Dog Training - 8 Ways to Cut Down on Behavior Problems

You've performed three of the most important tasks for a dog owner: decided if you were right for a dog, determined what dog was the best for you and taught your best friend some manners. That should be about it, right? Wrong!

You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It's important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don't, all of that training you've done so far will be for naught.

Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren't themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.

Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.

1. Don't forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don't provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:

- Don't let him pull on his leash.

- Don't put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.

- Don't let him get away with bad behavior.

- Always eat before he does.

- Don't chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.

- Don't allow him to bite anyone.

- Always go through doorways before him.

- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.

- Don't give him anything - attention, food, play - without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.

- Don't allow your dog on furniture without your permission.

- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.

When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!

2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn't practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don't give your dog purpose, he'll become bored and develop behavioral problems.

3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you've used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won't listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.

4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child - it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.

Dogs don't respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.

5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he's in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It's important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection

6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he's a puppy, as soon as possible if he's an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.

If you have an adult dog, don't worry. That old saying, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You'll learn the subtleties of your dog's behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an "only dog" how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.

Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:

- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for

recommendations.

- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.

- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.

- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.

- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you'll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.

- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn't always respond to the tried-and-true methods.

- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.

- Be sure to get a list of equipment you'll need to bring with you to your first class.

Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don't feed your dog before class - since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don't forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog's behavior.

7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.

8. Keep your dog's home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!

If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.

If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don't despair! There's nothing to say that you can't start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.

Some problems won't be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn't have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we'll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!

How to Choose a Dog Walker that's Right for Your Dog

If you are like most working Americans you are low on time and high on tasks. You might put in long hours at the office. This shortens the amount of time you spend engaging in dog walking with your best canine friend every day. Different dog breeds have different daily exercise requirements, so your pooch might need extensive dog walking or run in the middle of the day.
How can you take your dog walking and be at work at the same time? You can hire a dog walker to be your dog walking replacement while you are at work. Often times a dog walker is more then just a necessity because many dogs that have limited dog walking time become irritable. Dogs need to have daily exercise and human connection through dog walking.
Your dog may even act out by chewing up your couch and favorite pair of heels when you are gone. In some instances, a dog in need of consistent dog walking will show aggression. This lack of exercise has let excess energy build up.
Dog walking during the day is also necessary for many dogs because they simply can't go a long duration without going the bathroom. You may be at work for 12 hours and this can be too long for dogs to go without relieving themselves and/or having a snack. Therefore, daily dog walking can be a great benefit to many dogs.
We have established that daily dog walking by a dog walker is great idea. The question now is how do you choose a dog walker? There are many things to consider when you choose a dog walker. Your dog is a member of your family so you need to go through many of the same considerations that you would when hiring a babysitter for your children.
When hiring a babysitter for your children you normally look to family and friends for references. Do the same when you are looking for a dog walker. You can seek out references from friends that have dog walkers, your veterinarian, and dog groomer. They may know of individual dog walkers or dog walking services.
Take time to interview your dog walker. Do they have dog walking experience? Can you speak with any of their clients? Do they have a business license? Find this information and investigate it thoroughly. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog in the hands of someone that is unprofessional or may harm your dog.
Feeling comfortable with a dog walker's references is also necessary because you will need to give them a key to your home so they can pick up your pooch. They will enter your home for daily dog walking, so you must trust them like you would trust a babysitter.
You need to assess the services your dog walker has to offer. Will they provide special assistance to your dog especially if it is an older dog that may be blind or has arthritis? What types of care services will your dog walker provide in addition to dog walking? For example, will they also provide water and feed your dog? Will they then cleanup any dog waste? You need to understand the scope of services your dog walker is willing to provide.
There are few factors to think about with regards to the actual dog walking. Will the dog walker walk your dog solo or with a group of dogs? A group of dogs may satisfy your needs, but this limits the amount of personal attention your dog can receive. You might have to pay more for a solo walk, but it could be worth the additional cost to keep your pooch happy.
You also need to determine what time your dog walker will come each time, how many times per week, and the length of the dog walk. It is a good idea to find a dog walker that can work around your schedule. They may be a great dog walker, but if they are too busy then they may not be able to meet your needs.
Don't forget to bring your dog into the picture during the interview process. The dog walker needs to meet your dog. Observe how the dog walker interacts with your dog. Are they friendly? Does you dog appear to warm up to them immediately? If you have an opportunity, try to watch your dog walker interact with other dogs. Are they curt with dogs they aren't walking?
Once you do hire a dog walker, you need to monitor their performance during the first few weeks to determine whether they are the right dog walker for your pooch. How can you do this if you are at work? It's as easy as enlisting the help of your neighbor or anyone that will be in your neighborhood during the day. Have them observe the time of day your dog walker arrives and how they treat your dog during dog walking.
Don't forget to provide your dog walker with emergency contact information. Also inform them of any special needs your dog may have. Finding the right dog walker can keep both you and your pooch happy.







Visit the Dog Walking website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog books, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

Dog Parks: Pros and Cons

Dog Parks. What a great idea! Imagine being able to take your buddy to a big, open field and letting him or her safely play and run around with dozens of other dogs. What a great way to provide exercise, especially for those rambunctious, high-energy teenagers that often become destructive and "self-employed" at home when they have nothing else to do. How many of us have come home to torn sofa cushions, shredded plants, neighbors complaining about incessant barking, etc.?

Dog parks can provide a wonderful opportunity for your dog to learn appropriate dog-to-dog behavior with dogs of all ages, sizes and temperaments. In addition to all these benefits, dog parks often offer us humans a chance to get out of the house and spend some time socializing and meeting new friends.

Most people who take their dogs to dog parks are respectful, polite, responsible, and look out not only for their own dog, but for other people's dogs as well. After all, if one dog gets hurt, everyone is affected. And most dog parks are well maintained, clean and safe. With so many benefits to taking your dog to a dog park, are there any disadvantages?

Not a month goes by that I don't hear from one of my clients that his dog or his neighbor's dog was hurt at a dog park. And in 99% of the cases, it all had to do with the attitude of the human. A well-known actor (this is L.A. after-all) brought two of his dogs to a park and as soon as the dogs entered, they zeroed in on a Lab who was resting underneath a picnic table. Within seconds, cries and growls filled the air. People rushed to help the Lab who sustained multiple puncture wounds. When the actor finally arrived at the scene, he simply declared, "Hey, dogs are dogs, they were only playing."

On another occasion, a woman came directly from a rescue with her new 80 lb dog and wanted to see how he would behave around other dogs. The dog attacked a small, blind Pekinese and caused several thousands of dollars in medical care.

In other cases, dogs are hurt because of how they play: some dogs are much more physical than others, resulting in unintentional injuries. Others never learned appropriate dog etiquette because of the lack of proper socialization when they were young. As a result, their pushy behavior often results in misunderstandings that trigger fights.

In addition, not every dog likes to visit dog parks. Older dogs sometimes care less about being around other dogs and are perfectly content interacting only with their humans. Well-intentioned as some people are, they can facilitate problems because they fail to read their dog's body language, which is telling them, "Get me out of here!"

So what should you look for? Visit a park before you bring your dog. Talk to people. Safe parks all have one thing in common: a good park is one where people will not put up with aggressive dogs and they look out for one another. Make sure there is a separate area for small dogs. How clean is the park? Is water available? If you find yourself stepping over mounds of feces, it's a good bet that park isn't for you and your dog. See if the park has a ranger that oversees activities. This is rare but really says a lot about safety.

Once you've chosen a dog park, don't bring food or your dog's favorite toys as that often causes problems. Notice how other dogs are behaving and if play becomes to rowdy, interrupt it before a problem arises. If your dog seems fearful, leave the park.

Know your dog. If your dog displays aggression or fearfulness, don't take your dog to a dog park. You can work on behavioral problems with a trainer but in the meantime, you can take your dog for walks or jogs, play fetch, hide-and-go seek and "find-it."

There are wonderful dog parks out there that benefit both people and dogs. To find them, do a little investigation, use your good common sense, be responsible and keep a watchful eye. You and your dog can have a lot of fun!

Paul Owens is the author of ?The Dog Whisperer? DVD and the book, ?The Dog Whisperer, A Compassionate Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training?. He has been Certified by The Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Endorsed by the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors. Paul is the Director of Raise with Praise, Inc. Dog training. For more information, visit http://www.DogWhispererDVD.com

Dog Training Fundamentals - 5 Key Dog Behaviour Factors That Affect Training

Whether you already have experience of dog ownership, are a new dog owner or are about to be a dog owner, then training your dog is one of the most important aspects you need to consider. Likewise if you currently have a dog with behaviour problems, then dog training is essential.
However, knowing you need to train your dog and actually training your dog are two entirely different things. Just where do you start?
To successfully train your dog, you need to consider and understand some key facets of dog behaviour. Knowing and understanding these 5 facets will greatly improve your dog training.
1. The origins of dogs. Dogs are in essence descended from modern day wolves. While domestication has dampened or eliminated many traits, some key natural instincts still remain. Like wolves, dogs are pack animals. What does this mean?
Well, there are several traits that derive from being a pack animal. The important ones when it comes to training are dogs are naturally sociable, they are used to routine and they are used to a social structure (i.e. the famed alpha male).
As sociable animals dogs thrive on the interaction with other dogs. A dog does not consider you as a human but rather a funny looking dog. Therefore, dogs thrive on the interaction with you. Just like a wild wolf, rejected by the pack, if you starve a dog of this interaction, they will become unhappy and very agitated.
When it comes to training, you can use this to reward or punish your dog. Interacting with your dog (e.g. patting, encouraging/excited talk, etc) can be as much of a reward as treats of food. Similarly, ignoring your dog (e.g. turning your back, stern talk, putting them in another room, etc) can be a harsh punishment for a dog. Its definitely better than smacking them.
As with all animals (including humans), dogs thrive on routine. If they know what and when they are likely to be doing certain things, then they are relaxed and comfortable. They know what to expect and are not confused by ever changing circumstances.
Training should also stick to a routine. Decide when the best time of the day is best for you to train your dog and stick by that time as rigidly as possible. Your dog will soon get into a routine of expecting to be trained at say 3pm every day and will be prepared for when training time comes. If your dog is ready and expecting to be trained, then it goes without saying that they will actually train better.
Within a pack there is always the alpha male. The dog that leads the pack, protects the pack and ultimately ensures the pack is fed and survives. As mentioned, a dog sees you as a funny looking dog and not a human. To be a good dog owner you absolutely need to be the alpha male. How many nature programs have you seen where the alpha male is being challenged by one of the other would be alpha males? Likewise, your dog will be challenging you to be the alpha male - this is a natural instinct for them.
You must establish yourself as the alpha male from the beginning. Providing food, interaction, punishing bad behaviour, body and vocal language all go towards asserting yourself as the alpha male. If your dog does not consider you as the alpha male, then they will not listen or act on your training instructions.
2. A dog's memory. We all know that goldfish have short memories. However, you may be surprised to know that dogs also have short retention memories. If you could tell your dog something, it is likely that by the next day or a few hours later, they will have forgotten. On the other had (or paw) dogs do have incredibly good associated memory. This basically means that if your dog can associated something with what you tell it then it will likely remember what you told it for years to come.
For example if you told your dog (assuming you could speak doggy language) that the chocolate biscuits were in the cupboard your dog would probably forget this within a few hours. However, if you showed your dog where the chocolate biscuits were, repeating the words 'chocolate biscuits', every time you said 'chocolate biscuits' it would probably go straight to the cupboard. It may also search the cupboard every few hours for the rest of its life looking for the chocolate biscuits but that's not the point.
Therefore, when training your dog you need to associate the training topic with something. For example: if you are teaching your dog to sit. If you associate the word 'sit' by getting your dog to physically sit and then giving them a reward. Repeat this a few times and soon your dog will associate your command 'sit' with it physically sitting and then getting a reward. The difficult bit is disassociating the reward - ask yourself why almost every dog will naturally sit when you have food in your hand?
3. Doggy language. Despite comments above, we cannot speak doggy language and dogs cannot speak our language. This is important when it comes to training. You have to choose words for commands that both you and your dog will remember. Be careful not to choose very common words or else your dog will be easily confused when this word keeps appearing within the middle of a sentence. A common word often used in training dogs is 'come'. For this example, it may be better to use a slang version or combine 'come here' into a single short word.
The important thing is that when you decide on a word for a command to stick with it and be consistent, otherwise your dog will become confused.
I know it can be difficult, especially if you come home to your new TV pulled off the cabinet, to always use pre-selected words when talking to your dog. Your dog does not speak human language and will only know what those few words you have trained it with are (and the tone you have used). So if you start using other words or different tones your dog will not understand.
For example: imagine someone speaking to you in a foreign language asking for directions to the city hall. You can't understand a word they are saying yet they get more and more frustrated, talking in a louder and quicker language. Is it your fault you can't understand them? Why are they getting angrier when you have no idea what they are saying? What is their problem? What will I do? Similarly, if you haven't trained your dog to understand what 'sit' is and you start shouting 'sit', 'down on back legs', 'down', etc is it your dog's fault it is looking at you confused and increasingly scared.
4. Puppy behaviour. Just like babies, puppies do not know how the world works or how they are supposed to behave within that world. They need to be taught and learn what is good, bad, right or wrong.
A healthy and happy puppy will be a bundle of energy, desperate to explore as much as they can as quickly as they can. Dogs do not have good eyes that can see things or hands that can feel the intricacies of objects. Instead they have noses that can smell things and mouths that can chew objects.
While this can come through training and general maturing, the importance of this is that you must be patient and understand where your dog is coming from and why it does what it does.
5. Structure and enjoyment. While I have in a round about way touched on these two above, no dog training information would be complete without mentioning these two aspects on their own.
However you decide to train your dog, as with routine, you must have a structure to your training. If you have never trained a dog before, how do you know when your dog can start learning to sit, stay, etc and when it can run down to the local shop and pick the paper up for you?
You need to know what it is you actually want to train your dog to ultimately be able to do and what steps you need to take to get to that point. Personnel dog trainers, dog training classes and dog training guides can all do this. Personally, I prefer to train my own dogs and believe that in the end you develop a much stronger bond with your dog. Also, your dog is more obedient to you rather than the trainer. However, at the very least, and particularly if you have never trained a dog before, I would recommend purchasing a dog training guide.
The small amount of money for a dog training guide, compared to the time you would waste searching for free online tips that will be a mix match of training and will not provide the structure, is just not worth it. More than that, the time saved in training and the end result of a properly trained dog for the rest of its life (around 15 years) is worth many times more than the cost of even the most basic training guide.
If you, and more importantly your dog, do not enjoy training then you will never properly train your dog. Training will take longer and be much harder. When you start training your dog remember they are most likely to be a puppy and at that age all they want to do is run and explore their new world. Be flexible with the time you plan to spend training. Try and keep training short but if your dog appears to be really enjoying it then be prepared to train for longer. Likewise if your dog will just not focus, then maybe leave it for a bit before going back to it. With a routine and structure to your training, your dog will soon learn that when it comes to training they need to focus for a short length of time and will be better able to do so.
I hope the above has been helpful in your desire to train your dog. By knowing why and how your dog does what it does, you should be able to understand it's behaviour much better. By using this understanding you can better bond with your dog and train your dog. A good training routine and structure as well as plenty of patience and eventually you will have a well trained dog. Always always always make sure training is enjoyable for both you and especially your dog.







If you found this dog training advice article helpful, please feel free to visit my website for more information. As well as dog training guidance such as the best dog training book you will also find lots of information on being a good dog owner and how to keep your dog healthy.
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Dog/Child Interaction: How to Develop a Safe Relationship

Dog-child interaction is the single most important issue to deal with if you have a child and a dog. Children love dogs but dogs don't always love children. When you bring home a new puppy, your child should be trained together with your dog. Dog owners need to remember that it takes two to tango. Children aren't often taught how to treat a new doggy which can make his life a living hell. This is not only torment for your dog but can be dangerous to your child. Never trust your child alone with ANY dog, regardless of how gentle that dog is known to be. A child tends to know just which buttons to press to turn the gentlest animal into a dangerous beast. Most dogs initially feel threatened by a child because they are at eye level, they have high-pitched voices and make vigorous movements. The dog senses that the child is somewhat unpredictable. Dog-child interaction should be monitored in order to make sure that child and your dog are getting along.
What you should teach your child


Do not let your child hug the dog until the dog-child relationship has developed and they've become comfortable with each other.

Children are accustomed to showing their affection with a hug, but some dogs will tolerate it while others will not.

Never approach a strange dog without asking the owner if it is o.k. to do so.

Allow the dog to sniff you before you try to pat him.

Stay away from stray dogs. A stray dog may carry disease or try to attack.

Never scream or run away from a dog. This will only start a chase.

Never run towards a dog or around a dog.

Never approach a dog face to face. This is threatening to them. Always approach a dog from the side. This will allow the dog-child relationship to develop.

Never look a dog square in the eyes.

Never tease or hit a dog whether he's loose, tied up, behind a fence or in a crate.

Never play rough games with a dog, such as tug-of-war. This will encourage a dog to become aggressive.

Never pat a dog on the head. Always approach him under the chin or on his back.

Never bother a sleeping dog.

Never bother the dog while he's eating or chewing his favorite bone.

A dog is not a toy. Never yank on his ears or pull his tail.

If a dog poses a threat, teach your child to stay perfectly still with arms at the side, avoid eye contact, don't scream. If there is no one around who can pull the dog away, have your child use a jacket, schoolbag, garbage can cover, or anything he can find as a shield while backing away from the dog slowly.

If a dog has knocked your child to the ground, he should curl up into a ball with his hands behind his head to protect his face.

Never give the dog table food.

Always play with your dog under adult supervision.

Always be kind to your dog. This will help develop a dog-child friendship.

Always protect your dog from harm.

What you should know as a dog owner


Begin obedience training your dog as soon as possible. Don't wait til he gets older, it'll only get harder.

Never leave your child alone with the dog.

Never let your child walk the dog alone.

Never tie up your dog. Provide your dog with a fenced-in space instead.

Socialize your dog. Get him acquainted with other dogs as early as possible. You should also get him familiar with everything in his environment, both indoors and outdoors. This is key in attempting to establish a great dog-child relationship.

Reward your dog for good behavior with praise and a treat.

If you leave your dog in the yard, make sure your fence does not have spaces large enough for a child to stick their hands through.

Never allow your child to abuse the dog in any way. This will never enable a dog-child relationship to flourish.

Give your dog a space to call his own to which he can retreat to if he is feeling bothered (such as a crate).

Do not allow your child to invade your dog's space especially while your dog is eating.

Get your dog used to being touched on all body parts. This will make him more comfortable around children.

Teach your dog to maintain a good temperment in the case of having his food bowl taken away while he's eating or removing a chew toy from his mouth. This will allow your dog to be more comfortable having a child around when he's eating or chewing on his favorite toy.

Teach your child how to properly handle the dog/puppy.

Walk your dog on a leash. Do not allow him to roam free.

Keep in mind that just because your dog is wonderful around your own children doesn't mean he will tolerate other children the same way.

Spay/neuter your dog.

If you have a dog and are expecting a baby
First off, if you haven't read the information above this subhead, go up and do so now. The above information will provide you with all the do's and dont's in preparing your dog for an addition to the family. If your dog has never been around a child for a long period of time, you will have the next nine months to get him used to it. Dog-child interaction is crucial at this stage.
Invite a niece, nephew, cousin, neighbor, etc. over for a few hours a week (Preferably a child who still wears a diaper. This will get the dog used to baby smell as well).
This idea satisfies two objectives: it will get your dog used to having a child around; and will develop your dog's behavior in such a way which allows him to have a dog-child relationship with almost any child. Teach your dog how to behave around a child using much of the information discussed above.
Do not wait until the baby is born in order to make adjustments. Try to make as many adjustments as you can before the baby arrives, this way he won't be hit with all these changes at once. For instance, if you will have to move furniture around to accommodate a high chair or a playpen, this may affect the placement of your dog's bed and bowl. If so, make this move before the baby arrives. This will lessen the impact it will have on your dog and is less likely to affect the dog-child relationship.
Once you have the nursery set up for the baby, teach your dog that he will not be allowed in the room, at all. If he learns this before the baby comes, it will lessen the dog's resentment towards the baby.
Get your dog used to the sounds a baby makes by playing a recording of a baby cooing and crying. Play this recording in the nursery in order to indicate to your dog where exactly he can expect these sounds to be coming from.
Make accommodations for your dog for the day you go into labor. He may have to spend hours alone before daddy's comes home from the hospital.
When it's time to bring the baby home, have someone go into another room with the dog while you put the baby down and get settled. Then bring the baby out and introduce the dog to the baby. The dog will probably give the baby a sniff or two and seek your attention. After all, he hasn't seen you in days. At this point, it would be a good idea to put the baby down and spend some time playing with the dog. Show him he's still loved. This will aid in the development of the dog-child relationship.
Your dog may require some extra attention in the first days of welcoming the baby. This will keep him from resenting the baby for stealing all the attention. Give him your undivided attention.
Allow your dog to be present when changing or feeding the baby.
Never yell at your dog for getting too close to the baby. Allow him to sniff the baby in order to get used to his scent. Make sure this is done under strict supervision. This will help nourish the dog-child relationship.
As the baby gets older, you will teach him to respect the dog and be gentle towards him.
Get your child to help you with dog chores, such as feeding and walking the dog.
Before your know it, a natural dog-child bond will form which will give them a long-lasting friendship for years to come.
Help your child and your dog live in perfect harmony by adhering to these simple rules. Once a good dog-child relationship has been established, this bond will last a lifetime.
If you have trouble controlling your dog, you should bring your dog (and your child) to an obedience class to help you get started.







Nancy Settecasi, Owner of Happy K-9 Dog Care Proud owner of Cookie and Skippy, Cocker Spaniels, Dog lover http://www.happyk-9.com

Fearful Timid and Anxious Dogs

Socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations. By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive in later life, (FACT) "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related".

Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don't supply it ask why?

Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog's ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.

Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start "the abuse started at four months old" he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.

Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding. Not money or accolades!

Don't expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.

The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.

You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.

Distance Learning

To gain and improve a dog's confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog's new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let's say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog's body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.

Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog's state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.

Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.

Play or Training Therapy

There is an exception to this, if the dog has been recently frightened say by fireworks, you can actually act very blas? and go immediately outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential problem immediately.

Why this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits a lot of turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.

Focused Attention

One way of getting your dog to overcome certain fear situations is to gain the dog's attention with treats, toys or your voice as you walk past whatever is causing the problem. This has a similar effect as using distance because the dog is thinking about something else instead. Therefore the intensity of the fear is reduced.

You will need treats or toys for this method I recommend either cheese, liver, or puffed jerky, do not use treats to lure dogs keep them out of sight till required. Sit next to the dog and call its name, it is even better if you can get a partner or friend to help on the other side, sit the dog between you and your partner or friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically or play or use a toy, get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life, and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned. Never use the dogs name in a negative situation, ie do not scold or punish using his/her name. Once you have got the dog to acknowledge his name then start these exercises:

To start focused attention say the dogs name and move immediately away from the dog when he moves towards and with you PRAISE and TREAT/PLAY immediately you can use a clicker for the praise or a target word, I use the word "good" in these circumstances. Remember to not show the treat until you are ready to give it or it will become part of the command.

When you give the treat try and align it between both yours and the dog's eyes this will make sure you are making good eye contact after a while you will see the dog making eye contact regularly you can treat this action at this time so as to embed it. Do these sequences at least 4 times in a row, ie name/move/praise/treat. The repetition is what teaches the dog to maintain that attention until you give the release command. The release command can be OK or whatever you choose to use. Practice this everywhere you go including training classes.

What you are looking for by performing these exercises is to tune out outside influences including the ones that are causing a fear or aggressive response. Once you can comfortably perform this exercise use it to move gradually ever closer to the problem you are trying to overcome. Over time you can momentarily release the dogs attention, increase this as you would using the distance technique, if you get a fear response then you have moved too far too fast. And you must go back to where the dog last felt comfortable.

Punishment is not an Option

It is of no use whatsoever punishing the dog for its fearful actions, this only causes more stress and therefore more fearful behaviour, therefore in the case of interdog aggression even more defensive behaviour, remember the dog had really only three choices when confronted with a fearful situation these are commonly listed as the three Fs. Freeze, Flight or Fight. If the first two are found not to work the third one kicks in.

Let's take the vacuum cleaner as an example. If you had watched your pup from the first time it was confronted by this "demon of the dark abyss" he would more than likely have crouched down as low as possible his body rigid, if the noise and the monster continued the puppy would have run away, probably under a table or a chair and if it came closer it would have growled and snarled probably making darting and biting motions especially when you playfully pushed the Hoover closer to see the pups reaction. Anything ring a bell?

Some pups will be SO traumatised by the noise and the movement of the cleaner that they go into total freeze mode, our initial instinct would be to pick up and cuddle and comfort the frightened puppy. Perfectly natural human behaviour, something is frightened then nurture it. Unfortunately to a dogs mind this indicates that it is being praised for the fear, confirming his need to be fearful. If this happens when to pup is between 8 to 11.5 week old, which is the first of several fear periods throughout the dog's life, then that fear could be so deep rooted as to be almost impossible to eradicate completely.

Obedience Classes?

Some dogs that are fearful or timid may benefit from a training class especially one that uses positive methods. I, the case of a rescue dog or any adult dog that you have rehomed, I would wait at least six weeks before embarking on this method. Some very fearful dogs may be too nervous for class work until you've done some remedial work first. A private trainer or behaviourist should be able to help structure a positive approach to build up confidence in your dog, and also help determine when the dog is capable of class work.

Do not make your dog jump into the deep end at classes or you can go undo all the good work so far. Initially keep the dog on the outer edge of the class and at a distance from anything the dog fears. If you've developed focused attention before starting class, then this will be extremely useful for helping the dog relax in these situations. Some dogs may need several visits starting with very short periods at a time before actually participating in the classes. Unfortunately some dogs may never be able to function well enough for this type of remedial work.

What Other Treatments Could Help?

Change of Diet: A good quality food helps in many cases, most cheap food has cereal as filler, this can lead to a lack of serotonin, and low serotonin has been linked to aggression and anxiety. Feeding a good quality dog food has other benefits, it need not be more expensive as you do not require as much to get the same calorific intake, so it works out good value for money, but more importantly you are giving your dog a scientifically developed formula that is best for him or her. The nervous dog who eats a food overly-high in protein or sugar can experience even higher levels of anxiety. Therefore consider switching to a food with slightly lower protein levels.

To check on the level of protein of your dog's food, look on the back or side of the dog food bag or can, where the percentage of protein will be listed. Levels usually vary from 14% (for aged dogs) all the way up to 25% (for puppies and working dogs). I am not a fan of canned food I find a quality dry all in one food is a much better option,especially with the fearful phobic dog

If a nervous, hyper dog eats food with protein levels at around 22%, for example, consider trying a food with 18-20% protein. Doing so may help calm him down. If done in conjunction with regular exercise and desensitisation program.

These are a number of homeopathic and mainstream drugs that can be used in situations of stress, fear, aggression, barking, and noise aversion etc; these are a few of the ones available:

? Dr Bach's Flower Remedies: They are made from wild flowers. These gentle remedies are used to help relieve emotional and stress related disturbances in people and animals. The most common one used is Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy Available Me,Chemist, health food shop or internet

? Skullcap and Valerian: A traditional herbal remedy for the symptomatic relief of anxiety, nervousness, excitability and travel sickness, and an adjunct in the treatment of epilepsy in dogs and cats. Normally supplied in a sugar coated tablet, it helps to calm and relax dogs and cats suffering from, apprehension, phobias or hyperactivity.

Available Me, Chemist, health food shop or internet.

? Clomicalm About 14 per cent of dogs suffer from "separation anxiety" - a fear of being left alone - and Clomicalm claims to deal with the barking and "destructive behaviour". Its human equivalent is Anafranil, an anti-depressant. Unfortunately the side-effects can include vomiting and diarrhoea.

Available Vets

Clomicalm is a mainstream drug and I would be loath to suggest its use except in extreme cases where a anxiety desensitisation program using perhaps just herbal helpers initially has not worked. It is far better to work on the symptoms that mask them with drugs.

With all the above it is always prudent to discuss any medication with your Vet before embarking on any treatment program

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. MPAACT Adip.CCB

Stan is a fully Insured professional Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 35 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, Middlesex, Berkshire, Kent, Sussex, Hampshire, Though is available to travel to any location in the UK if required.

Recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centre's, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He has acted as a behavioural expert for Disney, Sky, BBC, ITV, and LBC. and has appeared on television, radio and in national newspapers on numerous occasions. He is currently filming for a new eight part series for Television which is due to be aired late autumn/early winter.

He is the Founder Member and current Chairman of PAACT
The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers He is also the designer and developer the amazing new training aid The Jingler.

Stan also acts as an expert witness in cases involving the DDA (Dangerous Dogs Act 1991. and lectures and gives practical demonstrations at national and international meetings and symposiums.
He also gives practical demonstrations of his remarkable ability to work with all dogs by taking them out of the audience. He is currently filming for a series on Sky one HD and Sky one called Dogumentary

? Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
web site http://www.doglistener.co.uk

How to House Train Your Dog

House training is undoubtedly the one aspect of dog training that is essential to ensure that your dog becomes a valued member of your family. As with many other aspects of dog training, the best method of achieving a successfully house trained dog is to use your dog's own nature to your advantage.

A wonderful thing about dogs that can make house training much easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals. The majority of dogs would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, dogs are very good at developing habits. This can be used to your benefit in relation to establishing a set place for your dog to urinate and defecate. For example, dogs that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible, and desirable, to use these natural canine tendencies when house training your dog.

The first step in house training your dog is to set up your training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger adult dogs find a crate too confining if they haven't been used to it from an early stage.

It is important that you spend as much time in the training area with your dog as possible. Use this area to play with your dog, and let your dog eat and sleep in the training area. Provide your dog with a special bed in the training area - this can be anything from a store bought custom dog bed to a large towel in an appropriately sized box. At first, you will probably find that your dog will want to eliminate in this area, but once your dog has recognized the training area as his or her own space, he or she will be much more reluctant to soil it.

The next step in house training is to set up a toilet area for your dog. Your dog must have ready access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for you to accompany your dog into the toilet area until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in that area. This will help reinforce to your dog that there is one area for toileting, and no other.

Regular meals for your dog assists in making the house training process easier for both you and your dog. Feeding your dog on a regular basis will also have the added benefit of creating a regular schedule for your dog's toilet habits. Once you know when your dog is likely to need to eliminate, it will be simple to guide your dog to the established toilet area.

Once you have your dog using the toilet area on a regular and systematic basis, it is very important to not confine your dog without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. If your dog is unable to hold it, he will have no option but to eliminate in the training area. And this occurrence will confuse your dog. He will no longer associate the toilet area with being the ONLY area in which he can eliminate. You will thus be making your job of house training your dog more difficult for yourself.

When your dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended only once you are sure of the dog's ability to control its bladder and bowels.

First expand the training area to another single room, and allow your dog to eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the dog has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended.

Once your dog has become used to sleeping in the bed within the training area, you can move the bed around the house, relocating it from room to room. But when you are not with your dog, he or she should be confined to the training area.

You can speed up the house training process, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It will be much easier to take your time in the beginning than to have to retrain a problem dog later. You should always praise and reward your dog each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is equally important not to punish your dog for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow down the house training process. You wouldn't consider punishing a baby for soiling its diaper, would you? Or even a toddler for soiling his or her pants from time to time? Your dog is the same as a human child in this respect - he needs time to learn both to control his toileting, and what you require of him.

Brigitte Smith runs two websites dedicated to dog training, dog care and dog health:

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