Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog

Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.

The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy's den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.

When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.

Giving the pup special "treats" is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog's purpose for the crate is that it becomes his "den" you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.

A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den - a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.

Always feed the pup/dog's regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.

To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you're having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.

Normally a puppy follows a very definite "potty pattern": when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.

The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.

With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:

Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her "potty area". Right from the start I began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.

Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.

Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten - back outside. Family social hour - back outside.

This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn't have to clean up a single "accident" with either animal.

At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.

If you work, don't expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe "chewy" items. Better safe than sorry.

Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.

Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their "den", their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog's private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.

Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it's a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.

Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy's behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.

Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can't control their functions for longer periods.

If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog's confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he's learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're certain that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!

Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.

Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.

C. Anne is the author of multiple articles related to the care and nurture of domestic pets. She is an advocate of training by "Positive Reinforcement" and a campaigner against all forms of animal abuse and exploitation.

To visit C. Anne's pet blog Click ==> http://4petsonline.com

Choosing A "Puppy"

So you want a dog! Do the entire family buy into this idea? Experience has shown that if one or more are against a pet, then bringing an animal into that environment can cause considerable family friction and stress.

Have you weighed up the financial and time implications, these can be considerable, owning a dog is a serious commitment and should never be taken lightly.

You should take into consideration your health, age, and overall time constraints, do you want an active or sedentary animal? Some dogs demand and require almost constant attention, lots of exercise and mental stimulation. Others are more laid back; therefore you need to research which dog will suit you and your family's outlook and lifestyle that includes living arrangements. For instance if you live in a flat and had limited time, a Border Collie or Springer Spaniel type dog would be madness, and would most probably lead to serious behavioural difficulties. Not only for the dog!

Lots of people buy a dog because they like the look of them, ie for aesthetic reasons, without taking into account the needs and temperament of that breed. You need to research both the positive and the negative side of your chosen breed and make sure what you are looking for is suitable for your environment and lifestyle. Make sure you have fully decided on the breed before you start looking for your new addition to the family

WHERE TO BUY

You have done all your homework now you have to decide is it to be a rescue or a puppy?

So where do you buy it from.

PUPPIES

If you have decided on a Puppy then there are some fundamental things you must do and some places you should never buy from, and rules that you must adhere to whatever the breeder or seller tells you.

Rule 1. Never ever buy a Puppy from anywhere or anyone without being able to see at least one or preferably both the parents. There are places called Puppy Farms that are absolutely deplorable. The puppies from these farms generally have major problems throughout their lives. Mainly caused through poor breeding, bad sanitation, cheap food etc, and are generally taken from their mother and siblings far too early causing socialisation problems with people and other dogs.

Rule 2. Never buy a Puppy from a Pet Shop or any other similar outlet; other animals are OK but not Dogs. You could be supporting the horrific trade in puppy-farmed dogs. I have even seen pups being sold at car boot sales.

Rule 3 . Never buy on impulse or because you feel sorry for a frightened and timid puppy.

Rule 4 . Never take the word of a breeder or any seller who says you cannot meet any of the parents, or they skirt your questions re the parents. The excuses commonly used are the mothers ill or not available or at friends or they are selling a pup for someone else.

Rule 5. Do not automatically believe that your dog is a pedigree. Just because they have supplied a certificate, especially if parents cannot be seen, some of these certificates are not worth the cheap paper they are printed on. I have a puppy at my classes at the time of writing this, with a full pedigree certificate, sold as a Cocker Spaniel yet it is clearly and without any shadow of a doubt an English Springer Spaniel.

Rule 6. Unless you are an experience handler/dog owner then do not pick the puppy that bounds up to you and pushes all the others out the way to get to you. This is normally the most dominant of the litter. Do not also go to the other end of the scale and pick the runt or the frightened one, because you feel sorry for it, you are taking on a whole heap of problems if you do, the majority of all dog attacks are based on fear not aggression. You are far better off picking a pup from the middle rankings. The breeder if worth their salt, should be able to advise you on this. Alternatively you can employ a behaviourist or specialist who can assess the pups using a specialised puppy assessment tests.

Rule 7. If you looking for puppies do not automatically think that if you go through the Kennel Club route that those dogs and breeders have all been personally checked or vetted by that organisation. This is not the case though an excellent and well meaning establishment, they really do not have the facilities nor the ability or time to check the credentials or bona fide of all the breeders on their books.

You may be better to go to the breed clubs of the type of dog you are looking for, as they generally know each individual professional breeder, and respect each other ethics and work. Contact the secretaries and they should be able to point you in the direction of available quality pups.

CHOOSING THE PUPPY AND TAKING IT HOME

You have now set out what you want and where to buy it from. I would recommend you visit the puppies at the very least twice, at 4/5 weeks and again when you pick up the pup. The best age to take the puppy home is 7 weeks see my Psychological Changes in a Puppies Growth. NEVER accept a puppy less than 7 weeks of age, as it is vitally important they are with their mother and siblings up to this age.

Check the appearance of the mother and puppies. Do they appear healthy; eyes clear and bright, free of any discharge? Are their coats shiny? If possible get confirmation of the eye and hip scores of both the mother and the father. If the breeder allows you always stroke and fuss the parents, check their temperament, look for and signs of aggression, fearfulness, nervousness, or ‘Neurotic' symptoms such as chewing feet, tail, or skin damage, are the dogs pacing etc. This is especially important in the mother, as the puppies are in close contact with her. It has been shown that, it is the mother that shapes the behavioural future of the offspring, genetics may load the gun but environment fires it.

Make sure you handle the puppies if they become distressed or shy away this could mean that they have not been properly socialised. If the puppies have been socialised correctly, then they will adapt and accept situations that are potentially stressful. You should then end up with a happy well-balanced dog in maturity.

Before bringing your new dog home, make sure your garden is ‘ Safe & Secure'. Purchase a collar, lead, bowls, and dog tag with name address and telephone (law max £5000 fine) bed, toys and treats etc, check with the breeder what she is feeding the pups, a good breeder will supply you with some food and give you a feeding chart. Leave a small blanket or towel on your first visit, so that it gets the mother and the litter smell on it, this should provide some comfort in the first week or so at home. Check with other dog owners as to the best Vet in your area. If you live near me check on the local links section , as I have recommended what I believe to be the best in our area.

When you pick up the pup take a crate/indoor kennel or a cardboard box with you and line it with newspaper, take spare newspaper with you as the pup may be sick and will almost certainly urinate and defecate on the journey, especially if it is any distance.

When you get home place the bed or crate near somewhere warm if you are using a crate and I heartily endorse them cover the crate with a blanket or sheet to make it more den like introduce the puppy to the crate gradually and positively see my article on Toileting With a Crate.

If you have a loud ticking clock put this near the bed or crate and leave a radio on in another room, make sure it is tuned into talk not a music station. If the puppy continues to get distressed you can take it into your bedroom, though I would only normally advise this when using a crate/indoor kennel as you can gradually move this away over a period of time once the puppy has settled in. You can also put a hot water bottle; this will mimic the heat from the mother and siblings over the first few nights. Make sure it is well covered or you may get a very wet bed/crate.

Your new puppy will needs lots of sleep, just like a human baby so too much interference in this pattern will be detrimental, rough handling by children or adults could affect the behaviour and attitude of your new puppy, and could have a long lasting effect as the dog matures. However not enough contact and gentle handling will also have a negative effect on your dog, finding the right balance is of vital importance.

A puppy can be an absolute joy or an unmitigated nightmare, which one you get, can be affected by the effort you initially put into your research, decisions, training and ongoing socialisation. It is vitally important to book your puppy into a good socialisation class, make sure that they do not have more than 8/10 dogs in any one class and that the pups at the start of the course are not over 18 weeks old, and the trainers do not allow thepuppies to just jump on one another at the start of the class, integration of the puppies in the class should be careful and slow to avoid problems and long term bad manners in later life.

Puppies need lots of time, care and patience. Follow the above guidelines and your efforts will be positively rewarded.

Stan Rawlinson ( Doglistener) is a Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with Gundogs then moving on to the behavioural and obedience side of Pet Dogs in 1996. He now has a successful practice covering London, Surrey and Middlesex you can visit his Web Site atwww.doglistener.co.uk .

Training Your Dog To Sit | Teach The Sit Command To Your Puppy

Training your dog to sit on command is a good place for you and your dog to start your obedience training.

It's a nice easy command which your puppy or dog will master very quickly. This will increase your dog's confidence and provide the foundation on which to build more advanced skills and commands.

Another benefit of training your dog to sit is that it gives you a good alternate behavior to request of your dog. If your lovely dog likes to greet visitors to your home by jumping up all over them, or charges out the front door every time it opens, you can gain control of him by applying your "sit" command.

You can start with this obedience command as soon as you bring your new puppy home, or any time after that. Before you start training your dog to sit (or any other obedience command) ensure that your dog is confident and comfortable around you - lets you touch him, gives you his attention etc.

I have three techniques I like to use when teaching my puppies or dogs to sit. I've had a 100% success rate with these techniques and I'm sure you will too. Pick out the one that best suits you and your dog, and you'll be well on your way to having a well behaved dog. This first training technique is great for young puppies.

When you are with your pup and you see him about to sit or in the act of sitting, say "sit" in a clear and firm tone. As soon as your dog's rear end hits the floor, give him praise and maybe a bit of a scratch behind the ear. In your dogs mind you are building an association between your verbal "sit" command and the act of him sitting.


Most puppies make this connection very quickly. Before long you will be able to say "sit" at any time, and your puppy will understand what you are asking of him. Remember to always reward and praise your pup as soon as his behind hits the floor. Your pup will love it, he'll be thinking "all I have to do is sit down and I get attention, treats and praise!

For older puppies and dogs this training technique works every time. With your dog standing right in front of you, grab a small tasty treat in your hand. Guide the treat from his nose level up over his head, the treat should be a few centimeters away from your dog at all times. Your inquisitive dog will follow the treat up with his nose and at the same time his rear end will hit the ground. As soon as his behind hits the ground give him the treat and lavish him with praise.

If your dog backs away or jumps up at the treat you are taking your hand too far back over his head, or holding it too far away from his nose. Repeat this step until your dog gets it, then you can introduce the verbal part of the command. Just before you begin to move your hand (the one with the treat in it) say "sit". Your dog will soon respond to your verbal "sit" command without even moving your hand. Remember to practice/reinforce this command at any time throughout the day, in any situation.

If your dog doesn't respond to the methods outlined above, or if you prefer to use a collar and leash in your training, this technique will do the trick.

Stand next to your dog, both of you facing the same way. Hold the leash straight up, directly above the collar. At the same time gently press down on your dog's back (down near his hips) and say "sit". As soon as your dog is in the sitting position, reward and praise him. Within no time you won't need to press down on your dog's back or even hold the leash up. He will understand that your "sit" command means that you require him to plant his backside on the ground. And he'll be happy to do it for you because he knows that he receives praise and attention when he does.


I hope these techniques prove successful for training your dog to sit, I'm confident they will. It's a good idea if you live with other people to teach these commands to them as well. They can then apply the exact same commands to your dog - your dog will appreciate this consistency.

If you plan on training your dog at home, and would like to do it the right way please consider using this complete dog training package. I have found it to be a very effective tool in helping me train my own dogs, and also strengthen the bond I share with them. It's a great community of dog lovers run by professional dog.

  Teach your dog to sit.




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Puppy House Training | House Train Your Dog The Right Way | Potty Training Puppy

You'll find lots of puppy house training articles and theories across the net and in books everywhere, but I'm pleased to say that I've got a method that has never let me down. The potty training technique I have come to rely on and trust requires a fair degree of commitment to begin with but the rewards are quick and last forever. My veterinarian first told me about this potty training method which could be summed up as follows:Closely monitor your puppy to prevent messy mistakes, enthusiastically reward desired behavior every time, and if a mistake happens work out where you went wrong.

Owning a puppy is a big commitment for all family members, especially in the first few days and weeks.

Puppy potty training is not a race, the key is to prevent mistakes and establish good habits early - dogs are creatures of habit.

From your dogs point of view there is no right or wrong place to go to the toilet, they feel like going and just do it. It is our job to clearly communicate and reinforce where it is acceptable to eliminate and also where it is not acceptable.

Opening your back door every couple of hours to let your puppy out will not house train your puppy.

A puppy's natural instinct is to keep their bedding/sleeping area clean - the potty training method outlined below utilizes this knowledge to our advantage.


No matter how attentive and diligent you are in the house training process there is bound to be the odd slip up. Don't worry about it just ensure that you clean mistakes up thoroughly, including the use of an odor neutralizer to take away any lingering smell.


My puppy house training strategy involves close supervision and confinement to start with but only so we can allow our puppies greater freedom and much sooner.


Understand your puppy's capabilities and be realistic, keep in mind you are dealing with a very young animal. Young puppies can only hold on for so long before they need to go, they don't have much control early on. As a general rule a puppy can hold on an hour for every month of his/her age, plus another hour. This means that a 2 month old puppy can be expected to hold on for three hours and at 3 months old this same pup could be expected to hold on for four hours at a time.


Develop a food and water schedule. Each day feed at the same time (never close to bed time) and take away your dogs water bowl before you go to bed (don't forget to put it back first thing in the morning!). You'll develop a routine this way and "what goes in on schedule comes out on schedule", if you know what I mean...Physical Punishment Is Never An Option In The House Training Process! This method is for when you are at home with your puppy, follow it as closely as you possibly can.

Equipment you'll need:

I prefer to use a good quality crate. Ensure that it is comfortable, safe and the right dimensions for your puppy. You can read a detailed crate training article I wrote here - puppy crate training -or-

You can also set up a small pen area with a comfortable dog bed, fresh water and a couple of chew toys (like a food stuffed kong toy). Do not put a doggy toilet in this pen area.


Choose the spot outside where you would like your puppy to go to the toilet (eliminate).

Keep your puppy in his/her crate, pen area or even tethered to a chair where you are working. Your puppy cannot have free run of the house at this early stage, he must be confined. Every 60 minutes take your puppy straight to the designated toilet area outside. Carry your puppy or walk out on leash.

When you reach the toilet area walk back and forth or circle around and around. At the same time say and repeat a cue word you would like to attach to the act of your dog eliminating. I use "hurry up" but just pick out a cue word or short phrase and stick with it. In your dogs mind you are building an association between the cue "hurry up!" and him emptying out. This is the first obedience training command you will teach your young pup

If your pup does eliminate continue to repeat your cue word and the instant your dog finishes doing his business enthusiastically praise and reward him with a small tasty treat. Make it clear that you are very happy with him and that he is the best little puppy on the block! If after 3-4 minutes of circling around your puppy shows no signs of needing to eliminate take him back inside (put in crate or pen) and try again in about twenty minutes.

Immediately after a successful toilet trip outside you can allow your puppy some free play time (under supervision) in the house. Just spend some time enjoying the company of your puppy, then place him back in his crate or pen area.

Continue with this 60 minute puppy house training schedule, you'll be rewarded for sticking to it. Remember that you are trying to prevent any mistakes and at the same time establish good habits in your little puppy.

"What about overnight?" I hear you ask. Yes well, firstly do not feed your puppy close to bedtime and take away his water before you go to bed (don't forget to put it back first thing in the morning). You'll need to set your alarm clock to go off once and possibly twice throughout the night. This is an important step, just take your puppy out to the toilet area as usual and then hop back into bed. When your puppy is young it is physically impossible for him to hold on all night, but before long you will both be sleeping peacefully right through the night.


In addition to your 60 minute schedule it is important to take your puppy outside after each meal time (most puppies go to the potty within 15 minutes of eating).

That's the puppy house training process, follow it consistently and I'm sure you'll experience pleasing results. When you are not home you will need to set up an area with comfortable bedding, water, toys and a toilet. Place the indoor doggy toilet at the opposite side to the bedding in your puppy's living area. When you arrive home remove the toilet area inside and follow the potty training method detailed above.Puppy House Training Process - Teaching Your Puppy To "ask" To Go OutsideIf you aren't able to install a doggy door it is handy if you teach your dog the right way to let you know he wants to go outside. Do this by hanging a Poochie-Bell on a piece of string attached to the door handle (at the level of your puppy's nose).

Follow the puppy house training schedule as detailed above but now add the following: Each time you get to the door to go outside give the bell a bit of a shake and say "go potty". Do this every time you take your puppy outside to the toilet for a week or two.

After a week or so when you arrive at the door say "go potty" but don't touch the bell. You want your puppy to give it a nudge, if he does, give lots of enthusiastic praise and quickly open the door. If your puppy doesn't nudge the bell after standing at the door for 10 seconds, shake the bell yourself while saying "go potty".

Keep trying this procedure every time you go outside until your dog "gets it". With most dogs it doesn't take long at all.

Eventually your dog will make his way to the door and tap the bell every time he needs to go outside to the toilet.








If you require even more puppy house training tips and solutions the ebook above comes with my very highest recommendation - it is simply the best book ever written on puppy house training. Every situation, scenario and problem is expertly addressed within its pages. You can get yourself a copy right here.


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Stop Dog Barking Now. Discover How To Stop Your Dog From Barking

Working out how to stop your dog from barking can be a difficult and time consuming task.

Dogs love to bark. It's a perfectly natural thing for your dog to do, just as it's normal for us humans to speak.

It's when our dogs bark excessively that it becomes a problem for all concerned - including our cranky neighbors.

Considering this, our goal really isn't to stop dog barking altogether, but rather to control the excessive barking.

Keep in mind that there are situations when we want our dogs to bark (and I guess there are also times when I like my chatty aunty to speak!;)

The first step in modifying the behavior of an excessive barker is to determine the reason why the dog is barking in the first place. Once you've identified this cause or trigger, you can then plan the correct training solution.

Another thing to keep in mind is that even though it may appear to you that your dog is barking at nothing, this is not necessarily the case. This is due to the fact that your dog has a much more acute sense of hearing, smell and sight than us humans. Your dog's excessive barking is most probably being triggered by something.

Ok, now we've sorted out the reason for your dog's excessive barking, we just need to work out how to control the problem.

The most important piece of advice to remember when trying to modify any dog behavior problem, is that you must clearly communicate to your dog what is acceptable behavior and what is not.


One of the biggest mistakes us dog owners make is to inadvertently reward our dogs excessive barking. We actually encourage and reinforce the barking problem when we commit these three dog training sins: Yell and scream at the dog - this just gives them the attention they were crying out for. Plus your dog will most probably just think you are joining in with them, adding to the excitement. Let them inside. If your dog is barking his head off outside, then you let him in, this just rewards and therefore reinforces the barking.

This also applies to dogs who bark to be released from a crate or bark to make you get up and prepare their dinner! If your dog is barking and you react by giving him a comforting cuddle or a treat of some sort, you are definitely encouraging your dog to bark again. By doing this you are communicating to your dog that you are happy with him. You should be making it clear that his excessive barking is inappropriate and won't be tolerated.

Right, lets get stuck into some proven dog training techniques to help stop your dog from barking. I've listed the most common reasons why your dog may be barking, and added some proven solutions you can try to alleviate the problem.

This is a very common and annoying time for dogs to bark excessively. Try these training techniques: I'm not going to pretend this type of barking will be easy for you to control, because in reality it is often a difficult and lengthy process
.
Always remember that dogs are social creatures, when they are separated from their pack (you) they can become stressed, vulnerable and frustrated. This type of excessive barking is often caused by separation anxiety. This is one excessive barking problem that can be corrected very quickly. Workers such as the Postman or a delivery driver are constantly being barked at and harassed throughout their day.

Your dog perceives these type of people as intruders or a threat to their territory. When your dog barks in this situation he is rewarded every time, as the intruder goes away. Your dog is then very pleased that he has averted this "threat", which leads him to do it again and again. His behavior is reinforced and therefore can be a very difficult problem to extinguish. In extreme cases of excessive barking, where all else has failed, some people advocate debarking surgery. I've never needed to go down this path with any of my dogs, and don't think I ever would. But if you have come to the end of the line and think you have run out of options, you could discuss debarking surgery with your Veterinarian. Hopefully your Vet will come up with some other options before taking this drastic step.

Proper dog obedience training is the key to solving any behavioral problems (including stopping your dog from barking), and also to building a strong bond with your dog.

Train your dog at home with this comprehensive dog training course - dogproblems.com. It's a fantastic community of dog lovers who strive to raise and train their dogs in a positive, reward based and non-violent manner.




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Choosing a Right Dog ? Tips and Things to Consider

As we see healthy and lovely dogs around, it really seemed so exciting and so much fun getting in-love to have one. It was really nice feelings to have a loyal companion and friend that’s always there to cheer you up. But before you decide what kind of dog want to be with, it is always better to be well-prepared and make best decisions to ensure a good quality of life for you and your pet.

There are thousands and millions of dogs suffering and being euthanized around and it is really hearth-breaking, so instead of becoming part of a problem, let us be a part of solution. Be responsible enough and equip ourselves with good information and education. A dog is a part of the family for a dozen or more years; the commitment to feed, shelter, and nurture a family friend for that amount of time should be based on rigorous analysis of an appropriate breed for the family circumstances.

Here are some points to consider when choosing a dog that’s perfect for you. First is the size, a large dog is not suitable for an apartment, for elderly owners, or for mild-mannered women because of their strength and incredible energy and exercise need. Large, agile dogs adapt well to apartment or condo living as long as they get a daily walk, and some are gentle enough that anyone with a firm voice and manner can easily handle them, they are good for house with children. Small dogs may be unsuitable for families with active children or elderly or infirm relatives who could trip over a small, bouncy critter. Some dogs are lethargic and others are very energetic and needs enough exercise a day to let these energy settle down. Those who fail to give enough exercise for very energetic dog, dogs tend to bored and divert it on unnecessary behavior like being too destructive, aggressive and many other behavior problems.

 Active families would be happier with a pet that can jog, hike, and play ball, and more sedate folks would most likely prefer a quieter animal. Basset Hounds, Dachshunds, and Corgis are not jogging companions, and Airedales, German Shepherds, and Border Collies are not typical couch potatoes, they love to walking and usually likes to perform agilities around. All dogs need some exercise to stay healthy. Most adult dogs will not exercise themselves, so time for walks and other activities is important. Some breeds are fairly easy to train, and some are quite difficult. If you lack time and patience to deal with a dog that is difficult to train, then an older dog from a rescue service may fit your bill as well as a pup of a breed that is traditionally easier to train.

Intelligence is not necessarily an indicator of trainability; smart dogs often have their own agenda and require firmness of purpose on the part of their owners. Smart dogs bored easily, specially on activities that are repeated, have some different routines and activities to do, or a higher level of training like on agility training class where they can show what really they got. As a rule, terriers, hounds, and northern dogs are tough to train because of their intelligence and independent natures, and sporting and herding dogs are easier to train. The sharpest-working obedience breeds are Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Border Collies, German Shepherds, and Shetland Sheepdogs, breeds that developed to closely with humans.

Dog barks, they range from a lovely small bark of a puppy into annoying barks that are so embarrasing and might turn into hating neighborhood, too much barking can lead to noise laws or even pet limit laws. Terriers and scent hounds use their voices to broadcast their progress in chasing prey animals. Shelties and Collies bark to tell the sheep to git back to the barn. Canaan Dogs bark to alert their families to potential intruders. Barking dogs do not endear owners to their neighbors in apartments, condominiums, and close-knit suburbs. Dogs bark if they are too bored so ensure you have enough time and ability to train, walk and have playtime with your pet.

 There are some special collars available to deter barking dogs and some training methods that can help in some cases, but if potential owners take the noise factor into consideration, problems are more likely to be minimized. Owner’s capabilities and commitment always have a dog with good behavior and temperament. Breed and group temperament can be described, but there is latitude within that description for individuality. Thus Akitas are declared to be tough animals, loyal, aloof, dominant, aggressive to other animals, and often challenging. However, many Akitas are sweet and cuddly, love small critters, will climb in laps if allowed, and are anything but aloof and dominant. Terriers are scrappy, yappy, tough, and independent, but Airedale Terriers bond very closely to their humans and are somewhat protective. Hounds follow their eyes or noses and are often oblivious to human presence, but Dachshunds bond closely with their families and Greyhounds and Whippets are sweet, gentle pets.

Meticulous housekeepers and folks with little or no time for grooming will be happier with dogs that don’t accessorize the living room with dog-hair dust bunnies a couple of times a year. Double-coated dogs may also have longer, stiffer guard hairs that can penetrate bare feet like splinters. Long-coated and double-coated dogs shed, shed, and shed some more, leaving tufts of hair to float about the house and land everywhere. Dogs with oily outer coats can develop a doggy odor that can be unpleasant, dogs with heavy coats may suffer in southern climes, and dogs with short coats may shiver in the north.

Brushing is needed to remove the dead hair from wire-coated terriers, poodles, and poodle relatives, and professional grooming is necessary to maintain texture and color in wirehaired terriers. These breeds are generally better than heavily shedding breeds for owners with allergies. Your environment, dogs can be destructive to gardens, lawns, and landscape plantings. Common problems such as urinating on lawns or shrubs, roll in flowers, chomp on vegetables and branches, dig holes, and generally cause havoc unless they are restrained from doing so. Sturdy fences will keep dogs from entering gardens if they are tall enough so dog owners use underground radio fences or wireless fences.

On health, have good knowledge on what to feed for your dog. Ask or look for some comments or testimonials about certain dog food before giving it to your dog. Dogs in the wild naturally eat raw food, it was natural, healthy and cheap so consider them, ask your vet about it. A good vet will say about dog raw food, if they always recommend those process food then look for a new vet that could suggest. Although purebred dogs are sometimes denigrated as harboring all sorts of genetic abnormalities and mixed breed dogs are sometimes claimed to be healthier than their purebred cousins, the truth is that all dog have the same range of health problems. Some of these problems are genetic, some result from exposure to disease or parasites, and some are the result of non-inherited birth defects or injuries.

Joint problems, including hip and elbow dysplasia and loose kneecaps; eye problems; cancers; skin diseases; heart and other organ diseases; and more affect canines of every size and background. Some dogs have additional problems caused by short muzzles, long backs, giant or diminutive size, or other physical features. When you finally decide on what kind of breed, research everything about this breed. Make sure you get the dog on the right place, visit first rescue or shelter house where then can study if the dog will be perfect for your lifestyle. Also make sure you are getting the dog on true responsible breeder, they should have all the papers and required shots, etc.



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Choosing A Puppy From A Litter | Choosing A Dog

So you're ready to take the plunge, you've decided to bring a little puppy into your life.

That's great, but you've still got some important decisions to get right before you select your new housemate.

It's very tempting to simply pick out any of the cute little pups that bound up to you as you visit your puppy breeder. But take your time, do some research and look a little deeper. Choosing a puppy is an important long term decision, why not do everything you can to get it right?

The 8 week mark is the ideal time to pick your puppy up from the breeder. Before this time your puppy needs to be with his/her mother and siblings for his development and socialization. A Good Breeder Makes Choosing A Puppy Easy


Choosing a puppy is an important step towards ensuring you end up with a healthy, well adjusted and happy long term companion.

Once you bring your puppy home it is then your responsibility to provide proper socialization and obedience training. This will shape the temperament and behavior habits of your puppy and set him up to thrive in society.

Good luck - I hope you find you and your family a great puppy!


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English Bulldog Puppy Information & House Training | English Bulldog Breeders

The wonderful affectionate and docile nature of an English Bulldog puppy belies their tough appearance.

English bulldogs are much loved and admired right around the world for their striking appearance, clownish behavior and for the unparalleled companionship they provide. When properly bred, socialized and trained the English bulldog of today has a sweet, tolerant and patient nature - they are a lovely family dog.

English bulldog puppies love to be indoors with their human family - all of the time. If you're looking for a jogging or swimming partner then a "bully" wouldn't be a good choice. On the other hand, if you are looking for a loyal companion to curl up with you on the couch watching TV, then this may be the right breed for you (as long as you don't mind snoring!). Depending on who you ask an English Bulldog puppy is ugly, or is one of the most beautiful of all creatures! Their appearance really does divide opinion - some people just can't see their beauty.

Personally I like the look of them. The first thing you notice is their massive broad head and those big round eyes. They have a short muzzle and saggy skin droops from the face - this emphasizes their trademark frowning expression.

You can't help but be impressed by the compact and powerful body of an English Bulldog puppy. They have wide muscular shoulders and strong thick limbs. They waddle along with that distinctive shuffling gait.
The coat of an English Bulldog puppy is short, smooth and lays close to the body (they do shed!). The coat comes in a variety of colors including fawn, brindle, red, white, yellow, piebold and any combination of these.

A fully grown English Bulldog stands at an imposing 12-15 inches tall at the shoulder. They weigh in at up to 55 pounds! The English Bulldog really came to prominence as a bullbaiting and bearbaiting dog. These brutal "dog sports" were very popular in Britain in the 17th century. It is thought that English Bulldog puppies descended from the ancient mastiff breeds of Asia. The breed as we know it now is nothing like this old fighting breed in regard to temperament. The aggressive and vicious traits of the early English Bulldog have been bred out long ago.

These days "bullys" are highly regarded for being friendly, patient, playful, dependable and cuddly! They are a great all round family dog and are considered one of the best dog breeds for children. Children do need to learn how to respect and treat an English Bulldog puppy and should never be left unsupervised with any dog - regardless of breed type
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If possible, always purchase your puppy from a well respected and reputable English Bulldog puppy breeder. This will give you the best chance of bringing a physically and mentally stable dog into your family. If you find a good English Bulldog breeder, chances are you will also find a great little puppy for life.
A few general thoughts about the English Bulldog: Once again I want to stress that buying your puppy from a reputable English Bulldog puppy breeder is an important step to take to ensure you get a healthy pup. A good breeder will carefully plan each mating, breed from good quality stock and screen for hereditary disease.


English Bulldogs typically live up to 10 years of age - they do suffer from a wide range of health problems. Your Veterinarian and breeder are the best people to give you specific health care advice but here is a list of common health issues:

One other thing! English Bulldogs are not good swimmers - be especially careful with your Bully around water. Lets be honest here, English Bulldogs are not one of the best obedience training students - but don't be fooled, they are capable.

It's important that you establish yourself as your English Bulldog puppy's leader. Give him/her clear guidance, in a positive non violent manner. Be consistent in your training, use plenty of encouragement and always enthusiastically reward desired behaviour.

Below are some training issues you and your English Bulldog puppy should practice together:
English Bulldogs can be a bit stubborn or some may say indifferent towards training but if you keep your training sessions short, intense and fun you're sure to achieve pleasing results.

If you plan to train your English Bulldog puppy at home I recommend that you study and follow this comprehensive dog training package - Raise & Train Your English Bulldog Puppy Like A Professional Dog Trainer. All of the training issues mentioned above are covered in detail within this excellent dog training
resource.

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Bulldog Breeds - www.BulldogBreeds.com provides info, photos, forum and breeders directory for english bulldog related breeds.

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Golden Retriever Puppy Training including house training, crate and obedience

Golden Retrievers are an outstanding human companion dog - they display a long list of traits which us dog lovers truly admire and value.

The Golden Retriever is much loved all around the world for their gentle affectionate nature, high intelligence, absolute loyalty and attractive good looks. They are one of the few dog breeds who truly build a strong and lasting bond with their human family.

Golden Retriever puppy training is an essential, fun and rewarding experience for both you and your dog. You'll find that your Golden Retriever puppy may be a bit unruly and excitable early on but with some puppy socialization and training will develop into a wonderful trustworthy companion. The Golden Retriever is a relatively modern sporting dog breed. Fortunately for us dog lovers the Golden Retriever was developed in Scotland in the late 1800's by Dudley Majoribanks. They were initially bred to be superior hunters - to this day they still love to retrieve.

Since then the Golden Retriever has been known as a Golden, Yellow Retriever or simply as a "Goldie".
The Golden Retriever has a lovely warm gentle expression, is athletic, muscular and has a smooth fluid gait. They love to greet you with their head held high and tail wagging furiously.
One of the most distinctive features of the Goldie is their beautiful rich golden coat. It is a thick double coat which is weatherproof - they do shed!

Goldies are a powerful well proportioned dog, males grow to 56-61cm tall at the withers and weigh in at between 29-34kg. Females are a centimeter or two shorter and a couple of kilos lighter.

The easy to handle and very trainable nature of the Golden Retriever has seen them utilized in many "canine jobs". Their love of human company and patience has made them ideally suited as guide dogs for the blind, service dogs and also as narcotic detection dogs. Anyone who has had the pleasure of living with a properly socialized and trained Goldie will agree that their temperament is what makes them so special
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Golden Retrievers absolutely crave and thrive on human attention. They are happiest when involved in all family activities - they are not an outside dog. Therefore if you are away from home for long periods a Golden Retriever puppy is probably not the right option for you. Separation anxiety can be a real problem with Goldies who are left alone and bored for hours on end.

Golden Retriever puppies grow to be confident, friendly to all people and animals, well mannered, patient, inquisitive, adaptable and stable. Basically they are a great asset to any responsible dog loving household.
Goldies love to swim, retrieve a ball, they enjoy all types of dog sports and training. They thrive on the physical and mental stimulation which activities like agility, flyball, tracking and obedience training provides.

Golden Retriever breeders play a crucial role in the future of the breed. A concientious and reputable Golden Retriever breeder will do all they can to protect the health of the breed going forward. All of their breeding stock will be screened accordingly and all litters will be carefully planned.

It's an unfortunate fact that there are many unscrupulous and opportunistic Golden Retriever breeders out there cashing in on the vast popularity and money making potential of the breed. They have little or no regard for the mental and physical wellbeing of the Golden Retriever puppies they produce. This has led to a disturbing increase in Golden Retriever puppies with unstable temperaments.

Golden Retriever's are still a pretty sturdy and healthy breed but there are a few problems to look out for: Hip dysplasia is a common problem in Golden Retrievers - as it is with many of the larger dog breeds. It's an inherited defect which means that the hip joint is unsound. Your Golden Retriever breeder should be able to show you hip clearance x-rays of all of their breeding stock. Elbow dysplasia is also prevalent in Goldies - similar to hip dysplasia. Eye Disease can be a problem in your Goldie. Hereditary cataracts are fairly common and Central Progressive Retinal Atrophy (CPRA) is also common. Once again checking the parents and grand parents of your puppy is your best guide. Hereditary heart disease and epilepsy are other health problems that Goldies can be susceptible to.

So if you want a healthy, well socialized Golden Retriever puppy the best place to start is by locating a good Golden Retriever breeder - they are your valuable ally. Golden Retriever Puppy Training Is Tiring Stuff! Golden Retriever puppies require proper socialization and at least basic obedience training in order to reach their full potential. The good news is that Goldies are willing and very capable students who are very trainable.

Golden Retriever puppy training is most effective when using positive, reward based dog training methods with plenty of encouragement and praise. You'll find that your Goldie is eager to please when training and won't benefit from any harsh punishment or intimidation.

From puppy house training (potty training), crate training right through to all the basic obedience commands (sit, down, stay, heel, come etc.) your Goldie will catch on quickly. All they require from you is some clear guidance, consistency and repetition.

If you plan to train your puppy (or older dog) at home I would recommend that you closely follow this comprehensive Golden Retriever training community. Some Cute Little Golden Retriever Puppies


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