8 Tips on How to Train a Dog

Having a dog as your companion can be a true joy. However, you don't want your beloved buddy chewing your new shoes or going to the bathroom in the house. Therefore, you need to create a dog training plan to help your new puppy or dog understand the rules of the house.
What things should you focus on in dog training when you want your dog to understand the expected behaviors and even some fun tricks? Should you take dog training classes or complete dog training all on your own? The answer to these questions is that it depends. Take a look at the following dog training options to determine what type of dog training you want to provide for your canine best friend.
Possible dog training options include: a beginning obedience class that you can take through your local human society, dog supply stores such as PETCO, community recreation departments, and local colleges. These dog training classes can vary in price, time commitment, and personal attention. They are usually affordable and meet once a week at a community park. It is a great way to not only have your dog experience basic dog training, but socialize with other dogs as well.
If you have the financial resources and time you can hire a personal dog trainer. This type of trainer may be necessary if your pooch is having a hard time in basic classes and your dog training efforts aren't making a difference. Before you invest in a private dog trainer it is important to make an accurate assessment of your dog training methods. Often times a dog that is not following directions is the result of the poor dog training by the dog's owner.
A private dog trainer might be necessary if you are going to show your dog at dog shows. You can hire a dog trainer/handler or you can become one yourself. If you do, you must know the proper dog training techniques. You don't want to have Fido jump up on the judges during the competition so he must be trained thoroughly and correctly.
You can also search through dog training books, guides, and various resources. There are products that will help you complete dog training such as special collars and muzzles. You can effectively go through a dog training regime with your canine if you follow these eight dog training tips.
Tip #1: Many people start their dog on the path to dog training success by enrolling them in a basic obedience class. This is a great idea because you will learn how to teach your do basic commands such as "sit", "stay", and "heel".
You can teach these dog training commands by using verbal commands and physical actions. For example, right after you say the word "sit" you gently push your dog's bottom down onto the ground and put them in the sit position. Immediately say "good" and smile. Give them a tasty treat as well. Basically, you want to do as much as you can to reinforce the action of sitting when you say "sit".
Tip #2: Dogs act like absorbent sponges when it comes to learning proper behavior and tricks. If you do your job properly then dog training should be a hit. Your dog is ready and eager to learn proper behavior. They want to please you. Therefore, if they aren't following your instruction it might not be their fault. You might be giving confusing dog training instructions.
Tip #3: Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement and encouragement. Positive reinforcement such as acting excited and petting your dog when they do the right behavior help with your dog training efforts. It is a dogâÂ(TM)s nature to want to be close to you and make you happy. Showing encouragement and praise will help your dog much farther, much faster in their dog training. Make sure to encourage a dog through each dog training accomplishment, no matter how big or small.
Tip #4: Food is a powerful motivator when it comes to dog training. You will be hard pressed to find a dog that passes up food or a tasty treat. Dogs are always hungry and welcome any situation where food is involved.
Tip #5: Dog training should be a gradual process with regards to skill level and learning more complex commands. Give your dog time to understand new commands. They most likely won't learn it the first day you teach them. You will have to review the commands and proper behaviors often.
Tip #6: Have dog training sessions at various times throughout the day. Your dog needs periodic training to reinforce the proper behaviors. You dog's attention span can wane, so make sure to keep the training sessions to five to ten minutes long.
Tip #7: When you first start dog training work in environment that is free from distractions so your dog can focus on their behavior. Once your dog understands the basic commands you can try to use the commands in a busier environment.
One thing you may find is that your dog is distracted and seems to have forgotten the commands. Don't fret. This can happen because dogs tend to be situational learners and your dog just needs to work on the commands in the busier environment.
Tip #8: Too many treats equals an overweight dog. Dog training is a process that involves tasty treats, but too many of these treats can be a bad idea for your dog's waistline. Use small treats and wean your dog off treats as they understand the different commands. They will then rely on your praise as the positive reinforcement for each behavior.
These eight dog training tips will set you on the road to happy, healthy, obedient pooch.







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Barking Dog Problems, Anyone?

I see barking for dogs as talking for humans, so why would you want to stop barking dogs. They and we all need to express ourselves. Whether your dog is the most posh Poodle or the poorest Pavement special that nobody wanted, they all bark. As far as I know there is only one breed that does not bark and that's the Basenji. Dogs bark for any number of reasons and believe you me we will not understand all of them. A dog's logic is quite different to ours. Before your dog drives you barking mad, let's try and understand the reasons for your barking dog problems and what can possibly be done to stop barking dogs.
Barking Dog Problems-Stop barking dogs
As I said who knows what goes in the furry brains of our dogs. Basically we can attempt to understand barking dog problems by observing our dogs to determine the reasons which have triggered the barking. There is a huge list of barking triggers or reasons, some of which I have indicated below. I have also included some fixes or ideas to resolve the various types of barking dog problems as well. I suppose there are many people that will go to great lengths to stop barking dogs, so I have outlined some advice and provided some great links to assist with all barking dog problems.
Nervous barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? This is a major problem for many dog owners, how to stop barking dogs? Problem is, too many owners never get to see the real deal, because as the name implies, you've left the building and your dog is nervous. So this is what happens while you are out. As the dog becomes more anxious you will often find that the pitch of the barking becomes higher as well. Sometimes the dog will even start howling. Understandably, you neighbor is going to get mental and you will end up having a bad relationship with your neighbor and possibly face fines as well. If your dog is very attached to you and follows you like his tail follows him, then your departure will most probably lead to this type of behavior. You've separated yourself from the dog so the dog becomes anxious.
How to stop barking dogs! Dog's are smart, if you have a set routine when leaving, they will pick this up and start getting anxious the moment you pick up keys, or put on your shoes etc. You need to get to a point where your dog does not suspect you are leaving soon. Also, you need to train your dog to be ok with you being gone for different periods of time. So disrupt your routine when leaving, don't follow the same sequence whenever you leave your house. Also try leaving for a few minutes and come back again, so that the dog becomes comfortable with you not being around and has not started getting nervous or anxious yet. Don't give your dog to much attention or affection prior to leaving. The main point is that you need to break routine and keep your dog oblivious of your comings and goings. Effectively, what you dog does not know will not hurt him, or in this case, make the dog anxious. If you really cannot bear to see your dogs being anxious or afraid, there are options such as doggy day care or pet companions or sitters. There are already too many abandoned dogs at the pound due the inability of owners to get barking dog problems under control.
Territorial Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? These type of barking dog problems occur when the dog feels his territory is under threat. Yes, can you believe it dogs are territorial, who knew. If your dog can see strangers or other dogs through the perimeter fence on your property, guess what, he is going to think they are invaders and will bark to indicate that this is his territory. Often this barking is accompanied with growling sounds as well. The dog is just trying to let any likely intruder know that he means business. To some degree these barking dog problems are desirable, wouldn't you agree. It's another issue though when you're out walking the dog and he won't let up with this territorial barking.
How to stop barking dogs! Well as mentioned earlier, a little territorial barking may well be a good thing. Sometimes it is not such a good idea to stop barking dogs altogether. However, if you'd like to regain your position as the Alpha Dog, then you need to assert your authority on the dog. When you dog commences territorial barking, try and distract him by spraying water in his mouth or face and issue a short forceful command such as STOP NOW or similar. If he goes quiet then be sure to praise him to let him know that he is doing the right thing. As with all training of dogs, repetition is the key so as always, you'll need to persevere and be patient.
Attention Seeking Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? Well I think this is pretty much, self explanatory. The dog wants attention and will bark until he gets it. This barking also occurs when the dog is bored. If human contact is very limited or the dog has nothing to keep him occupied, especially younger dogs, then expect to see this type of attention seeking barking. Usually it's quite an irritating yap yap sound which can drag on and on. To stop barking dogs here, is certainly a highly desired goal.
How to stop barking dogs! For starters, you should try spending more time with your dog; it's generally good for the soul. Also try to ensure that your dog isn't locked in an area all day which is devoid of any dog entertainment. By this, I mean, make provision for some chew toys or similar with which the dog can entertain himself when he is alone. If you cannot be there for your dog all the time, consider getting him a sidekick or playmate. Who knows, there are so many unwanted dogs out there that need good homes. All they want is love and attention, a small price to pay for their loyalty and commitment and will certainly go a long way to stop barking dogs.
Fearful Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? I'm sure we have all seen this type of barking in our dogs at one time or another. If ever you have let of fireworks or there has been a loud thunderstorm, you may have seen your dog displaying fearful barking. This type of barking is very sharp and short and you can see in the dog's posture that he is afraid. Usually the dogs tail will be down low or even between his hind legs and his ears will be flattened on his head. These are sure indicators that your dog is afraid. Kind of difficult to blame dogs for these type of barking dog problems.
How to stop barking dogs! Well for starters, don't let fireworks off anywhere near your dog. Another idea is too train your dog to become familiar with loud sharp sounds such as thunder, loud noises etc. This can be achieved by playing back recordings of similar sounds to your dog, firstly at a low volume and gradually increasing the volume, until your dog becomes familiar with these sounds. It won't hurt to comfort the dog when they are fearful like this and that may well help to calm or even stop barking dogs. I'm sure we could all do with some re-assurance when we're afraid.
Barking dog problems -why stop barking dogs?
There are many more descriptions for a huge variety of dog barking, such as Frustration Barking, Greeting Barking, Compulsive Barking too name but a few. Generally you need to try and observe what brought on the barking and also observer your dog's posture when the barking is occurring. It stands to reason that if you have the trigger "cause" then you can most probably use a bit of common sense to stop barking dogs. There are also many products available to purchase which may resolve your barking dogs problems. Some of these products like the shock collar don't sit well with me, but each, to his, own. Imagine being shocked every time your voice went above a certain decibel rating.
Ultimately dogs were born with a voice and it's known as barking. Fair enough, some types of barking we would want to control or limit. As with people, some are just more barkative than others. Certainly if your dog's barking is going to land you in court with frustrated neighbors or at the mercy of the local authorities, then something will need to be done to stop the barking dog. In most cases the barking dog problems can be resolved by you educating yourself to train your dog. At the end of the day the, why stop barking dogs? Sometimes you may want your dog to bark especially if he is alerting you to something. Good luck and feel free to check out the links on the right to see some really comprehensive guides relating to this rather contentious issue.







Hi, my names Derek and I am a Dog Lover and Enthusiast. I am not an expert and do not have any degree or fancy diploma. I do not know everything but I know quite a lot of things. I've had over a lifetime of experience with dogs and I am learning new things about them each day. I hope that this does not come to an end. Life would be pretty boring if there was nothing new to discover. Why don't you join me in this quest for knowledge about "man's best friend" at my website http://www.besthappydog.com/ where I share my insights as well as many experts advice, you know, the one's with the degree's and diploma's.
I would also recommend subscribing to my newsletter and receiving this free book http://www.besthappydog.com/how-to-be-the-alpha-dog/, for some really great training advice and tips.
Hope to see you soon, thanks for reading my article.
Cheers for now.
Regards
Derek
LIVE...
LOVE...
LIFE....

to the MAX!

Basic Obedience Training - Secret of Having a Well-Behaved Dog - Training Tips For Different Dogs

A trained, obedient dog is a pleasure and a delight; a reliable, trustworthy and dependable companion whose behaviour will never give you cause for concern. On the other hand a spoiled, rowdy, pampered, undisciplined animal is a nuisance and frequently a source of great embarrassment. In the case of the larger, powerful breeds, an uncontrollable dog is a positive danger.
Although most dog owners would agree with the above, there are many who nevertheless shirk the responsibility of training their dogs because they mistakenly believe that it is a long, complex time-consuming process.
Obviously if you have ambitions to train your dog to Competition standard and to work with the perfect precision necessary for top honors in the Obedience ring, you must be prepared to devote a considerable amount of time to training. But if your purpose is simply to have a well-disciplined companion, you can achieve this goal without great effort and in a relatively short space of time.
If you are able to join one of the Obedience Dog Clubs in your area, so much the better. You will receive competent direction from an experienced trainer and in addition will have the opportunity of allowing your dog to come into contact with other dogs, which is a very great advantage.
Let us assume however that for various reasons this is not possible or convenient.
At the outset it is important for you to accept the fact that in order to have a well-behaved dog it is necessary for your dog to respect you in addition to loving you. You will command this respect by being firm, calm and confident in your manner without creating any confusion in your dog's mind.
How can you can command this respect? This is not as difficult as this may seem. There are certain basic rules to follow. Guide your dog in such a way that he has no doubt whatsoever as to what is required of him. Insist when you give a command it is in fact a command not a request. Praise him lavishly and unstintingly when he obeys your command. Reprimand him suitably and appropriately when he refuses to obey your command.
This is the basis of all obedience training. Praise for obeying a command and reprimand for disobeying a command.
Of these two factors, the question of reprimand is clearly the more difficult to apply. It also gives rise to the greatest difference of opinion in training methods.
Whereas it is virtually impossible to praise a dog too lavishly, and even if excessive praise is given no harm can result, an unnecessarily harsh reprimand of a sensitive young dogs for a relatively minor misdemeanor will have serious consequences and set your training back many months.
Understand the command.
Another point that should always be borne in mind is that you must always be absolutely certain that your dog understands the command you have given. If you have the slightest doubt on this score, the dog must be given the benefit before he is reprimanded.
All commands must be given in a firm, confident manner without raising your voice unnecessarily. There is no need whatsoever to act as if you were a drill sergeant on a parade ground. Any screaming or loss of control on your part - even if you consider you are being deliberately provoked - will only jeopardize the training process.
You want your dog to respect you by accepting the fact that you are someone prepared to guide him but who will not allow yourself to be taken advantage of by disobedience.
This can be accomplished without loss of control on your part. It can be accomplished by reprimanding him adequately and suitably for any disobedience. As soon as he accepts the fact that your commands are not requests, will respect you. The whole relationship between you and your dog hinges on this attitude.
How to reprimand
Now to turn to the important question of how to reprimand for disregarding a command you have given. It must be accepted that the temperaments of different dogs are as varied as that of human beings. The temperaments of different breeds vary enormously and even within a breed certain strains vary in sensitivity. Dog and bitches will also react differently to reproof.
Because of this it is most important for you to assess accurately the level of sensitivity of the dog you are training. For example, a mild correction such as a sharp "No! You bad dog!" could quite easily be sufficient reproof for a sensitive Border Collie bitch in order to bring about the required change in behaviour. On the other hand a boisterous, Great Dane male or Rottweiler would, in some instances, require a more vigorous and pronounced indication of disapproval.
It must be remembered however, that one should not fall into the trap of categorizing breeds with regard to behaviour patterns.
In mentioning the boisterous Great Dane this by no means is meant to suggest that all Great Danes are in any way obstinate or difficult to train. There are tremendous variations in temperament within the breeds. In fact a young harlequin Great Dane that I have at the moment responds so readily to commands t it only necessary for me to give them in a very soft voiced - almost as a whisper!
The same applies to Shepherds. I have had obstinate, self-willed Shepherds, while others I have owned have been so eager to please they have been an absolute delight to train. They have required an absolute minimum of effort in training.
When you are absolutely certain your dog understands your command and there is no confusion as to what you want him to do, it might be necessary for you to give him a really hard jerk of the leash. Before doing so make certain his training collar is of sufficient length to give positive effect to the jerk. You should accompany the jerk with a very definite and unmistakable "No!"
Limits to the extent of training.
It might be well to mention at this stage that with certain dogs there are limits to the extent of training to which you can hope to aspire. Now this may sound very negative advice indeed but it is raising false hopes to pretend that every animal can reach the same level of training.
Certain breeds are noted for their independence of spirit and in fact devotees of these breeds admire them for these very qualities. For example, it is highly unlikely if your happen to be training a Daschund - as lovable as this breed of dog happens to be - or a miniature Schnauzer - that you will reach top honors in Obedience tests. This in no way is meant to suggest that your Daschund or Schnauzer cannot be trained to become very well disciplined, obedient and responsive.
Patience, understanding and application of the principle of praise and reprimand will achieve the desired results with any dog. But with certain dogs it requires more patience and perseverance than with others.
Choice of breed to train.
If you are an ambitious and competitive type of person and anxious to excel in Obedience tests, it will be necessary for you to be very judicious in your choice not only with regard to the breed you select, but also to the strain within the breed. There is no doubt whatsoever that some dogs are more amenable to training than others and the training process will involve far less time and effort
This applies particularly to the German Shepherd Dog, a breed with which I have been associated for more than fifty years. Any competitor in German Shepherd Dog working trials will tell you that if you hope to be successful in this highly competitive field it is necessary to be very selective in your choice of the Shepherd you intend training.
A examination of the pedigrees of the top winners in German Shepherd Dog working trials in Germany, the United States and Britain will reveal that certain "working" lines consistently produce the top winners. There is no question that intelligence and -more important - willingness to work are inherited traits.
In all probability however, you already have a dog. You love him dearly and have no intention of parting with him merely because his ancestors were not noted for their working qualifications.
Training dogs with different temperaments.
In order to assist you with your training methods, let us try and simplify the process and deal with three distinct types of temperaments frequently found in dogs.
Obviously there are many variations and many traits overlaps but for the purpose of this article let us deal with three distinct type of temperaments and examine the training methods necessary in each case.
1.Dog Number One.
The highly-strung, over-exuberant dog.
Here is a bundle of nervous energy; a highly-strung, excitable, over-exuberant, extremely noisy, boisterous animal. Sometimes he barks excessively without any apparent reason. Often he is over-aggressive towards others dogs and even humans.
2. Dog Number two.
The shy, timid dog.
This dog is very shy, timid and completely lacking in self-confidence. He shrinks from human contact and when confronted with any situation with which he is unable to cope, he either backs into a corner and barks hysterically or otherwise rolls on his back in abject submissiveness.
3. Dog Number three.
The lazy dog.
This animal is quiet, docile to the point of disinterest, sluggish, dully and lazy, completely without enthusiasm except for his dinner dish.
Now we have three distinct types of dog - possibly somewhat exaggerated - but nevertheless easily recognizable. Our objective in each case is the same - to have a well-disciplined animal that will obey our commands,
Because this article is limited in scope let us presume that our initial training objective is to have a dog that will walk quietly at heel without pulling, dragging, straining or lagging. Let us examine how this can be achieved using the above three dogs as training examples.
For our purpose we shall require a leather lead and a training collar of sufficient length and sufficient strength. Place the collar over the neck in such a way that when the leash is jerked the collar will tighten and when the lead if relaxed the collar fits loosely. This simple training collar is a remarkable training device that will work equally well with all three dogs.
Let us commence with Dog Number 1. We will to refer him as "Blitz".
"BLITZ."
With your ball of fire on our left side, you step briskly forward. The dog is given the command "Heel". Holding the leash very firmly in your right hand you nevertheless make certain there is sufficient slack to give the dog the impression that he is NOT firmly restrained. In fact, because of this slackness, the dog is uncertain whether he is on lead or not
As expected the dog proceeds for exactly five seconds and then like a bolt he surges forward. With leather leash very firmly held by the right hand - or both hands if you prefer - you allow the dog to bolt forward until almost at the end of the lead. At this point you simply do a smart about turn. Note: There is no reprimand whatsoever!
In fact not a word is said. If your timing has been correct - and this may require some practice - a very surprised ball of fire will find himself being air-borne and completely jerked off his feet by his momentum.
He turns in mid-air to find you walking in the opposite direction At this stage you call his name very pleasantly and enthusiastically. "Good boy, Blitz! Heel boy!" and you pat your left leg encouragingly.
A somewhat confused "Blitz" comes running up to your left to receive his just rewards - lavish praise and a loving pat on his head!
Remember No word of reprimand should be given. "Blitz" was told to heel. He didn't heel and the jerk he received will not be associated with any unpleasantness caused by you. It was entirely his own fault; due to his own ineptness and clumsiness in not staying close to your left side.
There will be occasions in the future where you will be required to jerk the lead as a definite reprimand and accompany the jerk with a vocal reprimand. "Blitz" will then have no doubt in his mind that this jerk is a reprimand. But at this stage our purpose is to confuse "Blitz" into believing that the discomfort he received by being jerked off his fee was entirely his own fault.
After no more than 4 or 5 incidents of this nature a very disconcerted "Blitz" will suspect that every cat that darts in his path and every motor-cyclist who happens to ride by is merely a trick that has been devised to fool him into rushing after it and being jerked off his feet.
Quite soon you will be well on your way to having a dog who is a pleasure to take for a stroll because he heels comfortably at your side in spite of every possible distraction.
Dog number 2. "Flinch"
Quite clearly the method we used with Dog Number 1 will be unsuitable with dog Number 2 - the shy, timid dog who is lacking in self-confidence.
This dog - le us refer him as "Flinch - is so lacking in confidence that he is constant need of praise and assurance. Let it be quite clear that if one has the patience, perseverance and calm temperament to deal with a dog of this nature it is possible to have a remarkably good worker who will do everything possible to please you and earn your praise. He will ask nothing more from life than your praise and he will become absolutely devoted to you.
But, it should be stressed, dogs of this type do require a tremendous amount of patience, understanding and - above all - self-control. Whereas it is possible to speak harshly to most dogs without serious consequences, a dog of this nature will react most unfavorably to harshness and one thoughtless reprimand can set you back weeks of hard work in building up his confidence.
Dog refuses to budge.
After placing the collar on your "Flinch" and attaching the lead he is more than likely to set his hind-quarters on the ground and refuse to budge; or he will twist himself around your legs - pull to the right - to the side - dart off in the direction of home and do absolutely everything anything but the "heel" you have commanded him.
In this case you must resort once again to a little trickery, but of a different kind. Try and let him associate the training collar and the leash and the stroll with something pleasant. In your left hand or your left pocket keep little pieces of boiled liver that you have dried in the oven, or some other delicacy. If he refuses to budge coax him - encourage him. Once he has come to your left side praise him with great enthusiasm and give him a tit-bit.
As you walk he will, haltingly, be tempted to follow. With very gentle jerks of the lead, accompanied by soothing words of encouragement, keep on re-assuring him how good and clever he is. It might try your patience but eventually you will have gained his confidence. Any distractions that may present themselves must be accompanied by slight jerks of the lead. No words of reprimand, remember. But plenty of praise when he eventually comes to heel.
Regard this type of dog as a challenge to your perseverance and self-control. If you are capable of meeting this challenge - and capable of controlling (or at least hiding) your understandable and justifiable bouts of irritability, you will eventually have an excellent Obedience worker of whom you will one day be justifiably proud.
Do not continue to "baby talk", coddle and pamper this type of dog.
There is another important point to remember with regard to this highly sensitive, nervous type of dog. Once you have managed to overcome the first step of your training, which was the extreme reluctance to walk at heel and you have a dog that now walks willingly at heel, you must start to modify your method of training.
Very often owners with dogs, who have this nervous disposition, persist in to trying to reassure their on every occasion they demonstrate fear when faced with some unaccustomed unusual object or situation.
If, for example, while out walking with the dog, the animal is frightened by some unusual object in the street, the owner resorts to soft, soothing, "baby-talk", words of encouragement:
This is quite wrong. All that is happening is that the owner is endorsing the dog's nervous behavior. In effect the message the dog receives is: "I quite understand your concern. It is quite alright for you to be frightened". Instead of reassuring the dog with exaggerated words of reassurance and soft talking, the owner should behave in a completely, unconcerned manner with words and actions that reflect the following attitude. "Don't be silly now. You are acting foolishly. There is nothing to worry about"
Distract the dog. Do a few obedience exercises. "Sit" "Down". Speak in a mater-of-fact tone of voice. Act unconcerned as if there is nothing to worry about.
The lesson should be clear. In the initial stages of training you can reassure and encourage as much as you consider necessary so that you can overcome the initial hurdle of the dog not wanting to heel. But one you have got past this stage, move on. Do not go back to kindergarten classes.
Dog Number 3. The lazy dog. "Dozy"
The third type of dog - the dully, sluggish, and lazy dog - requires yet another approach. Here the enthusiasm must come from you. Once again it is important to remember that you must no show irritation as much as you are goaded. Muster as much enthusiasm a you can place the collar around "Dozy's" neck.
Walk briskly forward giving the command "heel" pleasantly and brightly. As "Dozy" lags behind - as he inevitably will - give little jerks on the lead and accompany these jerks with sounds of encouragement. Use your left hand to pat his hear with great affection. Show excitement as you walk briskly forward and remember that even though you are tempted to give the lazy blighter a smart kick in the rear, resist the temptation. Do not show any irritation at all.
One advantage of the lazy dog is that very often he is also a very greedy dog. Once again you can make judicious use of the tit-bit to encourage him to walk, closely at heel. But obviously do not make a habit of this form of encouragement because he will soon come to expect it as his just dessert every time and will not be satisfied with mere praise.
Because a dog of this type is not usually particularly sensitive you can correct lagging by turning sharply to the right without giving "dozy" any prior warning. While walking forward, and aware that "Dozy" is a few paces behind, pivot suddenly on your left leg and lunge sharply right. Accompanying your turn to the right with a sharp jerk on the lead as "Dozy" is caught unawares. He is forced to increase his pace in order to catch up with you. Praise him enthusiastically when he eventually does come to your left side.
Even though the approach is quite different with these three types of dogs, it is clear that the basic principle remains the same. When using the training collar to teach the dog to heel correctly, the dog must be left with the distinct impression that the jerk and discomfort that follows are his own fault.
The dog soon comes to realize that when he corrects his behavior not only does the discomfort cease but there is also the additional incentive of praise from his handler.
Use the training collar correctly.
Take full advantage of the training collar during these early stages of training.- the jerk followed by praise. At a later stage of training when the dog is required to work off lead, you will not be able to do so. But at this early stage of training make full use of the training collar to help you establish the correct relationship between you and your dog. In this way your dog will learn not only to love you but also to respect you. He will become an eager- to- please, willing, obedient, lovable companion.







This article is one of many that appears in the website http://www.freedogadvice.com There is also valuable information with regard to health, feeding and suggestions with regard to the choice of a suitable breed. For those interested in German Shepherds, there are in-depth articles about show and working bloodlines, with particular reference to top winning dogs in Germany - past and present.
Dennis Fisher has been involved with dogs as a Judge, Breeder and Director of Obedience training for his all-breed Obedience training Club. Although his special interest is German Shepherds, he has also personally owned and trained dogs of the follwing breeds: Great Danes, French Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Schipperkes, Dobermanns, and Fox Terriers. A great variety of articles covering a wide range of subjects can be found on his website http://www.freedogadvice.com

10 Clever Ways to Spot the Best & Worst Dog Trainers on the Web Or in Your Town!

Many average trainers teach "average group classes," charge you an "average price" and have, well... that "average" knowledge and skill about dogs, dog training, dog behavior and canine psychology. Most owners who don't know better or who don't really care about these facts, just settle with such trainers and end up with "average results" or even worse-NO RESULTS-in training their dogs! In contrast, the Master Minds I'll be describing in this chapter aren't your average at all and are known to beat the odds.
So who emerges from the pack? There is an amazing energy and spirit about these individuals which you'll notice right away that goes far beyond dog training. In fact, they know it is much more than dealing with dogs, and this is where I'll open your eyes to the traits and qualities of the SMARTEST and the most successful dog experts in the business. Because of their knowledge, skill and persona, they are not only making it--but making it big with class and integrity. Again, don't forget that I'm referring to the SMARTEST, so you don't think that they just got lucky for being at the "right place," at the "right time" or by meeting the "right person." Even if that was the case for a few to some degree, before you know it, they took over and kept on paddling on their own.
I learned a long time ago that if you want to get better in anything, you have to put your ego aside and learn from much better and smarter minds than yourself.
Sometimes this simply came down to hiring the best expert money can buy. (I've also learned a lot from the worst-of-the-worst. After all, this is where you learn what NOT to do.) After studying those who were considered to be as the "real deal," I've noticed that they all came from a totally different class and mentality, and it's no wonder why their success rate was so hard to ignore. When put through the test, they all possessed these ten qualities about them:
1. They Care about You, Your Dog and Their Reputation
You see, it's not always about how much you know or how great you are, but it is also about how much you "care." This simply means these trainers are truly nice people. The old saying, "nice guys finish last," isn't their motto. Studies have shown that nice people live longer, are happier, get more referrals, are always surrounded by friends and relatives, rarely get sued, and rarely get killed. Some may also have a great sense of humor. Sorry, only some. We all know someone with a sense of humor and know that this shows that they love what they do, don't let things bother them as much, and care to make others if not laugh, at least smile here and there. Why the majority of dog trainers are so rude, mean, and disrespectful and act like Mr./Mrs. Know-It-All, is beyond me. It's no secret that most of the time you can tell a lot about someone the minute you talk to them on the phone or in person. That again is, if, you are even able to reach any of them on the phone. Which brings up the fact of caring, once again.
Those who truly CARE not only will get back to you, but often try to reach you immediately. They know that you may need help right away!! You'll soon find out that most dog trainers leave you hanging and you start to grow gray hair waiting for a call back or an e-mail.
Once you are finally able to get a live person on the phone, make sure you get a good vibe from the very start, if not, why bother? This simply means no matter how good they may be, you will be stuck with a jerk, psycho, weirdo, nut job and the list goes on and on. Women are much better than men with their intuition. They say, "It has to feel right." Or "I didn't get a good vibe from him/her." If it the person makes you feel uncomfortable by being too pushy, rude, condescending, or there is something you don't like about him/her, then you could be stuck with this person in your home, in private, or for six to eight weeks down the line.
Top trainers usually answer your tough questions with patience and respect and don't mind or get offended by how much you challenge their knowledge or expertise. These individuals don't just deliver, but often OVER-deliver. This is because they care about their image and their reputation and truly want to stand out from the pack. They know going that extra mile WILL get them that extra attention. After all, how many times have you hired a painter, a contractor, an attorney, or even a babysitter who disappointed you with their poor work ethics? They did a poor job or didn't care much. As some say, "They just go with the flow," and never care about any constructive criticism from ANYONE. You simply don't see that "wow factor" or that "pizzazz" in their work. Noooooooo, I didn't say pizza again. So put down the Parmesan cheese.
If you've already hired a dog trainer in the past, you probably went out of your way to make sure you were hiring a "pro," just to find out that they were definitely a "pro" but also a pro in doing a lousy job or a pro in--"ripping you off!" How fast someone gets back to you, or even if, they even bother to get back to you are all the qualities you should look for. For example, a lot of group class trainers if they don't have a class starting soon, or their class happens to be full, won't even bother to call you back. They even get lazy to mention this on their answering machine. This would never happen with those who actually care about you and your dog.
Once you get to actually talk to these individuals, you can't help it but notice how honest, caring, genuine, and professional they come across.
Whether it is in person, on the phone, or by e-mail, the ones who know they are on top of their game never sound pushy or desperate. In fact, they know not everyone recognizes, appreciates, or even deserves the very best. This is just a fact of life. Those who are among the best-of-the-best in the world of dog training, are considered to be as remarkable teachers/counselors and don't get mad when I add this-even great therapists. The truth is, that the majority of dog owners have no technique, get nervous, act tense, are too harsh with their dog, get too loud, or they can't get firm enough if and when needed. And what's even more sad is none of the trainers who they even hired in the past, bothered to point out their GOOD qualities either. Everybody knows it's not that hard to point out someone's weaknesses. What makes a good trainer brilliant is his/her ability to praise the owners' good habits while correcting their mistakes in a courteous manner. Unfortunately the majority of dog trainers lack people skills and are famous for treating the owners like dogs. I had to learn this the hard way. So the ones that DO make a positive impact among dog owners are the ones that know there is a difference between insulting someone and giving a critique.
You see, there are thousands of great "trainers" out there, thousands--but only a few great "instructors!" Training and teaching the owners is where lies the real challenge.
2. Their Training Method Is Backed by Common Sense
As a writer I hate saying this, but please don't believe everything you read-especially things that just don't make any sense. If you don't see any logic or rationality behind it, how do you suppose your poor dog is going to make any sense out of it? Here's an example. I have a client who owns a Cocker Spaniel that was vicious toward dogs and children. The behaviorists advised her to do lots of parallel walks with bag of treats to use when she ran into other dogs and kids. The dog would stop eating the treats and STILL lunge at any dog they encountered. I guess he saw them as a dessert after those yummy treats. Again, there was no common sense behind the behaviorist's advice, was there?
When in doubt, always ask yourself: Does this seem rational? Am I getting anywhere with this? Are people going to laugh at me?
Even with what you read in my book or on my website, observe it with an open mind and maybe TRY it first, and then be the judge. Once you try something, then you can be certain whether it did or did not work for you and your dog. Otherwise you are just relying on assumptions instead of facts. The same rule applies if you are instructed by your trainer, see it on television, were instructed by your trainer in a group class, or even if it comes from someone with a Ph.D. you need to stop and ask yourself where's the logic and practicality behind their advice? Be smart about it and don't let others brainwash you by trying methods that have no rationality to support them. Smart trainers don't mind asking you, "Does this make sense to you?" or "Do you see the logic behind what we are trying to accomplish?" Again, if it doesn't make any sense, please don't make a fool out of yourself.
Smart Dogs - Dumb Trainers:
Trainers who recommend that you should bark at your dog, growl at your dog, yelp like a dog, or ignore your dog's bad habits such as jumping up on you, barking at you, don't make sense and their tactics won't work. If they do, knock yourself out. Folks, we were taught to use common sense from a very early age in kindergarten. In case you forgot, the teaching was:
"Stop and Think." It wasn't "Go for it Chopper! Then we'll think of the consequence." (Now for some of us, getting the lesson afterward works much better. I guess as long as we "get it" that's all it really matters, doesn't it?)
3. They Have an Uncanny Ability to Pay Attention to Details
Yes, details my dog-loving friend. These experts are like a sponge and absorb everything and hardly miss even the smallest details. ( I've been told that I'm like that. Just in case it will come as a shock for those of you who prefer to hire me in person.) Whether people request that I go to them or if they prefer to send their dogs to me to be trained or rehabilitated, like a skilled crime scene investigator, I'll ask questions and then observe everything for myself, and I do mean EVERYTHING. By now, you should have gotten an idea of what I'm referring to by paying attention to details. If not, please be sure to read the chapter on (Questions you need to ask before hiring ANY expert.) But let me be a bit specific. I observe your technique, your posture, voice tone, attitude and overall perception. Are you firm, easy-going, loud, harsh, stubborn or depending on your mood, a mixture of all? How about too nervous, scared or maybe you think that saying "NO" to your dog might hurt his feelings and we may never see that tail wag again?
The importance of such details is why I cannot emphasize enough how crucial working with an expert in "private" really is. Because of my attention to details, even if I train your dog WITHOUT your involvement, I'll still manage to accomplish much more compared to a group class full of twenty dogs.
All the topnotch trainers you study, you'll notice that every single one of them have trained their own dogs WITHOUT any distractions first. So why should it be any different with you?
Top trainers always introduce distractions to their dogs systematically and this is why you truly see a huge difference in their dogs' performance and command response. They strongly believe that it's not fair to expect you or your dog to learn properly in an unfamiliar setting with lots of different distractions, and anticipate seeing a real difference in the dog's learning progress. It's even worse in group classes where there are lots of other dogs distracting you by constantly pulling on their leashes, barking, whimpering, lunging, or acting hyper around each another. Bottom line, by working in private, you'll see things from both the owner's and from the dog's perspective. Hiring an expert in private is the only way you'll be able to ask questions that pertain "specifically" to you and your needs. Top dog experts know this approach is THE BEST and fastest way to get maximum results and swear by it.
4. They Will Make Sure You Don't End Up With a "Half-Trained" Dog
This means you see a "practical" approach behind their training technique. Remember, your method has to work anywhere and anytime, or else you're wasting your time and setting yourself and your poor dog up for a failure. Allow me to clarify. These trainers will make "sure" that your dog is NOT just another half-trained dog. You know the ones that:
* Mind their owners in a group class, but act like idiots at home.

* Listen perfectly when you have treats, but ignore you otherwise.

* Listens only when the trainer's around, but hardly at all at other times.

* All training goes out the window when you run into strangers or other dogs.
That's what I mean by a "half-trained dog." Elite trainers always prepare you and your dog to become street-smart. Competition training, show confirmation, agility training and making your dog do tricks sure look cute and are even impressive, but are not applicable out in the real world. The majority of dog owners do not seem to really care for them anyway. Always remember this: If your training technique can't be applied in your home, in your neighborhood, or on your day-to-day routines, sorry, you can't refer to it as "real-life" dog training. This means you've been wasting your time and money with the wrong method, wrong trainer, or with wrong group classes.
You see, if a method is effective, you'll see it working immediately, and if it's just nonsense-- you'll see it too. This is how top experts often deliver jaw-dropping results within seconds.
I always tell my clients: "By the second lesson, we could talk about how bad your dog used to behave, and how he has changed for the better already." If you've paid attention to my video clips on my site, you may be surprised to learn that most of those dogs have been trained by me in matter of minutes. I get the dog under control immediately and make them mind me on the spot. The rest is just polishing up, and making sure the dog obeys the owner. After all, it is NOT my dog and the dog should obey the owner.
5. Their Training Method Even Works from a Distance and Off-Leash
Only a few get to this level. You want to eventually have COMPLETE CONTROL of your dog without even being leashed anywhere, anytime and in front of the most tempting distractions the outside world throws at you. This means across the room, across the street, in the backyard, front yard and even from far away with just the tone of your voice. I said your voice, not screaming from the top of your lungs. Top trainers proudly advertise this specialty and can pull it off with their own dogs. Only true professionals can deliver such results. You'll find that most trainers are considered as part-timers and hobbyists. That sad truth is, amateurs rarely are able to get your dog reliably off-leash trained.
It's no secret that there is a leash law. Which is why having your dog completely
"off-leash trained" isn't just cool these days, but a NECESSITY!
You and your pooch need to be prepared for that "what if" moment. What if your dog bolts out the door, manages to slip out of her collar, lunges and breaks her collar, attacks a dog, a cat, or maybe everything was fine and your dog was running free enjoying herself, when all of sudden ________ (you fill in the blank). The fact is, no matter how careful or responsible you may be, your dog will STILL GET LOOSE and will make a fool out of you. Only a very small percentage of trainers have the expertise to teach you the true art of off-leash training; make sure you look in the right places. A huge list of my clientèle includes those who are dying to get their dogs completely off-leash trained. This is because the trainer in which they've worked with, didn't have a clue on how to get his/her own dog off-leash trained--let alone be able to help someone else with it. Or, you see the trainers' dog was truly the only real "trained dog" in there, but they just can't get the poor owners to achieve the same results with their dogs. How sad and pathetic!
6. Your Dog's Age NEVER Matters to Them
Whether be a ten week old pup or ten years adult dog, your dog is smart enough to learn what is right and what is wrong. What is acceptable and what isn't. Your dog's annoying bad habits such as: Barking, Jumping, Growling, Snapping, Bolting and Not Being Fully House Trained, along with any other bad habits or even responding to your daily commands aren't impossible tasks for the real experts to overcome. This means that they are well-educated and experienced in solving your dog's day-to-day issues and love to take on the challenge. Why let your older dog or your young puppy run your life for you, when you are the one who is paying all the bills and providing everything else? The least your dog can do is to respect and obey your commands and respect the rules of your house. Is that too much to ask?
7. They Gladly Accept Even Hard-to-Train Breeds
Real experts in dogs are skilled, versatile, and welcome the challenge of working with stubborn AND dominant dogs. It doesn't really matter to them whether your dog is labeled as aggressive, un-trainable, red zone, or hopeless. They are willing to accept the risk and give you and your dog another honest chance. Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, Akitas, Dobermans, German Shepherds, Bull Dogs (English or American), Chow Chows, Shar Pei, and those giant breeds that look like Pit Bulls on steroids. I am talking about: Presa Canario, Cane Corso, Argentino Dogo and Kevin Salemo, are just to name a few among the hard-to-train breeds. You may find this hard to believe, but even Labrador Retrievers can be a challenge to train. This is because they are known to be very strong, hyper, over-friendly and easily distracted.
You see, when a dog expert is willing to accept a case of an aggressive, sensitive, overprotective, excessive barker, whiner, or even one that's a bit unpredictable, that's when they HAVE TO rely on years of experience, knowledge, skill and even their instinct. This is because they are a true dog lover and don't discriminate against certain breeds and experienced enough to take on any challenge. Small, big, scary, wussy, mixed, pure breed or not, it doesn't make not one bit of difference to them. A dog, is simply another dog to them.
8. Their Method Might Be Firm, but It is Also Kind
Let's face it. No parent can ever raise a child properly without being firm and kind. Firm alone may still get you some results, but that "kind" is what makes it more of a loving and healthy relationship. I met a trainer years ago that had a super dog. This dog was one of the most well-trained German Shepherds I have ever seen. The sad part is, when his trainer would release him and send him off to play, the dog would still stand there and look at him for another command. Yes you guessed it. The dog became a soldier, a robot that just couldn't have fun anymore. He wouldn't even want to or even knew how, to play with my dogs. How sad. I told the trainer that you are definitely this dog's master, but not his best friend. He shrugged and said, "Kevin, you can be his best friend. I don't really care about stuff like that."
In order to make sure you don't end up with such a dog, you need to make sure you are also your dog's "buddy." When your dog makes a mistake, you need to correct it at that "exact" moment, and also praise and reward it lavishly on the spot. As long as you don't confuse firm with harsh or abusive, you should be fine. Just don't forget. Firm could be a simple as tugging on the leash when you catch your dog misbehave, and follow it with praise and affection when you see him obey or stop an unwanted behavior. It could also be to stop your dog's lunging, jumping, barking, snapping or even crotch/butt sniffing. Just holding tightly on your dog's leash for your life isn't training, that's called restraining. Do you want to train your dog or restrain it? That's what I thought. Now you'll always know when you see a true pro. They make working with all dogs seem so easy, that you swear they can even do it blindfolded. Your dog will listen and obey them without any yelling or the need of excessive force.
You'll see the smoothness and the flow in their technique, as your dog performs at his best right before your eyes--as if it is "their" dog and NOT yours.
This simply reflects the fact that they've worked with thousands of different breeds of dogs, have years of hands-on experience, and possess that amazing ability to accurately read dogs' temperament and body language with no effort and be able to apply their training technique on your dog. Their uncanny ability to read dogs so well and have the confidence and the skill to back it up, is why they are so well known for delivering such outstanding results.
9. They Let You Experiment with the Use of Different Training Tools
You can gather the best dog experts in the world, don't provide them any leashes, no collars, no harnesses, no whistles, no ropes, no toys, no treats and no tennis balls--they might as well be in their swimming suits. Then throw in some unruly dogs in there. You'll see that there won't be much that anyone can do. Unless one of the possess some kind of mind control like Criss Angel over the dogs and people, which I really would like to see for myself to believe, there isn't much any of these top experts can do without the right training tools.
Think about it for a moment. Can you do YOUR job without your pen, paper, phone, a desk, your vehicle, your computer or the certain tools and equipments that make your job run easier and smoother? Maybe you can. But you might as well be traveling back in time with your time-machine hundreds years back. Don't you agree that certain tools DO work better and faster? It's not much different when it comes to dog training tools. If there is a tool that works best on your dog, these trainers will let you try it. They truly use every weapon they can get their hands on and make sure you are able to control your dog in ANY situation and are happy with your results. This is because they always think outside the box.
Diverse Trainers know from experience that there isn't that "one magical tool" that works on every dog, every time. They improvise to make sure what works today, also does tomorrow!
After all, why use a tool that stopped working, was never effective in the first place, or doesn't even seem to faze your dog when you REALLY need it to work? Again, I am referring to see if that tool of your choice is truly as effective around strangers and the dogs in which your pooch is not familiar with. Let's not forget the cats, kids running around, or the joggers. Every one of these examples are considered as your daily distractions, don't they? Most trainers these days will have a nonsense tool that might have worked with a smaller, less dominant, less hyper and not as aggressive dog, hoping it will have the same effect with a much larger, stronger and far more aggressive dog. It reminds of "Bringing a knife to a gun fight." What's sad is that the majority of these trainers will stubbornly refuse to let the poor clients be diverse by trying a different tool. This especially doesn't make sense to me when you've exhausted the use of many different training tools up to this point and are desperate to try anything that would work.
In conclusion, this all comes down to finding a tool that is a best match according to your physical strengths, limitations, coordination AND your dog's size, speed, breed, prey drive and how much your dog responds to you with and without challenging distractions.
10. They Rarely Give Up and Follow a "Diverse Method"
Topnotch trainers never believe that your dog cannot be trained. Their way of thinking is completely different. They focus more on HOW they can help you train your dog. This means they are willing to explore different methods if and when needed. In a nutshell, what makes these trainers brilliant is their ability to mix different methods of training to custom fit what works best for you and your pooch. All that really matters to them is making sure that the method works-and it works "every-single-time." Sometimes this means you need to get firm with your dog, and sometimes you should ease up and cut him some slack.
There you have it. Now do you believe me? Didn't I say that they truly make only one percent of the dog experts in the industry?
You'll agree with me that, there are many trainers out there, but only a few masters. These are the true qualities of the legendary dog trainers. Such greatness is extremely hard to come by. As I mentioned earlier, I strongly believe that they make less than one percent of dog experts in the industry. They are surely the most highly paid canine experts money can buy. In meeting these individuals I found them to be amazing. They were excellent trainers and amazing instructors. They were extremely confident, and sometimes even a bit cocky--but always backed it up with their knowledge and skill. This reminds me of my what I always say,
"It's good to be humble unless you are pressed against the wall and only then should you be able to CRUSH your competition." Or, "Act strong when you're weak and weak when you are strong." ( That last one isn't mine. I borrowed it from a boxing movie.)
Most of these individuals have dedicated years of their lives in making a difference by helping dogs, dog owners, and even other dog trainers. Remember, there is a big difference between having a well-behaved dog and possessing the technique, the knowledge, the patience, and the proper communication skills to TEACH it to others. These experts have mastered all of ten of these principles! This is why they are incredibly successful and come highly recommended by everyone. If you are a trainer reading this, to become one of the greatest, you need to improve in all of these ten areas. That's right. Not just good, better, or excellent, but to be among the greatest icons, dog phenomena, and the true legends. Teaching group classes on the side every Wednesday night at seven won't do it.
Is there a legend in your town? Maybe, maybe not. Most of my clients travel hours to work with me. Some even have me fly to their city and sometimes even COUNTRIES because they weren't impressed by any other expert locally, or were told that their dog was hopeless.
There are lots of experts, but only a few legends. Isn't this true in any profession?







Kevin Salem is considered to be one of the brightest minds in the world of dog training and one of the pioneers in his field. It's hard to paint Kevin's image with the same brush as others, as his unique way of thinking, writing, and philosophy truly makes him distinct.
If you are a fan of Cesar Millan, it will be difficult not to fall in love with Kevin's book. You'll finally be able to put an end to your dog's: Jumping Up, House-training, Play-biting, Barking, Leash Pulling, Destructiveness, Bolting Out, Over-protectiveness-- to complete off-leash response. 10 week old pups to 10 yr old adults, all breeds welcome. Kevin offers Doggie Boot Camp or House Calls Nationwide. Try his book, hire him in person, or see him put his eyebrow raising skills into action by visiting his award-winning web site: http://www.DogSecrets.com

Preventing and Controlling Separation Anxiety in Dogs

Most of us love our dogs dearly and are lucky to get the same degree of affection in return. This mutual admiration society is a large part of why so many people choose to have dogs as part of their families. But, as with most relationships, time spent apart is a normal and necessary component. Dogs are superbly social creatures. Add to this that the typical pet dog spends the vast majority of their time with a small group of people (their family) and it should come as no surprise that it can take some effort to ensure that ther is a sense of calm when your dog is left alone. Unfortunately, many dogs suffer from some degree of separation anxiety. This can range from a dog who follows you around the house and is mildly distressed when left alone to a dog who is essentially a 'velcro dog,' unable to leave your side for even a moment, and who is extremely anxious when you leave. This anxiety can result in destructive behaviors such as inappropriate chewing, house soiling, excessive barking, and even self mutilating behaviors (such as chewing at their own fur and skin and creating irritation and raw spots). Separation anxiety can be heartbreaking and frustrating as you witness your dog's suffering and try to deal with the potential for complaints from neighbors or a landlord. It can also do serious damage to the canine/human bond and ultimately result in a dog's banishment from the home or surrender to a shelter.
Some cases of separation issues are really just the dog suffering from boredom and being destructive (i.e. inappropriate chewing, excessive barking, etc.) as a result. Each case of true separation issues is unique. But, as a general rule, some or all of the following are likely to be observable when a separation issue exists:
-The dog seems to become distressed at signs of your departure (such as turning off the lights, or reaching for keys or a coat).
-The dog barks excessively throughout the day, usually most often immediately after your departure and/or just prior to your return.
-The dog salivates excessively prior to and during your absence.
-The dog is unlikely to eat or play with otherwise favorite toys when you are absent.
-The dog is destructive in the home when you leave and may focus this destructive behavior near exit areas such as windows and doors.
-The dog is wildly excited, to the point of being stressed, when you return home.
-The dog consistently follows you around the house.
-The dog demands your attention by jumping on you, whining, barking, muzzle nudging, and/or scratching at your legs.
-The dog eliminates inappropriately in the home when you leave.
-The dog chews inappropriate items only when you leave.
Helping a dog overcome separation issues can be challenging. Not the least of which is due to the fact that so many people inadvertantly play a large part in the development and escalation of this issue. While some dogs may be more genetically prone to suffering from separation issues, those dogs which are not taught to spend time alone during their most formative early months will most surely suffer most gravely. As social group oriented creatures, dogs need to start learning the skill of spending time alone calmly as soon as they join their new family. This lack of early preventative measures is a sure fire way to set the dog up to fail in this regard. As with all behavior issues, prevention is easier than cure. So, if you have just welcomed a new dog into your home or are planning on doing so soon, be sure to focus on helping your dog to learn to spend time quietly alone on a consistent basis every day using some or all of the suggestions outlined below.
If your dog is already suffering from some degree of separation anxiety, one of the first hurdles to overcome in regards to successfully helping your dog, it to realize that your dog is counting on you to lead the way and do what is necessary to help him or her. In the short term, it might take your dog some time to become accustomed to some of the tools and new daily routines you establish. But, failing to stick with a plan due to guilt or misdirected kindness will only result in your dog and you continuing to suffer. So, take a deep breath as you endeavor to set your dog on a new course to becoming equipped to spend time calmly, quietly and safely alone. Depending on the severity of your dog's issues, you should plan on strict adherence to some or all of the following guidelines for a minimum of anywhere from 3-6 months. When you are confident your dog can handle a slackening of the rules then you can gradually reduce the use of some of them. But, be careful not to go back to your old ways of interacting with your dog that may have caused or exacerbated the problem. In most cases, it is advisable to err on the side of caution and help your dog to maintain his or her new ability to spend time alone by sticking with the course.
1. Keep Greetings and Departures Short and Sweet: Few friends are likely to greet us with the same enthusiasm as our dogs. A wiggly body, wagging tail and woofs of happy excitement are sure to make most pet parents feel they are truly missed and loved by their canine buddy. However, for each time you enter your home and interact with your dog while he or she is in the throws of this canine love fest, you are reinforcing or rewarding your dog for an over the top expression of their happiness to see you, but also for their relief from their time without you. Doing so surely makes time spent without you that much harder for your dog to bear (especially those with a predisposition for separation issues) the next time you leave, if only for the fact that they must be spending some of their time in eager anticipation of the 'happy fest' that will ensue when you walk through the door.
When you get home, spend the first five minutes ignoring your dog. Don't spea, pet, talk to or even make eye contact. It may seem extreme, but separation anxiety can be an extreme problem and requires gentle, but tough love to resolve it. Don't worry about hurting your dog's feelings. Your efforts are intended to do all you can to ultimately protect your dog's feelings. That is, to ensure that he or she won't be crushed, anxious and possibly even panicked when you aren't around.
The same holds true for departures. No need to draw it out. Simply provide your dog with some food stuffed chew toys at random times prior to your departure (i.e. sometimes 30 minutes prior, others 15 or 5 minutes prior), set them up in the chosen long term confinement area (more on that below) and leave. If you make a big fuss when you leave, odds are your dog will pick up on your intense behavior and respond accordingly for a dog who has separation issues. Look at leaving the house as no different than leaving a room. You wouldn't try to 'comfort' your dog in the latter so don't do so in the former.
2. Choose a Special Spot for Your Dog: Just as our dogs have special bowls for food and water, special toys to play with and special food, they should also have a special spot in the house where they can relax and enjoy meals and toys, and ultimately time alone. The choice of a spot depends on a number of factors, including your dog's size, age and temperament, and the length of expected departures. In some cases, an appropriately sized crate is a good choise. For other dogs, a puppy proofed room or an exercise pen will do. Regardless of the type of confinement you choose, consider that this is a place where you will have your dog spend time alone for a number of reasons. Firstly, they will be as safeguarded as possible from causing themselves or your home harm. Secondly, if you feed your dog his or her meals in this area, offer food stuffable toys, and have your dog rest tehre for plenty of short (5-60 minutes) periods of time throughout the day when you are home, this will come to be a place where your dog is accustomed to resting alone and keeping occupied with things he or she enjoys. Your dog may feel isolated when first spending time in this area. So, keep it brief and remember that repetition is the key to building learning muscles as much as physical muscles. So, the more times you offer your dog an opportunity to rest here when you are home (while you are eating eals, on the computer, reading, etc.), the more opportunities you are giving your dog to practice spending time alone when you are home so he or she is better prepared to spend time alone when you are not home. When you go to let your dog out of this area, remain calm and quietly go about your business. This way, you don't inadvertantly reinforce your dog's excitement at leaving this resting area.
3. Pratice On Leash Tethering: As with providing your dog with a special spot to relax, eat and plaay with toys, using a leash to tether your dog to stable objects nearby you when you are there to supervise is a gradual way to get him or her accustomed to not being able to make constant physical contact and eye contact with you. Start with your dog as clase as you feel necessary for him or her to be calm and comfortable and over the course of a few weeks, gradually increase the distance away from you. Be sure to offer your dog something engaging to play with (food stuffable toys, flossies and bully sticks are options), so he or she is less likely to be concerned with not having contact with you. Surprisingly, this simple and gentle technique of gradually getting your dog accustomed to time alone when you are home with them so they are more likely to be able to handle time alone when you aren't home, is one of the tools to preventing and controlling separation anxiety that pet parents seem to find most difficult to adhere to. It seems the concern is that after spending the day at school or work and being away from the dog, people feel it is inkind to prevent the dog from having unlimited access to them when they are home. While the ultimate goal is to have a dog who can roam freely, calmly and safely in your home when you are home and when you aren't, consider how tough it is for a dog to go from one extreme to another, rather than a gradual introduction to soemthing. That is, you are home and they are following you about at all times, and then you are gone! This is as opposed to using management tools such as on leash tethering so your dog can gradually learn to be away from you and ultimately stay calm, cool and collected when you actually leave.
4. Meet Your Dog's Needs, But Not When They Demand You To: Lavish your dog with loads of love. But, avoid doing so when your dog demands it. Ignore attention seeking behaviors such as jumping up, scratching and pawing at you, whining and barking, and muzzle nudging. Yes, some of these behaviors can be very cute, but allowing your dog to learn he or she can get your attention whenever it is demanded is a sure fire way to make those times when you aren't available to your dog harder for him or her to handle. Simply ignore your dog, turn away, or stand up and wait for your dog to refrain from being demanding. Then, ask him or her to do soemthing positive to get your attention. Some trainers refer to this as the Nothing in Life for Free (NILFF) program. Ask your dog to do something for you in exchange for each thing you do for him or her. A sit, down, some when called or any number of other behaviors your dog learns to do on your request can be exchanegd for a walk, scratch behind the ear, or a tasty treat.
5. Provide Outlets for Mental and Physical Energy: One of the key ingredients to preventingand controlling behavior issues is providing dogs with adequate outlets for their typically vast amounts of mental and physical energy. Of course, every dog is different and the exact amount of exercise which is ideal depends on a number of factors including a dog's age, health, and temperament. But, for most dogs in good health, in addition to plenty of potty break walks, they need at least one hour of physical activity. If you have an especially high energy dog or a puppy or adolescent, odds are it is more like to hours. This can be a brisk walk or run or training and play sessions which incorporate lots of movement. Equally as impprtant is providing your dog outlests for mental energy. A dog who has been run for an hour and then gets back home where there is nothing to do, is essentially being set up to fail as they will surely not be sleeping for the rest of the day. In which case, their investigative nature will probably lead them into trouble (i.e. inappropriate chewing, digging, barking, etc.) unless you give them something appropriate to focus on. Variety is the spice of life, so be sure to provide as many unique enrichment opportunities as possible. Provide new social interaction when appropriate, the opportunity to encounter new sights, sounds and smells, and access to a rotation of enrichment toys. Some good options are: Busy Buddy Twist n- Treats, Gimborn white sterilized bones, Bob-a-Lots, Buster Cubes, Roll-a-Treats and Tux toys. These can be offered to your dog in his or her special rest spot or when tethered on leash as you supervise. Feeding your dog his or her meals from a variety of toys such as these is a way of allowing your dog to 'hunt' for their food in a safe, constructive, energy burning manner inside their home.
6. Pinpoint Departure Cues That Trigger Your Dog's Anxiety: Dogs are experts at picking up on what, to people, can be incredibly subtle cues. Try to pinpoint those things which seem to start your dog's anxiety about your departure so you can work on desensitizing your dog to them. This might be soemthing like putting on your shoes, looking at or picking up your coat or keys, or starting to reach for the front door. Try to repeat these behaviors many times throughout the day when you do not plan on leaving and pair them with tossing a few of your dog's favorite treats on the floor. At first, your dog may already be too anxious to eat the food. But, with repetition he or she should be able to relax enoguh to enjoy the tasty treats and ultimately make a positive association between these departure cues and something good happening.
7. Practice Brief Absences: In addition to practicing being separated from you when you are home (by being tetheredat gradually increasing distances from you and by spending time in his or her special rest spot), you should also practice leaving your home for extremely brief bits of time whenever you are home so your dog has plenty of opportunities to become desensitized to what will now be a very normal, repetitive part of his or her day. So, instead of expecting your dog to handle one big absence each day and then prolonged exposure to you when you are home, you are helping your dog understand that absences from you are more often than not for tiny bits of time and not cause for major concern. Each time you walk out the door and right back in you are potentially increasing the odds that your dog will eventually be able to handle gradually increased absences.
8. Consider the Aid of Calmatives: There are a number of calming aids available from local pet retailers and on-line which may aid you in your efforts to help your dog overcome separation anxiety issues. Dog Appeasing Pheremone (DAP) is a synthetic pheromone which mimics the natural pheromone a lactating female dog emits to calm herself and her pups. It is available as a wall plug in, a spray to be used near the dog's resting area, and as a collar. There are also homepathic remedies such as Bach flower essences Rescue Remedy. In some cases of extreme separation anxiety, veterinarians and veterinary behaviorists might prescribe a medication such as Clomicalm. However, all of these aids must be used in conjunction with a program which includes management tools, desensitization and counter conditioning in order to have a possible beneficial impact.
The process of resolving separation issues can be a daunting task. So, it is advisable to enlist the help of an experienced trainer who adheres to a gentle, positive approach. They can help you make a detailed and specific plan based on your dog's particular temperament, the severity of the separation anxiety, and your daily routine.







Andrea is a Certified Pet Dog Trainer through the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers and a Certified Pet Partners Team evaluator for the Delta Society and the AKC's Canine Good Citizen (CGC) test. She is the director of Andrea Arden Dog Training, and was named the best dog trainer in New York by New York, W, Time Out and Quest magazines and the Daily News. Her website is located at http://www.andreaarden.com and she can be reached at 212-414-9597.

The Psychology of Successful Dog Bathing

"Can I wash my own dog? It can't be that hard can it?" These are the words that I hear everyday as I go about my business working at the Pooch Parlor in Northern Idaho. Each time I walk a customer through this process, I find myself wondering why in the world something so simple is so doggone hard to explain. Washing your own dog may seem simple, but - only if you think and speak 'dog' - the language of your own dog.
I run a shop for full service and self-service dog grooming and bathing, and I LOVE it! There are dogs, and owners, of every size, every breed, and every temperament that come in to use the self-service doggie wash. Most owners are excited, some are scared, and some are cocky, but no matter who they are, or what they do for a living, there is nothing quite as intimidating for them as washing their own dog in public! The thought of doing this can give even the most confident person, performance anxiety, and for good reason! It is a true test of trust and tolerance and friendship for the person and dog companion. And, on a very basic level, it is an honest mirror for the owner, and how he or she deals with life, and with conflict. The likelihood of a successful experience for both is completely dependent upon the psychological relationship that exists between them, and, to a large extent, the ability of both to comprehend the body language of the other. You may be surprised to know that I have found that dogs are supremely better at reading their humans than their humans are of reading them. It is this relationship between human and canine, that shows itself without modesty during bathtime, and, keeps me coming to work day after day with a smile on my face.
My clients have been giving their dogs baths in my shops for 10+ years now, and, each year is more entertaining than the last when it comes to watching regular people washing their own regular dogs. The average person that comes through our doors is highly successful, which usually means - intelligent - and, because like attracts like, so is their dog. And, so why oh why, they ask me, should this simple task of cleaning their dog be so difficult? I ask them time and again, "Well, how well do you speak dog?" Invariably, their reply is a blank stare. So, this is the time to ask yourself, "How well do YOU speak dog?"
There is a lot to say about the theories of why dogs and humans behave the way they do, but I'm going to get back to the practical things to look for while bathing your own dog. The bottom line to remember is that your dog's energy and personality traits are a mirror to your own. Take this into consideration when attempting to get him into the tub and have him be happy about it.
1. Deciding when to bathe your dog. Timing and Personality traits: Timing is important. Look at your own needs regarding timing to know how your dog will react. Are you the kind of person that is up for anything anytime? Or do you need to accomplish your day in a scheduled, systematic way? How do you do with new experiences? Do you find them refreshing and fun, or do you feel fearful until comfortable with a new activity? Your dog is going to deal with the bathtime experience in the same way you deal with life experiences. Remember that your dog is going to reflect your own personality traits - not necessarily the traits you show the world, but the traits that are truly inside you.
a. Fun-loving, extroverted, and social humans. If you enjoy regular physical activity, then so will your dog. For this type of person and dog, I suggest you take your dog out for a bout of exercise before the bath. In the city where I work, we are fortunate to have a designated beach on the lake just for dogs and their humans - dogbeach. There is a long path to run or walk on, and there is a large beach area to swim and play in. This is the perfect scenario for pre-bath timing. The dog can choose to get muddy, run, socialize, or just enjoy being outside. In any case, the dog is able to spend big reserves of energy outside in a fun way, just like letting human children play before naptime. If you love exercise, do something like this with your dog before taking him into your own tub or a professional facility for a dog bath. A common fault of the social dog and owner: Just because you are friendly, out-going person does not mean everyone wants to accept your friendly, and out-going gestures. It's hard to fathom, I know, but it is true. If you have a very social dog (if you are a social person), it is easy to forget that many dogs (like their owners) are not social and do not appreciate the social requirements (like butt-sniffing) of others. Please remember to respect their space when in public or otherwise. Keep your dog restrained and under control, even if your dog has the friendliest intentions.
b. Non-social, active, or inactive humans. If your personality is not conducive to social interaction, then I still suggest that you walk your dog or do something that is comfortable within your life that involves light exercise before bathing your dog. Taking a walk with your dog does wonders to alleviate excess tension or stress for both human and dog. By getting rid of stressful energies during a walk, it does not present itself during bathtime. Getting exercise is especially important for those humans,( I mean dogs), that are highly nervous. I recommend giving your dog Valerian root (liquid form) or Rescue Remedy (liquid or spray) orally 30 minutes before the bath. Both of these products are natural remedies to calming down jittery nerves- and it works great for humans too. If timing is important in your life, take your dog to a self-service bathing facility when the least amount of people are there, usually early or late in the day. A common fault of the non-social dog and owner: they communicate poorly within their own species and with other species. Many people that tend towards isolation, often do this because they never figured out how to communicate effectively in human society. Their dogs typically have the same problem. I have seen it happen many times that owners of aggressive dogs unwittingly encourage their dog's unwanted behavior, when they think they are doing the opposite. They do this by projecting their worrying thoughts about the 'what-ifs' of a social situation. Dogs of this type of owner act out their dog interpretations of their human owners signals. The dogs often pick up the 'what-if' fears of the human as the request of their human, actually creating the 'what-if' behavior to occur. Without human intervention and boundary setting by the owner (requiring advanced communication skills), it is quite common for this type of dog to exhibit increasingly aggressive behavior. Most owners are dismayed by their dog's aggressive behavior, but they simply lack the skills required to communicate what behavior they will and won't allow from their dog. I recommend that if you have a dog that is displaying increasingly aggressive behaviors to consult a professional dog behaviorist or trainer. Just a few simple tricks will convey an accurate message to a dog that is most likely misunderstanding your expectations.
Language barriers for humans and dogs. Its no surprise that miscommunication between owner and dog happens often. If you are a human that is finding you don't understand why your dog does what he does, remember, you are learning a whole different language and culture. Give yourself time and give your dog time to understand each other. Just don't expect your dog to act like a human, especially during conflict. It takes time and practice for anyone to learn a new human language. It's no different learning dog language. We all know how to interpret a human smile in society. When a dog pulls his lips back over his teeth, it typically doesn't mean he's happy! Would a human dream of greeting a new acquaintance by sniffing their butt? Right! But, in doggie language, that's the equivalent of shaking hands. A dog that shakes his head to get the slobber off of his mouth is no different than a person smoothing his slacks or dusting off his shirt to look more polite. The differences are huge, so give yourself and your dog a break if you have hit a communication block wall.
2. Deciding where to bathe your dog: There are not a lot of choices when it comes to bathing your dog. A. You can use your own bathtub at home which requires no human socializing - hard on your back, it's very messy with extended after cleaning, and potentially traumatizing to human and dog. B. Bring your dog to a self-service doggie wash shop - easier on your back, requires some basic social skills by owner and dog, can be noisy and hairy, requires no after cleaning, and it does cost more than just the shampoo. C. Tie the dog to a fence and wash him with a hose in the yard (hopefully on a hot, sunny day) - not easy on the back, hard on the dog with cold water, potentially traumatizing for nervous dogs, but does not require human or dog socialiaing. D. Wash the dog in your nearest lake -which is very popular in my neck of the woods - hard on the back, requires advanced human and dog social skills, is potentially harmful to the environment, and how clean can you really get a dog in lakewater?
Regardless of where you wash your dog, take into account your own physical limitations, and your dog's physical limitations. Is it worth wrecking your bathroom and hurting your back to wash your dog at home? For the clients I see, the answer is a definite, no! Emotional requirements are often a factor for dogs. For instance, (in general) Labrador retrievers have no issue being bathed in a lake (even though they don't get clean), but they often resent being restrained in a tub with a sprayer hose pointed in their direction. For a farm dog that has never been away from home, tying them to the fence is a better solution than trucking them to the city and asking them to have manners in a grooming shop, or in a populated lake. At least next to the fence, even with cold water, they are comfortable with where they are and what is expected of them.
My vote is, of course to find a self-service doggie wash facility. The equipment is professional and easy to use, the water is warm (most of the time) and typically the dogs get treats when they walk out the door, which makes them happy campers. So, for those that want to know about washing your dog at a laundradog facility, here you go:
2. Getting your dog in the tub and getting him to stay there! At this grooming shop, the average dog that comes in for self-service is around 100lbs. All the dogs are washed at waist level where they stand on a grate in the tub. Getting them in the tub can be a trick. It's kind of like asking a human to put ice skates on, and stand on the ice and not worry about how to do it. The easiest way for dog and human is to not give the dog time to decide whether or not he wants to. (Not the easiest task for shy or overprotective owners). The owner is given a large choker chain or cloth noose which goes around the dogs neck.
Leading: We have the owner quickly lead/pull the dog up the stairs with another person on the other end of the dog to give a quick boost on the butt end. The dog is on the grate, and in the tub before he has decided to be worried about it. Once the dog is in the tub, the owner hooks them in (not something you can do in your tub at home) to a variety of metal hooks inside the tub.
Choking: The dogs that are new to having a bath will sometimes turn in the tub and pull on the choker chain. We prefer the choker chain to a regular noose because the dog quickly learns with a choker that he is in control of whether or not he feels the choking sensation. The second the dog realizes he controls his own choking, AND realizes his owner is going to allow him to learn this (this is very difficult for the overprotective and/or mother types of owners-most all of us!), the pulling behavior stops. With a regular cloth noose, or one that does not self-regulate, the dogs will pull and pull and often never learn that they have the control over their own pulling more than any other behavior during the bath. Owners feel like they are directly causing their dog injury and should rescue them immediately when they hear them coughing and sometimes gagging. It is natural to feel concern over your dog choking, but it helps to think of the dog's pulling and coughing similar to putting a toddler into his crib for a midday nap.
Many human toddlers HATE taking a nap and will cry hard enough to cough and gag. If parents rescue them from their cribs when this happens, they are reinforcing this coughing behavior for their child. Parents that monitor the crying, and coughing from a safe distance where the toddler cannot see them, soon find that their babies submit quietly to naptime without expecting to be rescued each time he utters a sound. Naps and baths may not be pleasant to begin with, but they are both essential habits of life. Dogs have the same learning behaviors regarding rescue. Owners that react with excessive concern over the pulling (as the dog is expecting), or crying and screaming tantrums, find they are only encouraging more pulling and tantrums from their dog. This point is so crucial that it is worth repeating. The more upset and worried the owner gets over the dogs behavior, the more they get of that dog behavior. If the owner is calm and without fear - and projects this to their dog, it is not long before the dog understands that pulling on the chain is only hurting himself, and that tantrums are a waste of their energy. When the owner believes everything is fine despite pulling and tantrums, the dog does too, and he stops the undesirable behavior accepts that today is bath day!
So many nurturing owners find this part difficult, but try to remember, when you expect your dog to learn how to control his own anxiety, he will learn, but it requires that you LET him learn. The best ways to learn to control ones own anxiety is to actually go through the experience of having the anxiety and dealing with it. If you are the type of owner that cannot allow your dog to experience this emotion without taking over and stopping the experience, your dog will learn to go into an anxious state more and more easily because of the reaction that he can expect from his owner. This becomes upsetting for both dog and owner and as you can see becomes an escalating cycle. If you allow your dog to go through this experience of the bath, anxiety and all, you will see that they will calm down and before you know it, you have a dog that allows you to bathe him! And having clean dog is essential to most dog owners. When your dog does calm down, i.e. quits pulling on the noose and allows the bath experience, that is the right time to express heightened emotion of happiness through praise and treats. If you take this time to praise your dog, it won't be long before your dog asks to be washed with a happy, wanting-to-please attidude.
However, as with any rule, there are a few exceptions: old, very young, asthmatic, and dogs with neck or throat problems should be closely watched if they exhibit excessive pulling on the choker chain.
Ignore or not to Ignore: Most of the time, I recommend to owners to simply and quietly ignore their dogs protesting to get the behavior to stop (and it does), with the only exception being a small puppy (like a yorkie) or an old and fragile dog. Both the young and the old dogs that are not used to baths can injure their tracheas or create a medical problem (like asthma) if their nervous behaviors are allowed to escalate. It is in this circumstance that I tell the owners to use a harness to hook the dogs in the tub or in the case of a small and wild puppy, to use a sink or bucket in which they can immerse the dog in warm, soapy water. Puppies are wired to swim and that's what they do if they find their bodies in water. Swimming is easier to work with than a freaking out jumping bean. If you do choose to ignore your dog's protesting to the bath, REMEMBER to give lots of praise when the dog show's signs of acceptance and/or begins to calm down.
Drying Your Dog: Drying a dog depends on the type of hair, type of temperament and grooming experience the dog has. If you have a shorthaired dog, towel drying is generally adequate. In the grooming shop, we use high-power dryers that blow the water out of thick or double-coated dogs like shepards, collies, and huskies - and in this case - standard poodles.
Put cotton in the dog's ears before you begin as the dryer is loud. Make sure there is a minimum of play in the noose or chain that connects the dog to the tub, as the more room the dog has to throw a tantrum, the more room he'll use. Start the dryer on the back end of the dog and aim the dryer side to side moving towards the head until the water is not dripping off the dog any longer. Most private owners go home with their dogs still dripping because of the tantrum factor. This is where the above information comes into play. The majority of dogs are nervous at first, but they quickly learn that the air is only loud, not painful. If the owner stays calm, the dog will quickly find this state during the drying process.
There are a few more minor steps that do occur in the grooming shop, such as brushing, nail trimming, anal expression, ear plucking and cleaning, teeth brushing and scaling and more. You can check out more 'how to' information on these specific techniques at www.thepoochparlor.net. Regardless of who you are or what you do for a living, the chances of your dog having a pleasant experience during the bath is highly dependent upon the ability of the dog's owner to understand his or her own needs regarding life and society. Consider all the factors, energy reserves of your dog - spend them before the space wherever you go will increase your odds for success. Consider how much you actually do know about dog language. Above all else, remember that you, the owner, are in charge, and that if your dog is temporarily distressed with a new situation, you have to stay calm long enough to allow your dog to understand and accept the experience. It's a curious notion that a human would have to delve into the basics of his or her own psychological needs to give their dog a great bath experience, but if you do that, you and your canine friend will have many years of happy and successful bathing experiences.
Author DuAnn Lustig-Chambers has been grooming since 1997 and owns Pooch Parlor Pet Groomer Training Academy in Sandpoint, Idaho.







Author: DuAnn Lustig-Chambers
Owner/Instructor/Dog Behaviorist Pooch Parlor Groomer Training Academy
210 Triangle Dr. Ste. D
Ponderay, ID 83852