that this will be normal, and that it is no longer his territory. As he starts to understand that the room is no longer his, he will accept it and be less likely to try to get in there when the baby comes home. This also helps to keep the room clean and free of dog hair and dirt. You will have more than enough to clean in the nursery as it is!

If you plan to allow your dog in the nursery start to teach the proper behaviors as soon as possible. Train her to be calm in there and not to jump up on the furniture and baby equipment. It is also a good idea to teach her to do down-stays when in the nursery so that she is allowed to be with you and the baby, but is out of the way and behaving. You may also want to have a bed or rug in there that your dog is allowed to lay on (remove it when you and the dog are not in the room). When the baby starts to crawl and move about you may want to limit the amount of time the dog spends in there and never leave the baby alone with the dog.

Baby's things are off-limits-

Make sure to constantly reinforce that the baby's things are not the dog's things. Even though you may have practiced this before the baby came home, dogs do need reminders.

It is important to dispose of dirty diapers properly to ensure that your dog does not get them. Dogs love things that have human waste on them, such as dirty diapers and feminine products. Keep these products out of reach as they will make an awful mess and are very unhealthy for your dog to ingest. They have chemicals that are not good for your dog and can cause blockages. Besides, the consuming of human waste can also make your dog sick (and have disgusting breath!).

Teach your dog to leave baby blankets alone and not to lay or step on them. Lay them on the furniture and the floor to teach your dog that they are off limits. If your dog tries to walk or lay on them use a firm "NO" and redirect your dog to a proper spot and have him lay down. When your dog avoids these on his own, praise him for his good behavior with a treat or petting and he will understand that these items are not something to go near. You want to prevent possible injuries to your baby from your dog while baby is lying on or hiding under the blankets (as often babies do!).

Teach your dog which toys belong to him-

It is recommended to teach your dog what toys are his and what toys are the baby's before baby arrives so that you will not have problems after. This is also a good idea because you can purchase toys similar to what your baby will have and not worry about using baby's actual toys for these exercises. An easy way to do this is to use peanut butter (or something like it such as cream cheese or cheese spread) and bitter apple (you can purchase this online or at pet stores). Put bitter apple on the baby's toys and peanut butter on the dog's toys. Before you give your dog the choice about which toys he wants, take a little bitter apple on your finger and wipe it around in your dog's mouth. This will help your dog to immediately identify the nasty taste on the baby toys. If you do not do this the bitter apple often dilutes and the dog will be able to get the baby's toys because the taste is bearable. Make sure to have some treats ready to reward your dog when he chooses his toys over baby's. Put the dog's leash on and you are ready to begin. Put the "marked" toys on the floor and let your dog decide which toys he prefers. If he still tries to take the baby toys, tell him "no, leave-it", and if necessary pull him away with the leash with a quick jerking motion. Do not try to hurt the dog, just give a quick correction as you repeat "no, leave-it". When your dog does "leave" the baby toys alone, praise and treat. You can also teach the dog the concepts of "Mine", "Baby's" and "Yours" by adding these phrases to the training sessions. When the dog goes for his toys you can say, "Good! Yours!" When the dog goes for the baby's toys say, "No, Leave-it, Baby's". You can use the same principle as used for the baby's toys when the dog goes for something that is yours by substituting "Mine" in place of "Baby's."

Please remember that if you leave your baby's toys lying around your dog will most likely try to steal them. The temptation is too much for her to handle and she probably will fail. Do not set her up for failure! Try to get toys for the dog that are not like the baby's - no stuffed animals and things that rattle. There are plenty of good dog toys that are very different from baby toys. Lastly, only keep a few of the dog's toys out at a time. This will avoid her falling prey to the syndrome of "everything within my reach is mine!" If she understands that the three toys on the ground are hers, she will be less apt to take things she shouldn't.

If you follow the guidelines set forth in this article you should be able to accustom your dog to your newborn without much difficulty. Remember, when in doubt, always consult a professional trainer!

Mandy Makein is an author and dog trainer. For free dog training report visit http://www.stopdogjump.com/

(c) Copyright Mandy Makein 2010. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.

How To Train Your Dog

One of the few things that dog owners or prospective dog owners think about is whether or not they will need to train their dog. Although training a dog is not absolutely essential unless your dog has a particular problem, a small amount of training to remove bad habits and set boundaries for your dog should be considered. In addition to this, a well trained dog will feel much more secure in your home when it knows its boundaries. Even in the wild, a dog will have some sort of enforced boundaries of behavior by the pack structure and hierarchy that exists. At the end of the day, your dog is part of your 'pack'.

A very important point to note about dog training is that any form of training should be approached from the perspective of 'positive reinforcement'. This simply means that you should reward your dog with praise, a treat or even better, both for any positive behavior that she exhibits. Success will come quickly to anybody who praises a dog for good behavior. The same cannot be said for somebody who punishes a dog for NOT exhibiting good behavior.

For example - If you ask your dog to sit and she does, you give her a treat. In the dogs mind sitting when told equals treat. Simple.

Now what if you tell the dog to sit and she doesn't, and then you punish her? In the dogs mind you have just dished out a random punishment for nothing. This will only serve to confuse your dog and lead her to mistrust you.

Positive reinforcement is the key.

One of the most common mistakes that dog owners make is to inadvertently train their dog....... into bad habits. Typical examples include barking, face licking, jumping up. Let's look at each of these.

Barking - Most dogs' bark, that's a fact. It's WHEN a dog barks that determines whether it's normal behavior or a bad habit. If your dog only barks when somebody comes to the door - fine. This is normal territorial behavior. Your dog is warning you - as a member of its pack - that there's potential danger at the door.

If your dog spends the best part of its waking life barking at just about anything including you, then it's formed into a bad habit - but one that is easy to cure.

The first mistake that people make is to shout "Quiet" or "Shut up" at their barking dog. The main reason why this will not work is simple. Your dog barks, then you 'bark'. From your perspective you are shouting at your dog to shut up. From your dogs' perspective, you are barking along and enjoying the noise.

A more effective method is to wait for a pause in your dogs barking then heap lots of praise and a treat upon your dog. As soon as the barking starts again, ignore your dog, walk off - anything but DO NOT pay your dog any attention. Then, when the barking stops its treat time again. It won't be long before your dog puts two and two together.

Face Licking - Face licking is an overthrow from your dog's puppy days. Face licking is a way for a puppy to get its mother to regurgitate food for them. You will often see this in the wild. Also wild dogs will lick the face of a higher member of the pack to express and accept their submissive status in the pack. Unfortunately, because you and your family members are higher in the pack, you get the licks!

At first sight face licking is not a problem but should still be avoided due to health concerns. Never let a dog lick a baby or toddlers face. This is likely to expose the infant to germs that its immune system may not be able to handle. Similarly if your dog has worms or has been investigating other dogs' faeces or even grooming itself, the last thing you want is for your dog to come and lick your face. Try and discourage this behavior using positive reinforcement.

When your dog approaches your face firmly - but not shouting - say "No!" If the dog doesn't back off push her away from your face. When the dog first responds to the "No" phrase, it's time for a treat. Keep this up consistently, and the dog will realize face licking is unacceptable.

Jumping Up - Jumping up may not seem such a bad habit, but if there are young children about it can be quite dangerous. Your dog will not know that jumping on you is o.k. but jumping on the children isn't. This will just confuse the dog. Try to discourage this behavior by telling the dog "Down!" every time she jumps up. Give her a treat when she first responds and every time after until you just need to use the words.

There are lots of simple ways that you can train your dog. These are just a few. There's no need to tolerate bad habits in your dog as they can be so easily remedied. Oh, and never pay heed to the phrase "You can't teach on old dog new tricks", you can - it's never too late.

Article By Andrew Strachan. Find lots more information about dog training and different types of dogs at http://www.types-of-dogs.com Lots of help and advice too.

How Your Dog Should Behave With Your Child and Vice Versa

If you have a dog, or dogs, and children you know how important it is to teach them the proper ways to deal with each other. You will need to teach your child how to correctly and gently pet the dog, and to not pull on or hit the dog. You will need to teach your dog how to deal with your children and the things that they can do. You need to teach both child and dog what is acceptable behavior.

Babies and children tend to pull on the dog's extremities, such as ears and tails, and hit the dog. Do teach your dog to accept your baby's gentle touch on all areas of her body. On the same note, teach your child that every dog has sensitive areas that he or she should not touch.

Teach your baby not to use his or her hands, toys or bottles to hit or swing at the dog. This can hurt the dog or make the dog defensive of the baby, increasing the chances of your dog nipping at or biting your baby. Also, do not allow your child to kick, kick at or step on the dog. This can lead to a dog that becomes fearful of feet, and could start biting at them when she sees a foot coming near her.

Teach Your Child the Proper Way to Treat Your Dog

Teach your child not to yell at the dog, but talk in a quiet, easy voice. Dogs can become very frightened when a little, unpredictable "thing" is around them. Teach your dog to relax and be calm when, and if, the baby or child does scream in her face.

Do not allow your child to chase the dog, as again, your dog can become scared of the child and become wary of being around him or her. Some dogs will not flee, but instead turn around and defend themselves, which could be as severe as biting.

Be very careful about your baby climbing on, or jumping on, your dog. Many dogs do not like this - would you? It is unfair to expect your dog to accept this behavior from your dog. If it does happen, keep your dog calm and take your child off the dog. Praise your dog if she behaved appropriately.

Teach Your Dog to Respect Your Child

Your dog needs to respect your child, as he respects you (hopefully!). Having your child interact with your dog in different situations will allow this to happen.

Have your child work basic obedience with your dog

This will help your dog to learn to listen and respect your child. Even if your child speaks baby gibberish, you can teach your dog to understand.

Reinforce the commands by saying them as you have your child give the same command. Surprisingly, your dog will soon be able to understand the baby talk! When my children started speaking, I had them give my dogs commands daily. At first my dogs looked at me as though I had three heads because they did not understand what my babies were trying to tell them. As I reinforced the commands, my dogs learned the baby talk and soon were listening to my children! My children thought it was great, and the dogs learned to respect and listen to them. To this day I still have my kids practice obedience with my dogs so that neither my dogs or kids lose those skills.

Teach your Child how to give treats to your dog

Teach your baby how to give treats to your dog the right way, and in turn teach your dog the proper way to take treats from your child. Make sure that you are always present when doing this. Hold the hand of your child that has the treat in it to ensure the safe and gentle taking of the treat by your dog. Make sure that your child has the treat in his or her open hand and make the dog lick the treat off the hand versus using teeth to take the treat. Now is the time to bring the "gentle" command into play. As with everything that your dog does well, praise him when he does take the treat gently, so that he will continue to do so in the future because he knows what is expected.

Dogs and Children Need to Learn to Play Together and Become Friends

Teaching your dog and child to play together is another important piece of the puzzle. Most children delight in playing with a dog, and dogs inherently love to play! Fetch is probably the easiest game to have the two play together, especially if your dog already fetches. Even if the ball, or toy, only goes a foot, your dog will happily retrieve and bring it back. This makes the child happy too! If you teach your child how to work basic commands into the game it becomes easier for your dog to accept direction from your child. Do not allow your child to play tug with your dog as children are generally not strong enough to control the game and could very easily get hurt. Fetch, hide and seek, and "find it" games (where you hide treats and have the dog search for them - with help at first) are great games for children to play with dogs.

Your Child Should Have Responsibilities Relating to Your Dog

Allowing your children to share the responsibilities of caring for the dog creates respect in both parties. The dog learns to care for and appreciate the children for taking care of him. The children learn responsibility and all that goes into having a pet. Taking walks with you and your dog (even allowing the child to hold onto part of the leash - with you really controlling the leash), feeding, and playing with the dog are duties your children can take part in and can enjoy very much. My children fight over who gets to hold the leashes on walks, who gets to throw the ball during fetch, and who gets to feed the dogs. They are learning to take turns with all of the activities, and to care for the dogs, so it is a win-win situation in my household!

A WARNING...

The Dreaded Doggie Dish

You can teach your dog to accept your child near her food bowl by having your child give high value treats in her empty dish. Make sure that you are supervising and right in between the dog and child to avoid any potential problems. This does not mean, however, that you should allow your children too close while your dog is eating. It can be very stressful for your dog to have to worry about the child stealing her food! She could become protective over her bowl and possibly bite or nip if the child gets too close. After awhile, your dog should come to accept your child around while she is eating if you follow the above steps, but I cannot stress enough how potentially dangerous this situation can be!

Let Sleeping Dogs Lie

It is very important to let your dog eat and sleep in peace, away from the child. Teach your child not to torment or get too close to the dog when she is eating or sleeping.

The old saying, "let sleeping dogs lie" is very important, and oh so true! A sleeping dog that is startled awake could accidentally bite or jump on a child. Teach your child to leave your dog alone when she is sleeping so that your dog is allowed peace and quiet, and your child remains unharmed. Dogs need down-time just like people do. You can also give your dog a favorite chew toy or special bone to chew somewhere out of reach of the child. This will ensure that the dog does not have to stress that the child will take it and bite or nip at the child.

Be kind to your dog!

A Final Word...

Always remember that no matter how well-behaved your dog is, he or she is still a dog. Dogs are animals and can be unpredictable at times. They have teeth and can bite, but hopefully they never will. They can jump and scratch, whether it is on purpose or not. Please do not leave your baby or child alone with your dog - EVER! Things can unexpectedly happen that could cause injury and heartache, so please always be careful and mindful when it comes to your dog and child. It is always best to err on the side of caution!

Our lives can be enriched by our dogs beyond belief, just as they can be with raising children. It is a challenging task to have babies and dogs, but it is well worth it. If you follow this article, you should have a smooth transition and life will be wonderful. If you choose to ignore the advice I have given, I cannot say what will happen in your house. You may never have any problems, but chances are, sooner or later, something will crop up.

Good luck, and I hope that your life can be as rich and fulfilling as mine has been and continues to be!

Mandy Makein is an author and dog trainer. For free dog training report visit http://www.stopdogjump.com/

(c) Copyright Mandy Makein 2010. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.

Is A Premium Dog Food Really That Much Better For Your Dog?

==========The Scoop on Premium Dog Food========
If you're interested in premium dog food, then I probably don't have to tell you about the importance of diet in keeping your dog active and healthy. You already know you want something better than "average" for your furry friend.
But how much do you really know about what's in a premium food and what your particular pet's needs are? I'm no veterinarian but I do know a thing or two about health and nutrition. (As a family dentist who practiced for twenty years, I saw first hand the effects of poor dietary habits on human health -- and particularly on human teeth!!).
Like you, your dog has to deal with the effects of stress, age, exertion, a polluted environment, and foods grown in nutrient-depleted soils. Unlike you, he has to get practically all of his nutrition from a single food. Sure, you may give him a few treats or the occasional table scrap (not too many I hope!), but otherwise he's eating out of the same bag or can day in and day out. You want him to get complete nutrition out of that one food.
===========Complete Nutrition?===============
Even the experts seem to disagree on exactly what complete nutrition is. Maybe this explains why there are so many formulas for premium dog food out there. There's one thing they do agree on, though: premium dog food is better for your pet than economy and grocery store brands. Although you'll pay more, it usually holds true that you get what you pay for.
Experts also agree that, because premium foods are more nutritionally dense and easier to digest, your dog won't need to eat as much. One study even concluded that if you fed your dog the recommended amounts on each package, you'd end up saving money on the premium formulas. That's because your dog needs to eat a lot less of it. (You'll save on pooper scoopers too!)
Another way to know if your dog is getting a proper diet is simply to observe him. Are his eyes bright, his coat silky and shiny, and his skin free from dryness and itching? Is he at a healthy weight? How about his energy level? This may vary from one animal to another, but as you get to know yours, you'll know when your dog isn't feeling up to par.
Of course, any persistent health problems should be looked into by your vet, and the same goes for any special dietary needs. But in general you'll know if your friend is doing well on the diet you're feeding him. If you see signs that he isn't, try a different formula or another brand of premium dog food.
Introduce new foods gradually, especially if you have a picky eater. And while we're on that subject, it's always nice if your dog enjoys eating his food. This has a lot less to do with taste than it does with smell. Dogs have fewer taste buds than we do, but about 40 times as many scent receptors. So make sure he eats with gusto, and doesn't just pick at his food.
Here are some basic guidelines you can follow:
============Essential Nutrients=============
Every dog needs the right amounts of proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water. Your dog must have all these in correct proportions to stay healthy. Needs vary with life stage, breed and activity level. Dog food companies make premium dog food for all life stages, from puppy to senior. An average adult dog needs a daily intake of about five ounces for every ten pounds of weight, with essential nutrients in the following proportions:
Protein --23% of total intake
Fats --5% of total intake
Carbohydrates --65% of total intake
Additional vitamins and minerals your dog needs are: Vitamins A, D, E, B-complex, Niacin, Biotin, Folic Acid, Choline, and Pantothenic Acid; Calcium, Phosphorus, Potassium, Sodium Chloride, Magnesium, Iron, Copper, Manganese, Zinc, Iodine, and Selenium.
It's generally agreed that dogs do better on a protein source that's primarily meat rather than soybeans and grains. Check the label. All US food labels must list ingredients in order of their quantity. If meat by-products are listed, they should come after the real meat, not before it. Meat by products are an inferior source of protein, and are basically what remains after the good quality meat has been removed. "Crude protein" can be a similarly poor source, since it may include parts of the animal that can't even be digested or absorbed by the average dog (hair, beaks, etc.).
Omega fatty acids are a hot topic in human nutrition these days, and have been found to be just as important in the canine diet. Both should be present, and in the right ratio. Most premium dog food companies have done the research on this and adjusted the ratios, but as usual, ask your vet if your uncertain.
===========Wet vs. Dry============
You can buy premium dog food in just about any form, but which one is best? Again, most experts seem to agree. Dry food is less likely to allow plaque to accumulate on the teeth, less likely to harbor bacteria if left out too long, and results in firmer, more compact stools. Semi-moist foods are convenient but for some reason (I'm not sure what) don't offer the same nutritional benefits as premium kibble or canned foods.
That said, I have also heard arguments suggesting that a diet of exclusively dry food can be a strain on a dog's kidneys. So, to be on the safe side, check with your vet.
===========Life Stages============
Puppies need more calories and essential nutrients than adult dogs. They need up to twice as many calories per ounce of body weight and should get 25% to 30% of their energy from protein depending on the breed.
Most premium dog food brands take this into account in their puppy formulas, but it doesn't hurt to check the label. By six to eight weeks of age a puppy should be fully weaned and eating his dry food consistently. After that, different breeds reach their mature weight at different rates, by anywhere from 9 months to 24 months old. So it's hard to give an age or weight by which you should take your pet off puppy food. Again, your vet can help out here.
Also, remember not to try to "rush" the growing process by overfeeding. If she grows too fast, a dog can develop bone growth diseases. A puppy should get three to four meals a day because he's growing fast but still has a small tummy, but don't overdo it with portions size.
Adult dogs need to eat according to their size and energy requirements and should be fed two meals a day. This is frequently referred to by the premium dog food companies as a "maintenance diet".
Unlike cats, dogs are not strictly meat eaters. In fact, a dog is more like an omnivore and will eat just about anything, whether it's good for him or not! A certain amount of vegetable matter is part of a dog's natural diet. Dogs love vegetables such as broccoli, carrots, zucchini, peas, and beans, and fruits such as bananas, apples, and melon. These make great low-calorie treats, too!
One thing you should never feed your dog is chocolate--it contains a chemical called theobromine which is toxic to dogs.
Senior dogs need a premium dog food that will help head off and manage the effects of aging. Since different breeds vary so much, it's hard to give an age by which you should switch to a senior diet. The ASPCA recommends using weight as a guideline, and offers the following:

Small breeds or dogs weighing less than 20 pounds:7 years of age
Medium breeds or dogs weighing 21 to 50 pounds:7 years of age
Large breeds or dogs weighing 51 to 90 pounds:6 years of age
Giant breeds or dogs weighing 91 pounds or more:5 years of age

The ASPCA recommends that you begin dealing with the symptoms of old age before they're obvious. Just like us, dogs will begin to accumulate more body fat as they age even as they consume fewer calories. (At least we're not alone!). Muscle mass will tend to decrease, but this doesn't mean you should lower your older dog's protein intake. If anything, protein is more important than ever to help maintain muscle mass, so avoid senior dog food formulas with reduced protein.
One thing you will want to feed him less of is calories. Obesity is a real problem with adult dogs, and many owners don't even realize their dog is overweight. Aside from portion size and calorie content, one way to avoid an overweight dog is to resist giving him table scraps. Most human food isn't good for your dog.
===========How Much to Feed============
How's your dog's weight? You should be able to feel your dog's backbone and ribs with light finger pressure, but not actually see them. If you have to "dig" to find them, your dog is overweight and if you can actually see her ribs, she's underweight.
If you're not sure how much to feed, you'll love the interactive Dog Food Calculator on PetsMart's home page! It's the result of considerable research that has been published in scientific journals and accepted by industry experts. You can determine the right amount of food to feed your dog and find out how long that 40-lb bag will last!
===========Supplements============
If you're all ready feeding a nutritionally complete premium dog food, do you still need supplements? This is another hotly debated topic. As a rule, it seems that most dogs do just fine without supplements. For certain dogs and certain conditions supplements can make a differenced. For example, a dog who isn't thriving and there's no other medical explanation for it might improve with supplements. Or, dogs with certain skin conditions have been known to improve on supplements. Since there's a danger of doing more harm than good, you should definitely discuss supplements with your vet.
If you do decide to use one, pick one that's made from natural sources and is designed as a multivitamin formulated specifically for dogs. That way she'll get everything in the right amounts and ratios. Add it to the diet twice weekly so you won't overwhelm or suppress your dog's own internal regulating mechanisms.
=======Special Diets==========
There are many reasons why a dog might be put on a special diet. Some dogs are very sensitive to certain ingredients in commercial dog foods. Even if you're feeding her the best of premium dog food, if your dog isn't thriving, it's possible her diet is a problem for her. Owners have resorted to alternative diets -- holistic, raw foods, even kosher -- to optimize their pet's health. Some choose these diets simply because they believe they're better, not because their dog is having any issues.
We'll discuss special diets in a future article. For now, I hope you've gained some useful insights about the benefits of premium dog food over and above economy brands.







Carolyn Schweitzer. Lifelong dog-lover, power-shopper, and family dentist Carolyn Schweitzer is owner and editor of DevotedToDogs.org where she offers information on a wide range of topics near and dear to a dog owner's heart.
Visit the site to learn about human foods that are hazardous to your dogs health
You can reach Carolyn by email at carolyn@netbrainer.com.

The Last Article You'll Ever Need to Read About Dog Barking - Causes and Cures

If you're a dog owner and have a "world class" barker in the house, you may already know the stress of shattered quiet or dealing with unhappy neighbors.

Dogs always bark for a reason. Studies have even shown that different barks express different emotions (though a few breeds, like the poodle and the American Staffordshire Terrier, appear limited in their vocal repertory). The more high-pitched, atonal and repetitive the bark, the more indicative it is of a dog under stress.

A recent study of 84 dogs from nine breeds, including Poodles, Weimaraners, American Staffordshire Terriers, German Shepherds, Alaskan Malamutes, Bull Terriers and Muensterlaenders, recorded as many as a dozen variations of some types of barking among the dogs. Subtle variations even corresponded to "dialects" which were used by the dogs in identical situations at different times.

Although there is no difference in the percentage of excessive barkers between males and females, males tend to bark less once neutered because they're less territorial. There's also a breed difference in barkers; Many Beagles, Terriers, and some herding breeds tend to bark more - not surprising, since this is one of the characteristics for which they were bred.

Virtually all canine behavioral experts agree that the key to solving the problem of excessive barking is to understand what's causing it. To solve problem barking, you'll need some patience and understanding, but teaching your barker a couple of very basic obedience commands will help a lot, too.

Oddly enough, teaching your dog to bark on command is a good way to teach them also how to stop. By learning when barking is desirable, they also learn what your word is for when to stop.

What doesn't work:

- Shouting "No" louder than the dog only makes things worse since the dog perceives this as YOU barking, too. It's not a long term solution;

- Hugging or talking soothingly to the dog when barking is a "no no" because the dog comes to believe that there IS something of which to be concerned. Coddling simply reinforces barking.

- Striking the dog doesn't address the cause of your dog's barking. If your dog is barking out of anxiety, hitting her only adds betrayal to the list of what worries her since she looks to you for guidance, not pain.

- Throwing items AT the dog. This is a good way to ruin a show dog and also introduces another reason for the dog to bark. Throwing can-filled pennies is a method of distraction, but it needs to be done correctly. Keep reading.

- Crating or confining the dog to a small space for hours and hours. This alone can cause barking.

The leading causes of barking?

Territorial/Protective Behavior

Startled or Fear Barking

Attention-Seeking or boredom

Self-identification

Play/Excitement

Loneliness or Separation Anxiety

Let's explore the cause and remedies for barking a bit more fully.

Separation or Loneliness Anxiety: This is probably the leading cause of excessive barking; It can also be the most difficult to determine since it typically occurs when a dog's owner is gone. Unless the owner receives a complaint, they many never know they have a problem barker. Complicating the matter is trying to determine when barking IS excessive. Some neighbors have a hair trigger when it comes to barking and even a few normal "woofs" is enough to generate a complaint. Be suspicious of your dog if s/he displays behaviors that reflect a strong attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, greeting you frantically, or overreacting anxiously whenever you prepare to leave.

Anxiety barking becomes self-reinforcing as a dog becomes more stimulated and anxious. The more anxious the dog, the higher in pitch the bark. These barks are especially audible to neighbors.

Separation anxiety barking can be remedied with counter-conditioning, desensitization and teaching the dog how to relax. Commanding the dog to "lie down," for instance, is handy because reclining dogs don't bark as vigorously when lying down.

The best way to desensitize a dog to your leaving is to run frequent "drills." Start out by pretending to leave the house by changing your habits. Most of us have predictable patterns of behavior before leaving the house and this contributes to the dog becoming anxious. If, for example, the last thing you do before leaving the house is to pick up car keys, DON'T pick up the car keys last, put your shoes on last instead - and then don't leave. Go to the couch and read a book; Pick up the phone and pretend to talk. If you play music but only on weekends when you are home, turn it on during your workdays. As hard as it may be, set your alarm on weekends, get up, but stay home. Continue changes in routine until your dog pays no attention to your cues anymore. It is also very important to not give your dog a lot of attention when you leave.

Work your way up to actually leaving the dog for a very short time, say, a minute or two. Before the dog starts getting nervous and barking, come back into the house. You're not rewarding barking, you're rewarding relaxation and silence. Gradually extend the time you're gone, and return before the dog gets anxious. If your dog is anxious even if you leave the room, then you will need to start by just taking several steps away from her while she remains relaxed. You cannot go too slowly during this process - but you can go too fast.

If you suspect your dog is lonely, hire a pet sitter or dog walker, or look into a "doggie day care center or play group," increasingly attractive and practical options that's a "win win" for all involved. You can expect to pay up to $25 a day, but it's far cheaper than fines or constant complaints from the neighbors. To find a doggie day care center or "play group" for your dog, consult your veterinarian, local training facility or check out the phone book. High end pet shops also typically know who in the area offers pet sitting or play group options and often carrying their business cards.

Always remember that your dog is NOT punishing you, nor is he enjoying himself when he's barking because he's lonely or anxious. Think about how you feel when you're truly overwrought about something and you'll get an idea of how your dog feels. Be patient and understanding as you help your dog work through this - and keep communication open with disgruntled neighbors to show that you ARE working on the situation. Dog pounds are filled with confused and bewildered dogs who've been dumped there because their owners were either forced to give them up because of barking, or because they failed to work with the dog's problem.

Barking for Attention Seeking or boredom: Dogs of any age quickly learn that humans pay attention to their barking. It doesn't matter if we're furious with them or that we've just shouted "NO!" Negative attention is still attention and reinforces barking. Hard as it may be, it's best to ignore this type of barking which can be like a persistent yap that turns into a howl. Sometimes, the use of a remote correction is helpful in controlling this type of barking: Coins in an empty soda can be tossed away from the dog which will distract him from barking. Timing is important and at this point, give the dog a substitute for barking such as a treat, a toy or a walk. Just make sure she stops barking before you give the substitute or the dog will perceive it as a reward for barking.

If the dog is left alone a lot, has little chance to interact with you, has an environment devoid of companions or toys, or is a dog under three years old, the dog is probably barking out of boredom. Increase the dog's "people time" by taking walks, playing fetch or Frisbee®, teaching a few commands, attending an agility class, and providing safe, interesting toys to keep the dog busy. Kong®-type toys filled with peanut butter or broken up dog biscuits... busy-box toys... Treat Dispensing Balls, these are excellent choice. Rotating the toys will make them seem new and interesting, and hiding different toys around the dog's environment also helps.

Self-identification barkers can be difficult to control, especially in a household of multiple dogs and PARTICULARLY if the dogs are kept outside. There's usually an instigator dog and other dogs tend to join in. This is the barking your dog does when s/he hears other dogs barking. It can be controlled by using obedience and relaxation methods, and by offering substitute behavior like playing with a toy. If the sound of other dogs barking gets your dog to start, you can teach her how to respond appropriately by visiting web sites where you can select various dog barks for your dog to hear. Just do a Google search on "dog barking audio." When your dog hears the computer barking and he starts barking, use the opportunity to teach your dog how to respond to by saying, "Enough." The very second your dog stops - if only to draw breath for the next bark - pop a treat in his mouth and gush, "Good boy!" Repeat. Do this daily and be sure to do it outside under "real" circumstances, as well.

Territorial Alert and Warning barks are used to warn off intruders, be they man or beast. These warning barks are low in pitch, can be combined with growls - and if you've even heard your dog make this sound, you know that it's unlike any other sound your dog makes. Most of us appreciate this canine "early warning system" and think it's appropriate to reward with a "What is it, girl?" or "What do you hear, fella?"

If and when no intruder appears, give the dog the command, "Enough" to show that you believe the alarm has passed and that it's okay to stop vocalizing. If the dog doesn't stop this menacing sound, however, believe the dog.

Territorial barks become problematic when leveled at joggers, delivery people or kids on bicycles and can happen during walks or from the dog's own backyard. The dog's barking is reinforced by the fact that these people eventually leave, and now the dog thinks HE made the intruders go away with his barking. To stop this kind of barking, you need to teach the dog to respond to a command or signal to stop.There are a couple of ways to do this:

One way is to start by making a noise to distract the dog from barking. AS SOON as the dog stops, say, "enough" and immediately reward the dog either with praise or a treat. Don't give the reward until the barking stops or the dog will think that it is being rewarded for barking, not for stopping the barking.

Another approach is this one: When your dog begins to bark at a passerby, allow two or three barks, then say "enough" and interrupt the barking by squirting water into her mouth with a spray bottle or squirt gun. The surprise should cause her to stop barking, if only for a moment. In that moment, and while she's quiet, say "Good Dog!" in a happy voice and pop a treat into her mouth. The squirt isn't meant to punish her but to surprise her into quieting so you can reward her.

Play/excitement barks are often short and sharp. These barks are common if the dog gets too excited with the game whether it's with you or another dog. When the barking is excessive, it's best to stop the play, let the dog(s) calm down, and only allow play to resume when the barking stops. if it starts up again, repeat the process. If it STILL continues, it's time for a substitute activity.In time the dog(s) will learn to play with their "inside" voice.

Startled or Fear barking happens when the dog is faced with an unfamiliar or sudden sound or movement - like a car pulling into the driveway, or thunder. Your dog's posture indicates fear: ears back, tail held low...and his barks are short and crisp. This type of barking responds well to desensitivity training. In essence, you expose the dog to the sounds that consistently startle him. Start by recording the sound, like thunder, fire crackers, motorcycles,etc, or buy a recording of the sound. Play the sound to the dog very softly so that your dog will stay relaxed when hearing it. If she remains quiet, then reward her. Over days and weeks, gradually increase the volume until she is no longer startled into barking when she hears it.

Ultimately, if nothing works to solve your dog's excessive barking behavior, you just may have a pathologic barker - a dog who barks in an obsessive-compulsive manner over inappropriate things (a leaf falling) or becomes hyper-excited and aggressive with the approach of people or other dogs. These dogs need more serious behavior modification and a team-approach is highly recommended.

The team can be family members, dog friends, or anyone who is willing to work with the dog as long as they know to use the same commands in the same way as all the other team members. The services of a behavior modification expert can be highly useful in this scenario, as can a veterinarian who might recommend medication during the early going. We view medication as a last resort, but if faced with neighbors who are threatening to take you to court, your options are few.

Speaking of options, there are other remedies for barking and we'd be remiss in not mentioning them, though we believe they don't attack the root of problem barking: the cause. These options include bark collars and de-barking.

Bark collars work by producing a response to barking that the dog notices and presumably doesn't like. Be aware, however, that for some hard core barkers, they would rather bark and be punished than not bark at all.

Citronella collars spray citrus scent or mist around the dog's muzzle when the dog barks. Some collars make a sound before spraying as an additional deterrent. In theory, dogs aren't supposed to like this smell, but we've heard of dogs who quite liked it. One positive aspect to a citrus collar is that it can alert you to the fact that your dog was barking while you were gone since the citrus smell still lingers in the air;

Sonic/ultrasonic/vibration collars produce an allegedly inaudible note that over times, becomes annoying enough to the dog to deter barking.

Electrical shock collars sting or shock the dog when the dog barks. We don't like them. Not only do we prefer positive reinforcement, but we also find that shock collars don't distinguish between normal barking and problematic barking. Ultimately, the collar punishes the dog for being a dog. We also don't like the fact that not all collars have a failsafe mechanism that shuts off after a certain time to prevent ongoing operation. Imagine if the dog get out of the yard or is lost and is stuck in the collar until the battery dies.

Combination collars use both sound and spray together, while escalation collars use low levels of output that increase gradually until the barking stops. Escalation devices are a bit more "sporting" in that they "reward" the dog for stopping sooner and give the dog a chance to learn by inhibiting barking before a greater response is dispensed.

Debarking (which is illegal in the UK) is intended to lower the volume of a dog's bark by surgically reducing tissue in the dog's vocal chords. Some vets use a punch to remove tissue, others make cuts, while still others use a laser. The dog can still bark but sounds "hoarse.' In some dogs, scar tissue can form and the dog will bark louder than when first debarked. This is a hotly debated topic in some circles, particularly in light of a move around the country by animal rights groups to outlaw debarking. Some people find the sound of a debarked dog more annoying than an actual bark, others find it to be their only option when faced with a pathological barker, neighbors threatening civil action and animal control breathing down their neck.

We don't always get perfect dogs, but I haven't met one yet who wasn't worth the effort, time and patience.

S.E.Szeremy is a writer and creator of KnobNots.com [http://knobnots.com/] (the Friendly Alternative to Beware of Pet) and BabyKnobNots.com [http://www.babyknobnots.com/] (Keep the Peace So Baby Can Sleep). She's been an owner/handler/breeder of Pulik since 1978.

Why Does Your Dog Completely Ignore You Around Dogs?

Have you ever wondered what "exactly" could be the reason why does your dog bark, pull on the leash, lunge, growl, attack, shiver, whimper, shy away or is dying to play when faced with other dogs that he is not familiar with?
Here are all the reasons:
o You don't have the right timing, right technique, or the right training tool that can get your dog under your complete control. If a certain tool stops working or doesn't even seem to faze your dog anymore, try another one. Use what works!
o You never thought socializing your dog with other dogs was really important or even possible. So you kept putting it off and now you finally admit that this has become a serious issue!
o You have been avoiding any dog you came across by changing routes on your walks, or by walking your dog really late at night or super early in the morning.
o Your training foundation is weak or even worse, you have no foundation. Meaning, your dog doesn't even listen to you that well in private or in your home. So why would he all of sudden behave like a perfect angel around dogs that he doesn't know or doesn't feel comfortable with?
o Your dog USED to be friendly around dogs, but you slacked off on being involved on dog activities, daily walks, etc. And now, all of sudden your dog doesn't know exactly how to behave around dogs he hasn't met before.
o Your dog, or perhaps the other dog, isn't spayed/neutered and they are dying to get it on and prove themselves. Jealousy also causes dogs to act aggressive toward one another.
o Your dog whimpers to trick you into thinking that all it wants to do is play, and when you get close to the other dog, all of sudden it charges for the kill. Very sneaky!
o You keep on patting your dog in an attempt to calm her down and by saying, "It's OK. It's okaaaaaaay. Nooooo...seeeee.... It's a nice doggie." But this doesn't send the right message. In fact by doing so, you are "encouraging" your dog to keep on acting aggressively. This might work on some humans, but it never works on dogs. So do not pat or keep on massaging your dog while she is constantly lunging and growling at other dogs. This translates to: "Go ahead. Kill 'em." Even if you say "NO" in between, you are still not being crystal clear with your message.
o You misread your dog's or other dogs' body language. Sometimes when owners hold the leash tightly, this makes the dogs seem bigger, more tense, nervous, dominant and sometimes even a bit aggressive. Often you notice an owner's dog is completely relaxed, yet the owner acts scared and desperately tries to pull the dog close to her. This makes the dog appear taller, more tense, with his head up and chest out, which reads a very confrontational gesture to other dogs. So please don't wrap the leash around your hand three times by anticipating a dogfight.
o Your dog always lunges and attacks other dogs and doesn't really know how to behave. Like a barbarian, it's totally natural to him to act like a maniac. Basically your dog is thinking, "It doesn't really matter if the other dog is small, big, black, white, friendly or aggressive. I always lose it when I see other dogs. It's fun and it keeps me alive. I have that spice in me. Rrrrrruf!"
o You have a poor attitude and might even be prejudiced or scared of certain breeds. And guess what? Dogs never miss this and will try to protect you or at least try to scare the other dog. Maybe you hate certain breeds and your dog or the other dogs sense it from your energy, body language, or the fact that you totally changed direction, walked on the other side of the street, or picked up your small dog, hiding him from the rest of the world.
o Your dog never lost a dog fight in his entire life and always managed to scare, bully and lunge at dogs and actually get away with it. He probably sees himself as undefeated. The bigger the other dog, the more of a challenge; the bigger the fight, the better the pay per view.
o Your dog has been attacked by a dog in the past and got injured badly which resulted in him losing trust and confidence in you. You see, when you couldn't protect your dog from another dog attacking it, your poor dog had to find a way to protect himself. So now it anticipates another dog attack. This is why now he acts tough to scare the other dogs away. Can you blame him?
o Certain dogs provoke your dog more than others. See if you can find any pattern. Is your dog getting aggressive more toward males, females, puppies, adults, small dogs, black dogs, white dogs, fluffy dogs with floppy ears, pointy eared dogs, or even dogs that are not neutered. How about their owners? See if you notice any pattern with them. Some dogs love a challenge and prefer to fight the biggest dogs they can find. Some can't stand the small dogs' bark, and the fact that they are more spoiled than bigger dogs, and probably see them as Costco's appetizers.
o You've been letting your dog constantly mark on walks and thought it was normal and harmless. Now when your dog sees another dog in your neighborhood, he gets upset and tries to defend his territory. Just as your dog is overprotective of your house and your yard, he now thinks he owns the entire neighborhood just because he peed in every corner and every bush around it. How dare another dog walk in his hood!
o Something or even someone has irritated your dog, and now he decides to let it out on another dog. Be honest. Don't YOU pick on someone or at your loved ones when you aren't in a good mood? There you go. Your dog has learned it from you!
o Your dog is dying to play and interact with the other dog, but doesn't really know HOW. So he gets mad at you, mad at the other dog, at the leash, at your training tool and at the world! This could be a dog that once he manages to get loose, will lick the other dog to death to show his affection. Most dogs when they want to play, just pull on the leash, whimper, wag their tail happily, or maybe bark and whine in excitement. Not your dog. And it's really hard to know for sure exactly what he'll do, when he finally manages to get to the other dog. Will he play or go for the kill? And who's brave enough to find out?
o Your dog gets aggressive only when he is leashed. This might be another form of fear or frustration an attempt to keep the other dogs away. Or your dog notices that when he acts this way, you and the other dog owner walking another dog automatically pull back and don't let them get close to each other. Your dog knows that he can't do much while being leashed and his movements are limited. Therefore, it's much safer to act like a maniac. Basically each bark and growl translates to: "Let me go. Let me go, Mommy. I can take him. Let me show you what I can do. Let me put him on the news for you."
o Your dog is using your "other" dog as a shield/back up and knows it gives her more power when they attack as a pack. These dogs may walk politely one-on-one, but never as a team.
Conclusion: One of the biggest mistakes dog owners make is that they automatically assume that if their pooch loves some dogs, that it will remain dog-friendly with all breeds of dogs for the rest of his life. The truth is, some will, but most WON'T. You must be able to get your dog's full attention around friendly dogs, aggressive dogs, hyper dogs, small dogs, big dogs, fluffy dogs, and male or female dogs.
It's like a serial killer. They rarely go on a killing spree of their friends or relatives. It's always the poor complete strangers.







About the Author:
Kevin Salem is considered to be one of the brightest minds in the world of dog training and one of the pioneers in his field. It's hard to paint Kevin's image with the same brush as others, as his unique way of thinking, writing, and training philosophy truly makes him distinct.
If you are a fan of Cesar Millan, it will be difficult not to fall in love with Kevin's book. You'll finally be able to put an end to your dog's: Jumping Up, House-training, Play-biting, Barking, Leash Pulling, Destructiveness, Bolting Out, Over-protectiveness-- to complete off-leash response. 10 week old pups to 10 yr old adults, all breeds welcome. Kevin offers Doggie Boot Camp or House Calls Nationwide. Try his book, hire him in person, or see him put his eyebrow raising skills into action by visiting his award-winning web site: http://www.DogSecrets.com

Private Dog Parks: Can Be The Safe Choice

With an increasing number of serious incidents being reported at dog parks, I want to introduce the safe alternative that a well-run private dog park can provide. You will find that a properly designed and managed private dog park is a dramatically different experience than what you have read about or have witnessed in public parks. A privately run dog park can properly screen, staff and enforce park regulations. We do caution you that even with the information you will gain from this article, please know that any dog park is not regulated, so we encourage everyone to do their homework before visiting any dog park to ensure it is right for you and your dog.

The current trend is that community and homeowner associations are responding to community demand by setting aside a small plot of their land for a public dog park. Unfortunately these unmanaged and unregulated fenced areas often turn to that of neighbor confrontation, injury and horror, even with the best of intending groups and dog owners. Let's face it, without any oversight or enforcement, incidents are going to occur. Because I recognized the dangers in dog parks to the point that I would not take my dogs to one, I was motivated to devise the complex recipe for a safe off-leash dog park. Therefore; I conducted an in-depth investigation of many existing dog parks to establish the precise formula needed to create an off-leash haven.

I visited many, talked with visiting dog owners and observed many dog parks, both private and public. From my investigative travels and with my inherent understanding of dogs, I developed the complex operating matrix for a safe, off-leash dog park. Since that design work, we have successfully opened the first of our many private dog parks that thousands of qualifying dogs and their owners have already enjoyed. Our safety performance at the Royal Paws Dog Park & Doggie Day Camp facility speaks for itself with an impeccable safety performance and industry leading staffing ratio.

Benefits to your Dog with Off-Leash Exercise

The benefits to a dog at an off-leash dog park or any open area of land are immense. Unleashed running elevates heart rate, increases metabolism, improves gastrointestinal efficiency, and extends muscles and joints, all of which contributes to general overall fitness. It is known that maintaining such a healthy lifestyle for your loved dog will increase longevity and reduce risk of all associated conditions and diseases that obesity can cause. The experience for your dog in open field run is like no leashed exercise we can otherwise provide and the benefits will last a lifetime. When letting your dog run in an open field for exercise value, please consider that there are many risks to both you and your dog. You may be violating leash laws, the dog can track a scent or get lost, run into traffic or unwelcome neighborhood area, confront aggressive dogs or dangerous wildlife or foliage; which are all of the reasons as why I do not take my dogs to any open land without fences despite their excellent obedience.

In fenced area designated as a dog park, in addition to fitness improvement, your dog can enjoy benefits from the social interaction with the other dogs IF experienced without incident. The advantage for a dog that is well exercised and socialized benefit the dog, the owner and the community ONLY IF they have somehow avoided traumatic incident. Well exercised and socialized dogs are much less likely to contribute to neighborhood nuisances like chronic barking or showing aggression to other dogs.

If public parks could operate as well-run private dog park do, these benefits would be maintained. Unfortunately, many dog parks are not continuously regulated nor do they have the resources or knowledge to accurately screen the dogs; therefore, odds are that incidents will occur. Incidents like your dog being attacked by another dog or even being bullied by another dog can cause regression in social skills, cause behavioral issues, invoke fear aggression or cause physical injury or death. Following any incident at a public park, without a safe and regulated choice of private dog park that can best create positive experiences to overcome the impact of the incident, your dog may never physically or emotionally recover from the past trauma. The likelihood of good experiences for your dog in a well-managed private dog park is the reason that many loved dog owners everywhere chose private over non-regulated public parks.

Premise of a Safe Dog Park - It's Private

The advantages a private dog park has over any public dog park is the ability to secure more favorable, larger parcels of land, improved grounds maintenance, set dog health requirements, enforceable park rules, screening of appropriate tempered dogs and third party intervention. Beware though and do your homework about any private dog park you intend to visit. Just because they can do all of the above does not mean that they do! While it is integral that the private dog park has the ability to control all of the above to make visits to a well-managed private dog park enjoyable, the most important to me are the health and temperament screening and ability of park staff to intervene.

If you have read the actual details in the recent headline grabbing horror stories of incidents in dog parks, they almost always are a result from a dog being in the park that should not be or from uneducated/erroneous decisions made by visiting dog owners. Both of these should not occur if your private dog park is consistent in managing and operating the facility for the safety and enjoyment of all. With private dog parks operating as a business, financial success is always a consideration. So turning away visiting dogs equates to lost revenue, so unless the park is focused exclusively on maintaining a safe environment for all, a private park that is short-term financially driven can pose the same risks that a public park does.

The third party oversight ability of park staff to intervene is required to eliminate personality clashes and biased evaluation of situations and/or dog's behavior. So when the experienced screener determines the dog lacks the temperament so he/she can play with others, it is the park staff's responsibility to deal with the disappointed dog owner. Same intervention by park staff goes in the event a visiting dog owner does not abide by park rules or a dog plays too rough or violations of any other park code of behavior. You can imagine these discussions are difficult; however, by park staff entertaining such discussions it eliminates any personal intervention by visiting dog owners.

Telling a dog owner that their dog is not allowed or can no longer come to the park until troublesome behavior is removed is always difficult. However, it is critical that the staff of the private dog park you are intending to visit has the proper screening system, the diligence to comply and financial ability to effectively turn away the revenue for dogs that do not appear to be capable of socially interacting at such level to keep the park safe for all.

As important to the screening is the park's development and maintenance of expertly developed park rules. To the novice dog owner, many of the park rules appear to be too cumbersome and detailed. The reality is that each rule of a well-run dog park is well thought through and derived from merit by an expert in dog behavior. Compliance to all of the rules is key to the safe enjoyment of the park by all. For example, the toy aggression of a dog or rough play can within seconds turn into a dog fight even with the best of mannered & socialized dogs. Without such detailed rules and the full oversight to insure they are all followed, the private dog park could turn into mayhem.

Dog Park Management of Sizes and Breeds

For the safety of all, we highly recommend separating small dogs from large, excluding entrance to a few breeds, requiring males be neutered unless under strict command and requiring that dogs be at least four months old to enjoy the park. What we hear the most from small dog owners is that they want their small dogs to be able to play in the designated big dog area because "they like to play with big dogs". Although the small dogs may have enjoyed past experiences playing with a large dog of neighbor or friend, the risk remain of physical injury to the small dogs if they are allowed in the same area as big dogs. It is my opinion each size should have designated areas to create safe play for all. Thus, we recommend that when investigating which dog park is right for you, this should be part of consistent operations.

Let me first say I do not believe in stereotyping any particular breed for temperament. However, due to instinctual drive levels, size and bite capacity, there are some breeds that I believe should be prohibited from entry to an off-leash park and some that should have elevated entrance criteria. Pit bulls, not specifically because of temperament but rather from jaw force/releasability should be forbidden from the off-leash dog park. Although we have met some of the sweetest and well-socialized pit bulls, we do not allow them to visit our parks because the risk is so high of severe injury to another dog if they were to bite.

Chow Chows are another breed that unless have a lifetime of scalability or coming in as a young dog, do we rarely let into the park. Any of the other "working breed" dogs, including terriers, due to their breed characteristics, prey drive, protection dog status and/or sheer size should go through elevated entrance criteria. These types of dogs must meet entrance-required temperament, in addition must demonstrate clear owner command. Upon meeting entrance criteria, they undergo frequent evaluations for continued social ability and owner command. All other dogs must pass dog socialization evaluation and demonstrate basic obedience.

Many Responsibilities of the Dog Owner

Even with the best of run private dog parks, the dog owners retain a high level of responsibility upon park entrance while be willing to withstand the occasional park staff directive. They must carefully watch their dog, abide by all park rules, maintain the obedience skills of the dog and know their dog well enough to predict their dog's behavior. Knowing your dog's mood, watching it's posture and identifying or correcting any potential troublesome behaviors is critical so all can enjoy the park. Every dog will encounter occasions where they will meet another dog that they do not like or are uncomfortable around.

It is the best of private dog parks where entry requires command of your dog so that incidents of escalated aggression can be avoided when each dog owner carefully watches their dog and can command their dogs away from each and every situation. Incidents occur only when the dog owners are not vigilant in watching their dogs or do not understand their dog's behavior and the slightest of uncomfortable encounters prolongs to escalate into a dogfight. Again, each dog owner should understand their dog's postures, expressions and movement to be able to differentiate in off-leash situations when they are comfortable and when they are not. If the dog owner does not intuitively understand their dog, we recommend seeking the assistance of a professional dog trainer.

Safely Socializing Dogs Early Benefits Everyone

We believe that all dogs, when in receipt of proper health vaccination should be socialized in a safe environment to improve their ability throughout their life of all of the benefits an off-leash park can provide. Any puppy, following final adult vaccination booster should be introduced socially to other dogs, people, children and other distractions and a well-managed private dog park creates the perfect place. Puppies visiting a safe off-leash park will easily learn good behavior in the dog social structure and provide the dog owner the ability to enhance obedience training with distractions. Just as the benefits of teaching good manners to a dog early in their life are immense, so are the risks that behavior issues or dog aggression will occur in the event the early experiences are traumatic.

With puppies, we strongly encourage you thorough investigation on the park you are considering to take them to best create the opportunity for good experiences. We recommend you confirm that the park is well maintained, strictly managed and rules enforced. Taking the puppy to a private off-leash dog park will provide your dog a life-long of comfort around other dogs, people and children. However; even with the best of private dog parks, there are other distractions that you should have your puppy comfortable with, which is why we also recommend taking a puppy (when fully vaccinated) to busy shopping malls with diverse people and sounds, nature walks with children & bicycles and on-leash dog walking trails to learn on-leash manners.

Picking the Private Dog Park for You

While private dog parks are gaining in popularity because they may be the only choice for safe and enjoyable off-leash fun, enter with caution. If a dog park is "Private", it is operated as a business entity, but this does not guarantee it is safe for you and your dog. It is our recommendation that with any place you intend to take your dog, you first tour the facility. Inspect the fence and the grounds, as well as talk with some of the dog owners visiting to learn about their safety record and staffing. After touring, talk with the park staff about what is required to visit. If you do not have to show paperwork confirming vaccinations or they do not meet your dog and determine social ability with other dogs, we would recommend that you know there may be risks. As with any place that you take your dog, insure you have great command of your dog and you are comfortable with the park layout and your dog's social skills to lessen the chances of a possible incident with another dog.

Terri Malueg-Ray, President & Founder of many industry leading, innovative companies who is an international pet industry expert.

Terri L. Malueg-Ray is President and Founder of six-year-old company, Royal Paws Resort & Day Spa?, Ltd., one-year old company Royal Paws? Dog Park, LLC and founding partner of My Owner Has Gone To Heaven, LLC. Terri is known throughout the pet industry as a true innovator. She has created many premier products and services and most recently introduced her new line of gourmet pet meals, called Pet Tasties?. Terri?s background in engineering, chemistry and computer science provides her the ability to develop, design and execute the creation of Pet Tasties?, the only complete line of healthy, yet tasty brand of gourmet pet meals available in the market today. Following the design of Pet Tasties?, Terri utilized her leadership background to open the first pet restaurant in the Atlanta metro area and has made headlines nationwide. Most notably, on the reality hit TV show, Ambush Makeover, The Montel Williams Show, CNN, Jezebel Magazine, Atlanta Magazine.