Basic Obedience Training - Secret of Having a Well-Behaved Dog - Training Tips For Different Dogs

A trained, obedient dog is a pleasure and a delight; a reliable, trustworthy and dependable companion whose behaviour will never give you cause for concern. On the other hand a spoiled, rowdy, pampered, undisciplined animal is a nuisance and frequently a source of great embarrassment. In the case of the larger, powerful breeds, an uncontrollable dog is a positive danger.
Although most dog owners would agree with the above, there are many who nevertheless shirk the responsibility of training their dogs because they mistakenly believe that it is a long, complex time-consuming process.
Obviously if you have ambitions to train your dog to Competition standard and to work with the perfect precision necessary for top honors in the Obedience ring, you must be prepared to devote a considerable amount of time to training. But if your purpose is simply to have a well-disciplined companion, you can achieve this goal without great effort and in a relatively short space of time.
If you are able to join one of the Obedience Dog Clubs in your area, so much the better. You will receive competent direction from an experienced trainer and in addition will have the opportunity of allowing your dog to come into contact with other dogs, which is a very great advantage.
Let us assume however that for various reasons this is not possible or convenient.
At the outset it is important for you to accept the fact that in order to have a well-behaved dog it is necessary for your dog to respect you in addition to loving you. You will command this respect by being firm, calm and confident in your manner without creating any confusion in your dog's mind.
How can you can command this respect? This is not as difficult as this may seem. There are certain basic rules to follow. Guide your dog in such a way that he has no doubt whatsoever as to what is required of him. Insist when you give a command it is in fact a command not a request. Praise him lavishly and unstintingly when he obeys your command. Reprimand him suitably and appropriately when he refuses to obey your command.
This is the basis of all obedience training. Praise for obeying a command and reprimand for disobeying a command.
Of these two factors, the question of reprimand is clearly the more difficult to apply. It also gives rise to the greatest difference of opinion in training methods.
Whereas it is virtually impossible to praise a dog too lavishly, and even if excessive praise is given no harm can result, an unnecessarily harsh reprimand of a sensitive young dogs for a relatively minor misdemeanor will have serious consequences and set your training back many months.
Understand the command.
Another point that should always be borne in mind is that you must always be absolutely certain that your dog understands the command you have given. If you have the slightest doubt on this score, the dog must be given the benefit before he is reprimanded.
All commands must be given in a firm, confident manner without raising your voice unnecessarily. There is no need whatsoever to act as if you were a drill sergeant on a parade ground. Any screaming or loss of control on your part - even if you consider you are being deliberately provoked - will only jeopardize the training process.
You want your dog to respect you by accepting the fact that you are someone prepared to guide him but who will not allow yourself to be taken advantage of by disobedience.
This can be accomplished without loss of control on your part. It can be accomplished by reprimanding him adequately and suitably for any disobedience. As soon as he accepts the fact that your commands are not requests, will respect you. The whole relationship between you and your dog hinges on this attitude.
How to reprimand
Now to turn to the important question of how to reprimand for disregarding a command you have given. It must be accepted that the temperaments of different dogs are as varied as that of human beings. The temperaments of different breeds vary enormously and even within a breed certain strains vary in sensitivity. Dog and bitches will also react differently to reproof.
Because of this it is most important for you to assess accurately the level of sensitivity of the dog you are training. For example, a mild correction such as a sharp "No! You bad dog!" could quite easily be sufficient reproof for a sensitive Border Collie bitch in order to bring about the required change in behaviour. On the other hand a boisterous, Great Dane male or Rottweiler would, in some instances, require a more vigorous and pronounced indication of disapproval.
It must be remembered however, that one should not fall into the trap of categorizing breeds with regard to behaviour patterns.
In mentioning the boisterous Great Dane this by no means is meant to suggest that all Great Danes are in any way obstinate or difficult to train. There are tremendous variations in temperament within the breeds. In fact a young harlequin Great Dane that I have at the moment responds so readily to commands t it only necessary for me to give them in a very soft voiced - almost as a whisper!
The same applies to Shepherds. I have had obstinate, self-willed Shepherds, while others I have owned have been so eager to please they have been an absolute delight to train. They have required an absolute minimum of effort in training.
When you are absolutely certain your dog understands your command and there is no confusion as to what you want him to do, it might be necessary for you to give him a really hard jerk of the leash. Before doing so make certain his training collar is of sufficient length to give positive effect to the jerk. You should accompany the jerk with a very definite and unmistakable "No!"
Limits to the extent of training.
It might be well to mention at this stage that with certain dogs there are limits to the extent of training to which you can hope to aspire. Now this may sound very negative advice indeed but it is raising false hopes to pretend that every animal can reach the same level of training.
Certain breeds are noted for their independence of spirit and in fact devotees of these breeds admire them for these very qualities. For example, it is highly unlikely if your happen to be training a Daschund - as lovable as this breed of dog happens to be - or a miniature Schnauzer - that you will reach top honors in Obedience tests. This in no way is meant to suggest that your Daschund or Schnauzer cannot be trained to become very well disciplined, obedient and responsive.
Patience, understanding and application of the principle of praise and reprimand will achieve the desired results with any dog. But with certain dogs it requires more patience and perseverance than with others.
Choice of breed to train.
If you are an ambitious and competitive type of person and anxious to excel in Obedience tests, it will be necessary for you to be very judicious in your choice not only with regard to the breed you select, but also to the strain within the breed. There is no doubt whatsoever that some dogs are more amenable to training than others and the training process will involve far less time and effort
This applies particularly to the German Shepherd Dog, a breed with which I have been associated for more than fifty years. Any competitor in German Shepherd Dog working trials will tell you that if you hope to be successful in this highly competitive field it is necessary to be very selective in your choice of the Shepherd you intend training.
A examination of the pedigrees of the top winners in German Shepherd Dog working trials in Germany, the United States and Britain will reveal that certain "working" lines consistently produce the top winners. There is no question that intelligence and -more important - willingness to work are inherited traits.
In all probability however, you already have a dog. You love him dearly and have no intention of parting with him merely because his ancestors were not noted for their working qualifications.
Training dogs with different temperaments.
In order to assist you with your training methods, let us try and simplify the process and deal with three distinct types of temperaments frequently found in dogs.
Obviously there are many variations and many traits overlaps but for the purpose of this article let us deal with three distinct type of temperaments and examine the training methods necessary in each case.
1.Dog Number One.
The highly-strung, over-exuberant dog.
Here is a bundle of nervous energy; a highly-strung, excitable, over-exuberant, extremely noisy, boisterous animal. Sometimes he barks excessively without any apparent reason. Often he is over-aggressive towards others dogs and even humans.
2. Dog Number two.
The shy, timid dog.
This dog is very shy, timid and completely lacking in self-confidence. He shrinks from human contact and when confronted with any situation with which he is unable to cope, he either backs into a corner and barks hysterically or otherwise rolls on his back in abject submissiveness.
3. Dog Number three.
The lazy dog.
This animal is quiet, docile to the point of disinterest, sluggish, dully and lazy, completely without enthusiasm except for his dinner dish.
Now we have three distinct types of dog - possibly somewhat exaggerated - but nevertheless easily recognizable. Our objective in each case is the same - to have a well-disciplined animal that will obey our commands,
Because this article is limited in scope let us presume that our initial training objective is to have a dog that will walk quietly at heel without pulling, dragging, straining or lagging. Let us examine how this can be achieved using the above three dogs as training examples.
For our purpose we shall require a leather lead and a training collar of sufficient length and sufficient strength. Place the collar over the neck in such a way that when the leash is jerked the collar will tighten and when the lead if relaxed the collar fits loosely. This simple training collar is a remarkable training device that will work equally well with all three dogs.
Let us commence with Dog Number 1. We will to refer him as "Blitz".
"BLITZ."
With your ball of fire on our left side, you step briskly forward. The dog is given the command "Heel". Holding the leash very firmly in your right hand you nevertheless make certain there is sufficient slack to give the dog the impression that he is NOT firmly restrained. In fact, because of this slackness, the dog is uncertain whether he is on lead or not
As expected the dog proceeds for exactly five seconds and then like a bolt he surges forward. With leather leash very firmly held by the right hand - or both hands if you prefer - you allow the dog to bolt forward until almost at the end of the lead. At this point you simply do a smart about turn. Note: There is no reprimand whatsoever!
In fact not a word is said. If your timing has been correct - and this may require some practice - a very surprised ball of fire will find himself being air-borne and completely jerked off his feet by his momentum.
He turns in mid-air to find you walking in the opposite direction At this stage you call his name very pleasantly and enthusiastically. "Good boy, Blitz! Heel boy!" and you pat your left leg encouragingly.
A somewhat confused "Blitz" comes running up to your left to receive his just rewards - lavish praise and a loving pat on his head!
Remember No word of reprimand should be given. "Blitz" was told to heel. He didn't heel and the jerk he received will not be associated with any unpleasantness caused by you. It was entirely his own fault; due to his own ineptness and clumsiness in not staying close to your left side.
There will be occasions in the future where you will be required to jerk the lead as a definite reprimand and accompany the jerk with a vocal reprimand. "Blitz" will then have no doubt in his mind that this jerk is a reprimand. But at this stage our purpose is to confuse "Blitz" into believing that the discomfort he received by being jerked off his fee was entirely his own fault.
After no more than 4 or 5 incidents of this nature a very disconcerted "Blitz" will suspect that every cat that darts in his path and every motor-cyclist who happens to ride by is merely a trick that has been devised to fool him into rushing after it and being jerked off his feet.
Quite soon you will be well on your way to having a dog who is a pleasure to take for a stroll because he heels comfortably at your side in spite of every possible distraction.
Dog number 2. "Flinch"
Quite clearly the method we used with Dog Number 1 will be unsuitable with dog Number 2 - the shy, timid dog who is lacking in self-confidence.
This dog - le us refer him as "Flinch - is so lacking in confidence that he is constant need of praise and assurance. Let it be quite clear that if one has the patience, perseverance and calm temperament to deal with a dog of this nature it is possible to have a remarkably good worker who will do everything possible to please you and earn your praise. He will ask nothing more from life than your praise and he will become absolutely devoted to you.
But, it should be stressed, dogs of this type do require a tremendous amount of patience, understanding and - above all - self-control. Whereas it is possible to speak harshly to most dogs without serious consequences, a dog of this nature will react most unfavorably to harshness and one thoughtless reprimand can set you back weeks of hard work in building up his confidence.
Dog refuses to budge.
After placing the collar on your "Flinch" and attaching the lead he is more than likely to set his hind-quarters on the ground and refuse to budge; or he will twist himself around your legs - pull to the right - to the side - dart off in the direction of home and do absolutely everything anything but the "heel" you have commanded him.
In this case you must resort once again to a little trickery, but of a different kind. Try and let him associate the training collar and the leash and the stroll with something pleasant. In your left hand or your left pocket keep little pieces of boiled liver that you have dried in the oven, or some other delicacy. If he refuses to budge coax him - encourage him. Once he has come to your left side praise him with great enthusiasm and give him a tit-bit.
As you walk he will, haltingly, be tempted to follow. With very gentle jerks of the lead, accompanied by soothing words of encouragement, keep on re-assuring him how good and clever he is. It might try your patience but eventually you will have gained his confidence. Any distractions that may present themselves must be accompanied by slight jerks of the lead. No words of reprimand, remember. But plenty of praise when he eventually comes to heel.
Regard this type of dog as a challenge to your perseverance and self-control. If you are capable of meeting this challenge - and capable of controlling (or at least hiding) your understandable and justifiable bouts of irritability, you will eventually have an excellent Obedience worker of whom you will one day be justifiably proud.
Do not continue to "baby talk", coddle and pamper this type of dog.
There is another important point to remember with regard to this highly sensitive, nervous type of dog. Once you have managed to overcome the first step of your training, which was the extreme reluctance to walk at heel and you have a dog that now walks willingly at heel, you must start to modify your method of training.
Very often owners with dogs, who have this nervous disposition, persist in to trying to reassure their on every occasion they demonstrate fear when faced with some unaccustomed unusual object or situation.
If, for example, while out walking with the dog, the animal is frightened by some unusual object in the street, the owner resorts to soft, soothing, "baby-talk", words of encouragement:
This is quite wrong. All that is happening is that the owner is endorsing the dog's nervous behavior. In effect the message the dog receives is: "I quite understand your concern. It is quite alright for you to be frightened". Instead of reassuring the dog with exaggerated words of reassurance and soft talking, the owner should behave in a completely, unconcerned manner with words and actions that reflect the following attitude. "Don't be silly now. You are acting foolishly. There is nothing to worry about"
Distract the dog. Do a few obedience exercises. "Sit" "Down". Speak in a mater-of-fact tone of voice. Act unconcerned as if there is nothing to worry about.
The lesson should be clear. In the initial stages of training you can reassure and encourage as much as you consider necessary so that you can overcome the initial hurdle of the dog not wanting to heel. But one you have got past this stage, move on. Do not go back to kindergarten classes.
Dog Number 3. The lazy dog. "Dozy"
The third type of dog - the dully, sluggish, and lazy dog - requires yet another approach. Here the enthusiasm must come from you. Once again it is important to remember that you must no show irritation as much as you are goaded. Muster as much enthusiasm a you can place the collar around "Dozy's" neck.
Walk briskly forward giving the command "heel" pleasantly and brightly. As "Dozy" lags behind - as he inevitably will - give little jerks on the lead and accompany these jerks with sounds of encouragement. Use your left hand to pat his hear with great affection. Show excitement as you walk briskly forward and remember that even though you are tempted to give the lazy blighter a smart kick in the rear, resist the temptation. Do not show any irritation at all.
One advantage of the lazy dog is that very often he is also a very greedy dog. Once again you can make judicious use of the tit-bit to encourage him to walk, closely at heel. But obviously do not make a habit of this form of encouragement because he will soon come to expect it as his just dessert every time and will not be satisfied with mere praise.
Because a dog of this type is not usually particularly sensitive you can correct lagging by turning sharply to the right without giving "dozy" any prior warning. While walking forward, and aware that "Dozy" is a few paces behind, pivot suddenly on your left leg and lunge sharply right. Accompanying your turn to the right with a sharp jerk on the lead as "Dozy" is caught unawares. He is forced to increase his pace in order to catch up with you. Praise him enthusiastically when he eventually does come to your left side.
Even though the approach is quite different with these three types of dogs, it is clear that the basic principle remains the same. When using the training collar to teach the dog to heel correctly, the dog must be left with the distinct impression that the jerk and discomfort that follows are his own fault.
The dog soon comes to realize that when he corrects his behavior not only does the discomfort cease but there is also the additional incentive of praise from his handler.
Use the training collar correctly.
Take full advantage of the training collar during these early stages of training.- the jerk followed by praise. At a later stage of training when the dog is required to work off lead, you will not be able to do so. But at this early stage of training make full use of the training collar to help you establish the correct relationship between you and your dog. In this way your dog will learn not only to love you but also to respect you. He will become an eager- to- please, willing, obedient, lovable companion.







This article is one of many that appears in the website http://www.freedogadvice.com There is also valuable information with regard to health, feeding and suggestions with regard to the choice of a suitable breed. For those interested in German Shepherds, there are in-depth articles about show and working bloodlines, with particular reference to top winning dogs in Germany - past and present.
Dennis Fisher has been involved with dogs as a Judge, Breeder and Director of Obedience training for his all-breed Obedience training Club. Although his special interest is German Shepherds, he has also personally owned and trained dogs of the follwing breeds: Great Danes, French Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Schipperkes, Dobermanns, and Fox Terriers. A great variety of articles covering a wide range of subjects can be found on his website http://www.freedogadvice.com

Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy's den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special "treats" is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog's purpose for the crate is that it becomes his "den" you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den - a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog's regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you're having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite "potty pattern": when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her "potty area". Right from the start I began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten - back outside. Family social hour - back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn't have to clean up a single "accident" with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don't expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe "chewy" items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their "den", their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog's private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it's a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy's behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can't control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog's confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he's learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're certain that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

C. Anne is the author of multiple articles related to the care and nurture of domestic pets. She is an advocate of training by "Positive Reinforcement" and a campaigner against all forms of animal abuse and exploitation.

To visit C. Anne's pet blog Click ==> http://4petsonline.com

Dog Training - 8 Ways to Cut Down on Behavior Problems

You've performed three of the most important tasks for a dog owner: decided if you were right for a dog, determined what dog was the best for you and taught your best friend some manners. That should be about it, right? Wrong!

You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It's important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don't, all of that training you've done so far will be for naught.

Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren't themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.

Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.

1. Don't forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don't provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:

- Don't let him pull on his leash.

- Don't put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.

- Don't let him get away with bad behavior.

- Always eat before he does.

- Don't chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.

- Don't allow him to bite anyone.

- Always go through doorways before him.

- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.

- Don't give him anything - attention, food, play - without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.

- Don't allow your dog on furniture without your permission.

- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.

When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!

2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn't practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don't give your dog purpose, he'll become bored and develop behavioral problems.

3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you've used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won't listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.

4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child - it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.

Dogs don't respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.

5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he's in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It's important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection

6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he's a puppy, as soon as possible if he's an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.

If you have an adult dog, don't worry. That old saying, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You'll learn the subtleties of your dog's behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an "only dog" how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.

Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:

- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for

recommendations.

- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.

- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.

- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.

- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you'll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.

- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn't always respond to the tried-and-true methods.

- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.

- Be sure to get a list of equipment you'll need to bring with you to your first class.

Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don't feed your dog before class - since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don't forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog's behavior.

7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.

8. Keep your dog's home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!

If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.

If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don't despair! There's nothing to say that you can't start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.

Some problems won't be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn't have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we'll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.

Marilyn Burnham

Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'

The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!

For More Information On Dog Training

Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: ?Dog Owners Boot Camp? The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don?t Want You To Know!

Dog Training Fundamentals - 5 Key Dog Behaviour Factors That Affect Training

Whether you already have experience of dog ownership, are a new dog owner or are about to be a dog owner, then training your dog is one of the most important aspects you need to consider. Likewise if you currently have a dog with behaviour problems, then dog training is essential.
However, knowing you need to train your dog and actually training your dog are two entirely different things. Just where do you start?
To successfully train your dog, you need to consider and understand some key facets of dog behaviour. Knowing and understanding these 5 facets will greatly improve your dog training.
1. The origins of dogs. Dogs are in essence descended from modern day wolves. While domestication has dampened or eliminated many traits, some key natural instincts still remain. Like wolves, dogs are pack animals. What does this mean?
Well, there are several traits that derive from being a pack animal. The important ones when it comes to training are dogs are naturally sociable, they are used to routine and they are used to a social structure (i.e. the famed alpha male).
As sociable animals dogs thrive on the interaction with other dogs. A dog does not consider you as a human but rather a funny looking dog. Therefore, dogs thrive on the interaction with you. Just like a wild wolf, rejected by the pack, if you starve a dog of this interaction, they will become unhappy and very agitated.
When it comes to training, you can use this to reward or punish your dog. Interacting with your dog (e.g. patting, encouraging/excited talk, etc) can be as much of a reward as treats of food. Similarly, ignoring your dog (e.g. turning your back, stern talk, putting them in another room, etc) can be a harsh punishment for a dog. Its definitely better than smacking them.
As with all animals (including humans), dogs thrive on routine. If they know what and when they are likely to be doing certain things, then they are relaxed and comfortable. They know what to expect and are not confused by ever changing circumstances.
Training should also stick to a routine. Decide when the best time of the day is best for you to train your dog and stick by that time as rigidly as possible. Your dog will soon get into a routine of expecting to be trained at say 3pm every day and will be prepared for when training time comes. If your dog is ready and expecting to be trained, then it goes without saying that they will actually train better.
Within a pack there is always the alpha male. The dog that leads the pack, protects the pack and ultimately ensures the pack is fed and survives. As mentioned, a dog sees you as a funny looking dog and not a human. To be a good dog owner you absolutely need to be the alpha male. How many nature programs have you seen where the alpha male is being challenged by one of the other would be alpha males? Likewise, your dog will be challenging you to be the alpha male - this is a natural instinct for them.
You must establish yourself as the alpha male from the beginning. Providing food, interaction, punishing bad behaviour, body and vocal language all go towards asserting yourself as the alpha male. If your dog does not consider you as the alpha male, then they will not listen or act on your training instructions.
2. A dog's memory. We all know that goldfish have short memories. However, you may be surprised to know that dogs also have short retention memories. If you could tell your dog something, it is likely that by the next day or a few hours later, they will have forgotten. On the other had (or paw) dogs do have incredibly good associated memory. This basically means that if your dog can associated something with what you tell it then it will likely remember what you told it for years to come.
For example if you told your dog (assuming you could speak doggy language) that the chocolate biscuits were in the cupboard your dog would probably forget this within a few hours. However, if you showed your dog where the chocolate biscuits were, repeating the words 'chocolate biscuits', every time you said 'chocolate biscuits' it would probably go straight to the cupboard. It may also search the cupboard every few hours for the rest of its life looking for the chocolate biscuits but that's not the point.
Therefore, when training your dog you need to associate the training topic with something. For example: if you are teaching your dog to sit. If you associate the word 'sit' by getting your dog to physically sit and then giving them a reward. Repeat this a few times and soon your dog will associate your command 'sit' with it physically sitting and then getting a reward. The difficult bit is disassociating the reward - ask yourself why almost every dog will naturally sit when you have food in your hand?
3. Doggy language. Despite comments above, we cannot speak doggy language and dogs cannot speak our language. This is important when it comes to training. You have to choose words for commands that both you and your dog will remember. Be careful not to choose very common words or else your dog will be easily confused when this word keeps appearing within the middle of a sentence. A common word often used in training dogs is 'come'. For this example, it may be better to use a slang version or combine 'come here' into a single short word.
The important thing is that when you decide on a word for a command to stick with it and be consistent, otherwise your dog will become confused.
I know it can be difficult, especially if you come home to your new TV pulled off the cabinet, to always use pre-selected words when talking to your dog. Your dog does not speak human language and will only know what those few words you have trained it with are (and the tone you have used). So if you start using other words or different tones your dog will not understand.
For example: imagine someone speaking to you in a foreign language asking for directions to the city hall. You can't understand a word they are saying yet they get more and more frustrated, talking in a louder and quicker language. Is it your fault you can't understand them? Why are they getting angrier when you have no idea what they are saying? What is their problem? What will I do? Similarly, if you haven't trained your dog to understand what 'sit' is and you start shouting 'sit', 'down on back legs', 'down', etc is it your dog's fault it is looking at you confused and increasingly scared.
4. Puppy behaviour. Just like babies, puppies do not know how the world works or how they are supposed to behave within that world. They need to be taught and learn what is good, bad, right or wrong.
A healthy and happy puppy will be a bundle of energy, desperate to explore as much as they can as quickly as they can. Dogs do not have good eyes that can see things or hands that can feel the intricacies of objects. Instead they have noses that can smell things and mouths that can chew objects.
While this can come through training and general maturing, the importance of this is that you must be patient and understand where your dog is coming from and why it does what it does.
5. Structure and enjoyment. While I have in a round about way touched on these two above, no dog training information would be complete without mentioning these two aspects on their own.
However you decide to train your dog, as with routine, you must have a structure to your training. If you have never trained a dog before, how do you know when your dog can start learning to sit, stay, etc and when it can run down to the local shop and pick the paper up for you?
You need to know what it is you actually want to train your dog to ultimately be able to do and what steps you need to take to get to that point. Personnel dog trainers, dog training classes and dog training guides can all do this. Personally, I prefer to train my own dogs and believe that in the end you develop a much stronger bond with your dog. Also, your dog is more obedient to you rather than the trainer. However, at the very least, and particularly if you have never trained a dog before, I would recommend purchasing a dog training guide.
The small amount of money for a dog training guide, compared to the time you would waste searching for free online tips that will be a mix match of training and will not provide the structure, is just not worth it. More than that, the time saved in training and the end result of a properly trained dog for the rest of its life (around 15 years) is worth many times more than the cost of even the most basic training guide.
If you, and more importantly your dog, do not enjoy training then you will never properly train your dog. Training will take longer and be much harder. When you start training your dog remember they are most likely to be a puppy and at that age all they want to do is run and explore their new world. Be flexible with the time you plan to spend training. Try and keep training short but if your dog appears to be really enjoying it then be prepared to train for longer. Likewise if your dog will just not focus, then maybe leave it for a bit before going back to it. With a routine and structure to your training, your dog will soon learn that when it comes to training they need to focus for a short length of time and will be better able to do so.
I hope the above has been helpful in your desire to train your dog. By knowing why and how your dog does what it does, you should be able to understand it's behaviour much better. By using this understanding you can better bond with your dog and train your dog. A good training routine and structure as well as plenty of patience and eventually you will have a well trained dog. Always always always make sure training is enjoyable for both you and especially your dog.







If you found this dog training advice article helpful, please feel free to visit my website for more information. As well as dog training guidance such as the best dog training book you will also find lots of information on being a good dog owner and how to keep your dog healthy.
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Training Your Dog the Right Way - The Basics

In order to be considered properly trained, there are some basic commands that he or she must master. Understanding these basic commands is vital to the well being of the dog, the owner and the family.

Learning just a few basic commands can go a long way toward creating a dog that is a joy to be around. Everyone has seen examples of both well trained and poorly trained dogs, and few people would opt for the poorly trained varieties. Training a dog properly the first time is especially vital for owners of dog breeds that have been bred for their aggressiveness, such as pit bulls, Doberman pinchers and German shepherds.

In addition, proper training is important for families with young children. Young children can torment dogs and cause biting reactions, so it is important that the dog learn how to deal with these types of situations.

The basic obedience commands that every dog must know are - "Heel", "No", "Sit", "Stay", "Down" and "Off". These six commands form the basis of every basic obedience class, and it is vital that you and your dog master these basic commands. These are the fundamentals, and it will be impossible to move onto other commands, or to correct problem behaviors, without having mastered the basics.

Heel

Let's start with the most basic command of all, the heel command. Teaching a dog to heel is the fundamental first step in teaching the dog to walk properly on the leash. The proper place for the dog to walk is at your side, neither lagging behind nor straining to get ahead.

If your dog begins to forge ahead on the lead, gently tug on the leash. This will cause the training collar to tighten and give the dog a gentle reminder to fall back into line. If the dog begins to lag behind, gently urge him forward. A lure or toy is a good tool for the dog that constantly lags behind.

Once the dog is consistently walking at your side, try changing your pace and encouraging the dog to match his pace with yours. It should always be the dog who adjusts his pace to you; you should never adjust your pace to meet the needs of the dog.

The word "No"

The word no is an important one for your dog to learn, and one you may be using a lot as training begins. It is important that the dog learn to respond to a sharp "No" promptly and obediently.

The "Sit" command

The sit command is another vital link in the chain that is dog training. Teaching a dog to sit on command, using voice commands alone, will form the groundwork of much future training, so it is important for the dog to master this vital skill.

The sit command can be combined with the heel command. As you walk alongside your dog, stop abruptly. If your dog does not stop when you do, give a sharp tug on the leash to remind the dog. Many dogs will instinctively stop when you do, while others need to be reminded through the use of the leash and the training collar.

Once the dog has stopped by your side, urge him to sit by pushing gently on his hindquarters. It is important not to use too much pressure, or to push him down abruptly. Doing so could frighten, or even injure the dog. Rather, apply a steady downward pressure. Most dogs will recognize this as a sit command. It is important to say the word sit as you do this.

Repeat this procedure a few times by walking, stopping and sitting your dog. After a few repetitions, the dog will probably begin to sit down on his own every time he stops. It is important to say the word sit each time, so that the dog will eventually learn to respond to voice commands alone.

The "Stay" command

Like the sit command, the stay command is a vital building block to other, more advanced training. For instance, the stay command is vital to teaching the dog to come when called, which is in turn vital to off leash work.

The stay command can be made into an extension of the sit command. Have your dog sit, and while he is sitting, slowly back away. If the dog begins to follow you, as he probably will it first, come back to the dog and ask him to sit again. Repeat the process until you can reach the end of the leash without your dog getting up from a sitting position.

After the dog is reliably staying where you indicate, you can try dropping the leash and backing further away. It will probably take the dog some time to reliably stay where he is put without becoming distracted.

The "Down" command

The down command is another important part of any basic obedience training program. Teaching a dog to lie down on command is much more than an entertaining trick. The down command is very important in regaining control of a dog, or stopping a dog who is engaged in an inappropriate behavior.

The "Off" command

The off command is just as vital to as the other commands, and it forms the basis for later training, especially when training the dog not to chase people, cars, bikes, cats, etc.

For instance, when training a dog to remain still when a bicycle goes by, the owner would stand with the dog calmly on the leash. If the dog begins to strain against the leash, the owner sharply issues an "Off" command accompanied by a tug of the leash. Eventually the dog will learn to respond to the voice command alone.

Edwina Hanson runs a successful dog and owner training company. She is the author of many articles and reports about all aspects of dog training. Click on Complete Dog Care Report [http://www.k9-training-tips.com/free-dog-care-report.html] for a free 73 page report.