How to Choose a Dog Walker that's Right for Your Dog

If you are like most working Americans you are low on time and high on tasks. You might put in long hours at the office. This shortens the amount of time you spend engaging in dog walking with your best canine friend every day. Different dog breeds have different daily exercise requirements, so your pooch might need extensive dog walking or run in the middle of the day.
How can you take your dog walking and be at work at the same time? You can hire a dog walker to be your dog walking replacement while you are at work. Often times a dog walker is more then just a necessity because many dogs that have limited dog walking time become irritable. Dogs need to have daily exercise and human connection through dog walking.
Your dog may even act out by chewing up your couch and favorite pair of heels when you are gone. In some instances, a dog in need of consistent dog walking will show aggression. This lack of exercise has let excess energy build up.
Dog walking during the day is also necessary for many dogs because they simply can't go a long duration without going the bathroom. You may be at work for 12 hours and this can be too long for dogs to go without relieving themselves and/or having a snack. Therefore, daily dog walking can be a great benefit to many dogs.
We have established that daily dog walking by a dog walker is great idea. The question now is how do you choose a dog walker? There are many things to consider when you choose a dog walker. Your dog is a member of your family so you need to go through many of the same considerations that you would when hiring a babysitter for your children.
When hiring a babysitter for your children you normally look to family and friends for references. Do the same when you are looking for a dog walker. You can seek out references from friends that have dog walkers, your veterinarian, and dog groomer. They may know of individual dog walkers or dog walking services.
Take time to interview your dog walker. Do they have dog walking experience? Can you speak with any of their clients? Do they have a business license? Find this information and investigate it thoroughly. The last thing you want to do is leave your dog in the hands of someone that is unprofessional or may harm your dog.
Feeling comfortable with a dog walker's references is also necessary because you will need to give them a key to your home so they can pick up your pooch. They will enter your home for daily dog walking, so you must trust them like you would trust a babysitter.
You need to assess the services your dog walker has to offer. Will they provide special assistance to your dog especially if it is an older dog that may be blind or has arthritis? What types of care services will your dog walker provide in addition to dog walking? For example, will they also provide water and feed your dog? Will they then cleanup any dog waste? You need to understand the scope of services your dog walker is willing to provide.
There are few factors to think about with regards to the actual dog walking. Will the dog walker walk your dog solo or with a group of dogs? A group of dogs may satisfy your needs, but this limits the amount of personal attention your dog can receive. You might have to pay more for a solo walk, but it could be worth the additional cost to keep your pooch happy.
You also need to determine what time your dog walker will come each time, how many times per week, and the length of the dog walk. It is a good idea to find a dog walker that can work around your schedule. They may be a great dog walker, but if they are too busy then they may not be able to meet your needs.
Don't forget to bring your dog into the picture during the interview process. The dog walker needs to meet your dog. Observe how the dog walker interacts with your dog. Are they friendly? Does you dog appear to warm up to them immediately? If you have an opportunity, try to watch your dog walker interact with other dogs. Are they curt with dogs they aren't walking?
Once you do hire a dog walker, you need to monitor their performance during the first few weeks to determine whether they are the right dog walker for your pooch. How can you do this if you are at work? It's as easy as enlisting the help of your neighbor or anyone that will be in your neighborhood during the day. Have them observe the time of day your dog walker arrives and how they treat your dog during dog walking.
Don't forget to provide your dog walker with emergency contact information. Also inform them of any special needs your dog may have. Finding the right dog walker can keep both you and your pooch happy.







Visit the Dog Walking website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog books, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

Dog Parks: Pros and Cons

Dog Parks. What a great idea! Imagine being able to take your buddy to a big, open field and letting him or her safely play and run around with dozens of other dogs. What a great way to provide exercise, especially for those rambunctious, high-energy teenagers that often become destructive and "self-employed" at home when they have nothing else to do. How many of us have come home to torn sofa cushions, shredded plants, neighbors complaining about incessant barking, etc.?

Dog parks can provide a wonderful opportunity for your dog to learn appropriate dog-to-dog behavior with dogs of all ages, sizes and temperaments. In addition to all these benefits, dog parks often offer us humans a chance to get out of the house and spend some time socializing and meeting new friends.

Most people who take their dogs to dog parks are respectful, polite, responsible, and look out not only for their own dog, but for other people's dogs as well. After all, if one dog gets hurt, everyone is affected. And most dog parks are well maintained, clean and safe. With so many benefits to taking your dog to a dog park, are there any disadvantages?

Not a month goes by that I don't hear from one of my clients that his dog or his neighbor's dog was hurt at a dog park. And in 99% of the cases, it all had to do with the attitude of the human. A well-known actor (this is L.A. after-all) brought two of his dogs to a park and as soon as the dogs entered, they zeroed in on a Lab who was resting underneath a picnic table. Within seconds, cries and growls filled the air. People rushed to help the Lab who sustained multiple puncture wounds. When the actor finally arrived at the scene, he simply declared, "Hey, dogs are dogs, they were only playing."

On another occasion, a woman came directly from a rescue with her new 80 lb dog and wanted to see how he would behave around other dogs. The dog attacked a small, blind Pekinese and caused several thousands of dollars in medical care.

In other cases, dogs are hurt because of how they play: some dogs are much more physical than others, resulting in unintentional injuries. Others never learned appropriate dog etiquette because of the lack of proper socialization when they were young. As a result, their pushy behavior often results in misunderstandings that trigger fights.

In addition, not every dog likes to visit dog parks. Older dogs sometimes care less about being around other dogs and are perfectly content interacting only with their humans. Well-intentioned as some people are, they can facilitate problems because they fail to read their dog's body language, which is telling them, "Get me out of here!"

So what should you look for? Visit a park before you bring your dog. Talk to people. Safe parks all have one thing in common: a good park is one where people will not put up with aggressive dogs and they look out for one another. Make sure there is a separate area for small dogs. How clean is the park? Is water available? If you find yourself stepping over mounds of feces, it's a good bet that park isn't for you and your dog. See if the park has a ranger that oversees activities. This is rare but really says a lot about safety.

Once you've chosen a dog park, don't bring food or your dog's favorite toys as that often causes problems. Notice how other dogs are behaving and if play becomes to rowdy, interrupt it before a problem arises. If your dog seems fearful, leave the park.

Know your dog. If your dog displays aggression or fearfulness, don't take your dog to a dog park. You can work on behavioral problems with a trainer but in the meantime, you can take your dog for walks or jogs, play fetch, hide-and-go seek and "find-it."

There are wonderful dog parks out there that benefit both people and dogs. To find them, do a little investigation, use your good common sense, be responsible and keep a watchful eye. You and your dog can have a lot of fun!

Paul Owens is the author of ?The Dog Whisperer? DVD and the book, ?The Dog Whisperer, A Compassionate Nonviolent Approach to Dog Training?. He has been Certified by The Association of Pet Dog Trainers and Endorsed by the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors. Paul is the Director of Raise with Praise, Inc. Dog training. For more information, visit http://www.DogWhispererDVD.com

Dog Training Fundamentals - 5 Key Dog Behaviour Factors That Affect Training

Whether you already have experience of dog ownership, are a new dog owner or are about to be a dog owner, then training your dog is one of the most important aspects you need to consider. Likewise if you currently have a dog with behaviour problems, then dog training is essential.
However, knowing you need to train your dog and actually training your dog are two entirely different things. Just where do you start?
To successfully train your dog, you need to consider and understand some key facets of dog behaviour. Knowing and understanding these 5 facets will greatly improve your dog training.
1. The origins of dogs. Dogs are in essence descended from modern day wolves. While domestication has dampened or eliminated many traits, some key natural instincts still remain. Like wolves, dogs are pack animals. What does this mean?
Well, there are several traits that derive from being a pack animal. The important ones when it comes to training are dogs are naturally sociable, they are used to routine and they are used to a social structure (i.e. the famed alpha male).
As sociable animals dogs thrive on the interaction with other dogs. A dog does not consider you as a human but rather a funny looking dog. Therefore, dogs thrive on the interaction with you. Just like a wild wolf, rejected by the pack, if you starve a dog of this interaction, they will become unhappy and very agitated.
When it comes to training, you can use this to reward or punish your dog. Interacting with your dog (e.g. patting, encouraging/excited talk, etc) can be as much of a reward as treats of food. Similarly, ignoring your dog (e.g. turning your back, stern talk, putting them in another room, etc) can be a harsh punishment for a dog. Its definitely better than smacking them.
As with all animals (including humans), dogs thrive on routine. If they know what and when they are likely to be doing certain things, then they are relaxed and comfortable. They know what to expect and are not confused by ever changing circumstances.
Training should also stick to a routine. Decide when the best time of the day is best for you to train your dog and stick by that time as rigidly as possible. Your dog will soon get into a routine of expecting to be trained at say 3pm every day and will be prepared for when training time comes. If your dog is ready and expecting to be trained, then it goes without saying that they will actually train better.
Within a pack there is always the alpha male. The dog that leads the pack, protects the pack and ultimately ensures the pack is fed and survives. As mentioned, a dog sees you as a funny looking dog and not a human. To be a good dog owner you absolutely need to be the alpha male. How many nature programs have you seen where the alpha male is being challenged by one of the other would be alpha males? Likewise, your dog will be challenging you to be the alpha male - this is a natural instinct for them.
You must establish yourself as the alpha male from the beginning. Providing food, interaction, punishing bad behaviour, body and vocal language all go towards asserting yourself as the alpha male. If your dog does not consider you as the alpha male, then they will not listen or act on your training instructions.
2. A dog's memory. We all know that goldfish have short memories. However, you may be surprised to know that dogs also have short retention memories. If you could tell your dog something, it is likely that by the next day or a few hours later, they will have forgotten. On the other had (or paw) dogs do have incredibly good associated memory. This basically means that if your dog can associated something with what you tell it then it will likely remember what you told it for years to come.
For example if you told your dog (assuming you could speak doggy language) that the chocolate biscuits were in the cupboard your dog would probably forget this within a few hours. However, if you showed your dog where the chocolate biscuits were, repeating the words 'chocolate biscuits', every time you said 'chocolate biscuits' it would probably go straight to the cupboard. It may also search the cupboard every few hours for the rest of its life looking for the chocolate biscuits but that's not the point.
Therefore, when training your dog you need to associate the training topic with something. For example: if you are teaching your dog to sit. If you associate the word 'sit' by getting your dog to physically sit and then giving them a reward. Repeat this a few times and soon your dog will associate your command 'sit' with it physically sitting and then getting a reward. The difficult bit is disassociating the reward - ask yourself why almost every dog will naturally sit when you have food in your hand?
3. Doggy language. Despite comments above, we cannot speak doggy language and dogs cannot speak our language. This is important when it comes to training. You have to choose words for commands that both you and your dog will remember. Be careful not to choose very common words or else your dog will be easily confused when this word keeps appearing within the middle of a sentence. A common word often used in training dogs is 'come'. For this example, it may be better to use a slang version or combine 'come here' into a single short word.
The important thing is that when you decide on a word for a command to stick with it and be consistent, otherwise your dog will become confused.
I know it can be difficult, especially if you come home to your new TV pulled off the cabinet, to always use pre-selected words when talking to your dog. Your dog does not speak human language and will only know what those few words you have trained it with are (and the tone you have used). So if you start using other words or different tones your dog will not understand.
For example: imagine someone speaking to you in a foreign language asking for directions to the city hall. You can't understand a word they are saying yet they get more and more frustrated, talking in a louder and quicker language. Is it your fault you can't understand them? Why are they getting angrier when you have no idea what they are saying? What is their problem? What will I do? Similarly, if you haven't trained your dog to understand what 'sit' is and you start shouting 'sit', 'down on back legs', 'down', etc is it your dog's fault it is looking at you confused and increasingly scared.
4. Puppy behaviour. Just like babies, puppies do not know how the world works or how they are supposed to behave within that world. They need to be taught and learn what is good, bad, right or wrong.
A healthy and happy puppy will be a bundle of energy, desperate to explore as much as they can as quickly as they can. Dogs do not have good eyes that can see things or hands that can feel the intricacies of objects. Instead they have noses that can smell things and mouths that can chew objects.
While this can come through training and general maturing, the importance of this is that you must be patient and understand where your dog is coming from and why it does what it does.
5. Structure and enjoyment. While I have in a round about way touched on these two above, no dog training information would be complete without mentioning these two aspects on their own.
However you decide to train your dog, as with routine, you must have a structure to your training. If you have never trained a dog before, how do you know when your dog can start learning to sit, stay, etc and when it can run down to the local shop and pick the paper up for you?
You need to know what it is you actually want to train your dog to ultimately be able to do and what steps you need to take to get to that point. Personnel dog trainers, dog training classes and dog training guides can all do this. Personally, I prefer to train my own dogs and believe that in the end you develop a much stronger bond with your dog. Also, your dog is more obedient to you rather than the trainer. However, at the very least, and particularly if you have never trained a dog before, I would recommend purchasing a dog training guide.
The small amount of money for a dog training guide, compared to the time you would waste searching for free online tips that will be a mix match of training and will not provide the structure, is just not worth it. More than that, the time saved in training and the end result of a properly trained dog for the rest of its life (around 15 years) is worth many times more than the cost of even the most basic training guide.
If you, and more importantly your dog, do not enjoy training then you will never properly train your dog. Training will take longer and be much harder. When you start training your dog remember they are most likely to be a puppy and at that age all they want to do is run and explore their new world. Be flexible with the time you plan to spend training. Try and keep training short but if your dog appears to be really enjoying it then be prepared to train for longer. Likewise if your dog will just not focus, then maybe leave it for a bit before going back to it. With a routine and structure to your training, your dog will soon learn that when it comes to training they need to focus for a short length of time and will be better able to do so.
I hope the above has been helpful in your desire to train your dog. By knowing why and how your dog does what it does, you should be able to understand it's behaviour much better. By using this understanding you can better bond with your dog and train your dog. A good training routine and structure as well as plenty of patience and eventually you will have a well trained dog. Always always always make sure training is enjoyable for both you and especially your dog.







If you found this dog training advice article helpful, please feel free to visit my website for more information. As well as dog training guidance such as the best dog training book you will also find lots of information on being a good dog owner and how to keep your dog healthy.
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Dog/Child Interaction: How to Develop a Safe Relationship

Dog-child interaction is the single most important issue to deal with if you have a child and a dog. Children love dogs but dogs don't always love children. When you bring home a new puppy, your child should be trained together with your dog. Dog owners need to remember that it takes two to tango. Children aren't often taught how to treat a new doggy which can make his life a living hell. This is not only torment for your dog but can be dangerous to your child. Never trust your child alone with ANY dog, regardless of how gentle that dog is known to be. A child tends to know just which buttons to press to turn the gentlest animal into a dangerous beast. Most dogs initially feel threatened by a child because they are at eye level, they have high-pitched voices and make vigorous movements. The dog senses that the child is somewhat unpredictable. Dog-child interaction should be monitored in order to make sure that child and your dog are getting along.
What you should teach your child


Do not let your child hug the dog until the dog-child relationship has developed and they've become comfortable with each other.

Children are accustomed to showing their affection with a hug, but some dogs will tolerate it while others will not.

Never approach a strange dog without asking the owner if it is o.k. to do so.

Allow the dog to sniff you before you try to pat him.

Stay away from stray dogs. A stray dog may carry disease or try to attack.

Never scream or run away from a dog. This will only start a chase.

Never run towards a dog or around a dog.

Never approach a dog face to face. This is threatening to them. Always approach a dog from the side. This will allow the dog-child relationship to develop.

Never look a dog square in the eyes.

Never tease or hit a dog whether he's loose, tied up, behind a fence or in a crate.

Never play rough games with a dog, such as tug-of-war. This will encourage a dog to become aggressive.

Never pat a dog on the head. Always approach him under the chin or on his back.

Never bother a sleeping dog.

Never bother the dog while he's eating or chewing his favorite bone.

A dog is not a toy. Never yank on his ears or pull his tail.

If a dog poses a threat, teach your child to stay perfectly still with arms at the side, avoid eye contact, don't scream. If there is no one around who can pull the dog away, have your child use a jacket, schoolbag, garbage can cover, or anything he can find as a shield while backing away from the dog slowly.

If a dog has knocked your child to the ground, he should curl up into a ball with his hands behind his head to protect his face.

Never give the dog table food.

Always play with your dog under adult supervision.

Always be kind to your dog. This will help develop a dog-child friendship.

Always protect your dog from harm.

What you should know as a dog owner


Begin obedience training your dog as soon as possible. Don't wait til he gets older, it'll only get harder.

Never leave your child alone with the dog.

Never let your child walk the dog alone.

Never tie up your dog. Provide your dog with a fenced-in space instead.

Socialize your dog. Get him acquainted with other dogs as early as possible. You should also get him familiar with everything in his environment, both indoors and outdoors. This is key in attempting to establish a great dog-child relationship.

Reward your dog for good behavior with praise and a treat.

If you leave your dog in the yard, make sure your fence does not have spaces large enough for a child to stick their hands through.

Never allow your child to abuse the dog in any way. This will never enable a dog-child relationship to flourish.

Give your dog a space to call his own to which he can retreat to if he is feeling bothered (such as a crate).

Do not allow your child to invade your dog's space especially while your dog is eating.

Get your dog used to being touched on all body parts. This will make him more comfortable around children.

Teach your dog to maintain a good temperment in the case of having his food bowl taken away while he's eating or removing a chew toy from his mouth. This will allow your dog to be more comfortable having a child around when he's eating or chewing on his favorite toy.

Teach your child how to properly handle the dog/puppy.

Walk your dog on a leash. Do not allow him to roam free.

Keep in mind that just because your dog is wonderful around your own children doesn't mean he will tolerate other children the same way.

Spay/neuter your dog.

If you have a dog and are expecting a baby
First off, if you haven't read the information above this subhead, go up and do so now. The above information will provide you with all the do's and dont's in preparing your dog for an addition to the family. If your dog has never been around a child for a long period of time, you will have the next nine months to get him used to it. Dog-child interaction is crucial at this stage.
Invite a niece, nephew, cousin, neighbor, etc. over for a few hours a week (Preferably a child who still wears a diaper. This will get the dog used to baby smell as well).
This idea satisfies two objectives: it will get your dog used to having a child around; and will develop your dog's behavior in such a way which allows him to have a dog-child relationship with almost any child. Teach your dog how to behave around a child using much of the information discussed above.
Do not wait until the baby is born in order to make adjustments. Try to make as many adjustments as you can before the baby arrives, this way he won't be hit with all these changes at once. For instance, if you will have to move furniture around to accommodate a high chair or a playpen, this may affect the placement of your dog's bed and bowl. If so, make this move before the baby arrives. This will lessen the impact it will have on your dog and is less likely to affect the dog-child relationship.
Once you have the nursery set up for the baby, teach your dog that he will not be allowed in the room, at all. If he learns this before the baby comes, it will lessen the dog's resentment towards the baby.
Get your dog used to the sounds a baby makes by playing a recording of a baby cooing and crying. Play this recording in the nursery in order to indicate to your dog where exactly he can expect these sounds to be coming from.
Make accommodations for your dog for the day you go into labor. He may have to spend hours alone before daddy's comes home from the hospital.
When it's time to bring the baby home, have someone go into another room with the dog while you put the baby down and get settled. Then bring the baby out and introduce the dog to the baby. The dog will probably give the baby a sniff or two and seek your attention. After all, he hasn't seen you in days. At this point, it would be a good idea to put the baby down and spend some time playing with the dog. Show him he's still loved. This will aid in the development of the dog-child relationship.
Your dog may require some extra attention in the first days of welcoming the baby. This will keep him from resenting the baby for stealing all the attention. Give him your undivided attention.
Allow your dog to be present when changing or feeding the baby.
Never yell at your dog for getting too close to the baby. Allow him to sniff the baby in order to get used to his scent. Make sure this is done under strict supervision. This will help nourish the dog-child relationship.
As the baby gets older, you will teach him to respect the dog and be gentle towards him.
Get your child to help you with dog chores, such as feeding and walking the dog.
Before your know it, a natural dog-child bond will form which will give them a long-lasting friendship for years to come.
Help your child and your dog live in perfect harmony by adhering to these simple rules. Once a good dog-child relationship has been established, this bond will last a lifetime.
If you have trouble controlling your dog, you should bring your dog (and your child) to an obedience class to help you get started.







Nancy Settecasi, Owner of Happy K-9 Dog Care Proud owner of Cookie and Skippy, Cocker Spaniels, Dog lover http://www.happyk-9.com

Fearful Timid and Anxious Dogs

Socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations. By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive in later life, (FACT) "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related".

Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don't supply it ask why?

Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog's ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.

Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start "the abuse started at four months old" he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.

Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding. Not money or accolades!

Don't expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.

The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.

You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.

Distance Learning

To gain and improve a dog's confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog's new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let's say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog's body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.

Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog's state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.

Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.

Play or Training Therapy

There is an exception to this, if the dog has been recently frightened say by fireworks, you can actually act very blas? and go immediately outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential problem immediately.

Why this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits a lot of turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.

Focused Attention

One way of getting your dog to overcome certain fear situations is to gain the dog's attention with treats, toys or your voice as you walk past whatever is causing the problem. This has a similar effect as using distance because the dog is thinking about something else instead. Therefore the intensity of the fear is reduced.

You will need treats or toys for this method I recommend either cheese, liver, or puffed jerky, do not use treats to lure dogs keep them out of sight till required. Sit next to the dog and call its name, it is even better if you can get a partner or friend to help on the other side, sit the dog between you and your partner or friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically or play or use a toy, get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life, and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned. Never use the dogs name in a negative situation, ie do not scold or punish using his/her name. Once you have got the dog to acknowledge his name then start these exercises:

To start focused attention say the dogs name and move immediately away from the dog when he moves towards and with you PRAISE and TREAT/PLAY immediately you can use a clicker for the praise or a target word, I use the word "good" in these circumstances. Remember to not show the treat until you are ready to give it or it will become part of the command.

When you give the treat try and align it between both yours and the dog's eyes this will make sure you are making good eye contact after a while you will see the dog making eye contact regularly you can treat this action at this time so as to embed it. Do these sequences at least 4 times in a row, ie name/move/praise/treat. The repetition is what teaches the dog to maintain that attention until you give the release command. The release command can be OK or whatever you choose to use. Practice this everywhere you go including training classes.

What you are looking for by performing these exercises is to tune out outside influences including the ones that are causing a fear or aggressive response. Once you can comfortably perform this exercise use it to move gradually ever closer to the problem you are trying to overcome. Over time you can momentarily release the dogs attention, increase this as you would using the distance technique, if you get a fear response then you have moved too far too fast. And you must go back to where the dog last felt comfortable.

Punishment is not an Option

It is of no use whatsoever punishing the dog for its fearful actions, this only causes more stress and therefore more fearful behaviour, therefore in the case of interdog aggression even more defensive behaviour, remember the dog had really only three choices when confronted with a fearful situation these are commonly listed as the three Fs. Freeze, Flight or Fight. If the first two are found not to work the third one kicks in.

Let's take the vacuum cleaner as an example. If you had watched your pup from the first time it was confronted by this "demon of the dark abyss" he would more than likely have crouched down as low as possible his body rigid, if the noise and the monster continued the puppy would have run away, probably under a table or a chair and if it came closer it would have growled and snarled probably making darting and biting motions especially when you playfully pushed the Hoover closer to see the pups reaction. Anything ring a bell?

Some pups will be SO traumatised by the noise and the movement of the cleaner that they go into total freeze mode, our initial instinct would be to pick up and cuddle and comfort the frightened puppy. Perfectly natural human behaviour, something is frightened then nurture it. Unfortunately to a dogs mind this indicates that it is being praised for the fear, confirming his need to be fearful. If this happens when to pup is between 8 to 11.5 week old, which is the first of several fear periods throughout the dog's life, then that fear could be so deep rooted as to be almost impossible to eradicate completely.

Obedience Classes?

Some dogs that are fearful or timid may benefit from a training class especially one that uses positive methods. I, the case of a rescue dog or any adult dog that you have rehomed, I would wait at least six weeks before embarking on this method. Some very fearful dogs may be too nervous for class work until you've done some remedial work first. A private trainer or behaviourist should be able to help structure a positive approach to build up confidence in your dog, and also help determine when the dog is capable of class work.

Do not make your dog jump into the deep end at classes or you can go undo all the good work so far. Initially keep the dog on the outer edge of the class and at a distance from anything the dog fears. If you've developed focused attention before starting class, then this will be extremely useful for helping the dog relax in these situations. Some dogs may need several visits starting with very short periods at a time before actually participating in the classes. Unfortunately some dogs may never be able to function well enough for this type of remedial work.

What Other Treatments Could Help?

Change of Diet: A good quality food helps in many cases, most cheap food has cereal as filler, this can lead to a lack of serotonin, and low serotonin has been linked to aggression and anxiety. Feeding a good quality dog food has other benefits, it need not be more expensive as you do not require as much to get the same calorific intake, so it works out good value for money, but more importantly you are giving your dog a scientifically developed formula that is best for him or her. The nervous dog who eats a food overly-high in protein or sugar can experience even higher levels of anxiety. Therefore consider switching to a food with slightly lower protein levels.

To check on the level of protein of your dog's food, look on the back or side of the dog food bag or can, where the percentage of protein will be listed. Levels usually vary from 14% (for aged dogs) all the way up to 25% (for puppies and working dogs). I am not a fan of canned food I find a quality dry all in one food is a much better option,especially with the fearful phobic dog

If a nervous, hyper dog eats food with protein levels at around 22%, for example, consider trying a food with 18-20% protein. Doing so may help calm him down. If done in conjunction with regular exercise and desensitisation program.

These are a number of homeopathic and mainstream drugs that can be used in situations of stress, fear, aggression, barking, and noise aversion etc; these are a few of the ones available:

? Dr Bach's Flower Remedies: They are made from wild flowers. These gentle remedies are used to help relieve emotional and stress related disturbances in people and animals. The most common one used is Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy Available Me,Chemist, health food shop or internet

? Skullcap and Valerian: A traditional herbal remedy for the symptomatic relief of anxiety, nervousness, excitability and travel sickness, and an adjunct in the treatment of epilepsy in dogs and cats. Normally supplied in a sugar coated tablet, it helps to calm and relax dogs and cats suffering from, apprehension, phobias or hyperactivity.

Available Me, Chemist, health food shop or internet.

? Clomicalm About 14 per cent of dogs suffer from "separation anxiety" - a fear of being left alone - and Clomicalm claims to deal with the barking and "destructive behaviour". Its human equivalent is Anafranil, an anti-depressant. Unfortunately the side-effects can include vomiting and diarrhoea.

Available Vets

Clomicalm is a mainstream drug and I would be loath to suggest its use except in extreme cases where a anxiety desensitisation program using perhaps just herbal helpers initially has not worked. It is far better to work on the symptoms that mask them with drugs.

With all the above it is always prudent to discuss any medication with your Vet before embarking on any treatment program

Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. MPAACT Adip.CCB

Stan is a fully Insured professional Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 35 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, Middlesex, Berkshire, Kent, Sussex, Hampshire, Though is available to travel to any location in the UK if required.

Recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centre's, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He has acted as a behavioural expert for Disney, Sky, BBC, ITV, and LBC. and has appeared on television, radio and in national newspapers on numerous occasions. He is currently filming for a new eight part series for Television which is due to be aired late autumn/early winter.

He is the Founder Member and current Chairman of PAACT
The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers He is also the designer and developer the amazing new training aid The Jingler.

Stan also acts as an expert witness in cases involving the DDA (Dangerous Dogs Act 1991. and lectures and gives practical demonstrations at national and international meetings and symposiums.
He also gives practical demonstrations of his remarkable ability to work with all dogs by taking them out of the audience. He is currently filming for a series on Sky one HD and Sky one called Dogumentary

? Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
web site http://www.doglistener.co.uk

How to House Train Your Dog

House training is undoubtedly the one aspect of dog training that is essential to ensure that your dog becomes a valued member of your family. As with many other aspects of dog training, the best method of achieving a successfully house trained dog is to use your dog's own nature to your advantage.

A wonderful thing about dogs that can make house training much easier, is that dogs are instinctively very clean animals. The majority of dogs would rather not soil the areas where they sleep and eat. In addition, dogs are very good at developing habits. This can be used to your benefit in relation to establishing a set place for your dog to urinate and defecate. For example, dogs that are used to eliminating on concrete or gravel will prefer to eliminate there rather than on grass or dirt. It is possible, and desirable, to use these natural canine tendencies when house training your dog.

The first step in house training your dog is to set up your training area. A small, confined space such as a bathroom, or part of a kitchen or garage, works best as a training area. This method of training differs from crate training. Crate training is great for puppies and small dogs, but many larger adult dogs find a crate too confining if they haven't been used to it from an early stage.

It is important that you spend as much time in the training area with your dog as possible. Use this area to play with your dog, and let your dog eat and sleep in the training area. Provide your dog with a special bed in the training area - this can be anything from a store bought custom dog bed to a large towel in an appropriately sized box. At first, you will probably find that your dog will want to eliminate in this area, but once your dog has recognized the training area as his or her own space, he or she will be much more reluctant to soil it.

The next step in house training is to set up a toilet area for your dog. Your dog must have ready access to this place every time he or she needs to eliminate. It is also important for you to accompany your dog into the toilet area until he or she gets into the habit of eliminating in that area. This will help reinforce to your dog that there is one area for toileting, and no other.

Regular meals for your dog assists in making the house training process easier for both you and your dog. Feeding your dog on a regular basis will also have the added benefit of creating a regular schedule for your dog's toilet habits. Once you know when your dog is likely to need to eliminate, it will be simple to guide your dog to the established toilet area.

Once you have your dog using the toilet area on a regular and systematic basis, it is very important to not confine your dog without access to the toilet area for long periods of time. If your dog is unable to hold it, he will have no option but to eliminate in the training area. And this occurrence will confuse your dog. He will no longer associate the toilet area with being the ONLY area in which he can eliminate. You will thus be making your job of house training your dog more difficult for yourself.

When your dog is consistently eliminating in the toilet area and not soiling the training area, it is time to extend that training area to the rest of the home. This process should be done slowly, starting with one room and slowly expanding to the rest of the house. The area should only be extended only once you are sure of the dog's ability to control its bladder and bowels.

First expand the training area to another single room, and allow your dog to eat, play and sleep in that room, but only when supervised. When it is not possible to supervise the dog, place it back in the original training area. Then, after the dog has accepted the room as an extension of the original training area, the area can be extended.

Once your dog has become used to sleeping in the bed within the training area, you can move the bed around the house, relocating it from room to room. But when you are not with your dog, he or she should be confined to the training area.

You can speed up the house training process, but it is important to proceed cautiously. It will be much easier to take your time in the beginning than to have to retrain a problem dog later. You should always praise and reward your dog each and every time it uses the established toilet area. It is equally important not to punish your dog for mistakes. Punishment will only confuse the dog and slow down the house training process. You wouldn't consider punishing a baby for soiling its diaper, would you? Or even a toddler for soiling his or her pants from time to time? Your dog is the same as a human child in this respect - he needs time to learn both to control his toileting, and what you require of him.

Brigitte Smith runs two websites dedicated to dog training, dog care and dog health:

Grab your free special report here: Healthy Happy Dogs or here: Dog Training and Wellness

10 Clever Ways to Spot the Best & Worst Dog Trainers on the Web Or in Your Town!

Many average trainers teach "average group classes," charge you an "average price" and have, well... that "average" knowledge and skill about dogs, dog training, dog behavior and canine psychology. Most owners who don't know better or who don't really care about these facts, just settle with such trainers and end up with "average results" or even worse-NO RESULTS-in training their dogs! In contrast, the Master Minds I'll be describing in this chapter aren't your average at all and are known to beat the odds.
So who emerges from the pack? There is an amazing energy and spirit about these individuals which you'll notice right away that goes far beyond dog training. In fact, they know it is much more than dealing with dogs, and this is where I'll open your eyes to the traits and qualities of the SMARTEST and the most successful dog experts in the business. Because of their knowledge, skill and persona, they are not only making it--but making it big with class and integrity. Again, don't forget that I'm referring to the SMARTEST, so you don't think that they just got lucky for being at the "right place," at the "right time" or by meeting the "right person." Even if that was the case for a few to some degree, before you know it, they took over and kept on paddling on their own.
I learned a long time ago that if you want to get better in anything, you have to put your ego aside and learn from much better and smarter minds than yourself.
Sometimes this simply came down to hiring the best expert money can buy. (I've also learned a lot from the worst-of-the-worst. After all, this is where you learn what NOT to do.) After studying those who were considered to be as the "real deal," I've noticed that they all came from a totally different class and mentality, and it's no wonder why their success rate was so hard to ignore. When put through the test, they all possessed these ten qualities about them:
1. They Care about You, Your Dog and Their Reputation
You see, it's not always about how much you know or how great you are, but it is also about how much you "care." This simply means these trainers are truly nice people. The old saying, "nice guys finish last," isn't their motto. Studies have shown that nice people live longer, are happier, get more referrals, are always surrounded by friends and relatives, rarely get sued, and rarely get killed. Some may also have a great sense of humor. Sorry, only some. We all know someone with a sense of humor and know that this shows that they love what they do, don't let things bother them as much, and care to make others if not laugh, at least smile here and there. Why the majority of dog trainers are so rude, mean, and disrespectful and act like Mr./Mrs. Know-It-All, is beyond me. It's no secret that most of the time you can tell a lot about someone the minute you talk to them on the phone or in person. That again is, if, you are even able to reach any of them on the phone. Which brings up the fact of caring, once again.
Those who truly CARE not only will get back to you, but often try to reach you immediately. They know that you may need help right away!! You'll soon find out that most dog trainers leave you hanging and you start to grow gray hair waiting for a call back or an e-mail.
Once you are finally able to get a live person on the phone, make sure you get a good vibe from the very start, if not, why bother? This simply means no matter how good they may be, you will be stuck with a jerk, psycho, weirdo, nut job and the list goes on and on. Women are much better than men with their intuition. They say, "It has to feel right." Or "I didn't get a good vibe from him/her." If it the person makes you feel uncomfortable by being too pushy, rude, condescending, or there is something you don't like about him/her, then you could be stuck with this person in your home, in private, or for six to eight weeks down the line.
Top trainers usually answer your tough questions with patience and respect and don't mind or get offended by how much you challenge their knowledge or expertise. These individuals don't just deliver, but often OVER-deliver. This is because they care about their image and their reputation and truly want to stand out from the pack. They know going that extra mile WILL get them that extra attention. After all, how many times have you hired a painter, a contractor, an attorney, or even a babysitter who disappointed you with their poor work ethics? They did a poor job or didn't care much. As some say, "They just go with the flow," and never care about any constructive criticism from ANYONE. You simply don't see that "wow factor" or that "pizzazz" in their work. Noooooooo, I didn't say pizza again. So put down the Parmesan cheese.
If you've already hired a dog trainer in the past, you probably went out of your way to make sure you were hiring a "pro," just to find out that they were definitely a "pro" but also a pro in doing a lousy job or a pro in--"ripping you off!" How fast someone gets back to you, or even if, they even bother to get back to you are all the qualities you should look for. For example, a lot of group class trainers if they don't have a class starting soon, or their class happens to be full, won't even bother to call you back. They even get lazy to mention this on their answering machine. This would never happen with those who actually care about you and your dog.
Once you get to actually talk to these individuals, you can't help it but notice how honest, caring, genuine, and professional they come across.
Whether it is in person, on the phone, or by e-mail, the ones who know they are on top of their game never sound pushy or desperate. In fact, they know not everyone recognizes, appreciates, or even deserves the very best. This is just a fact of life. Those who are among the best-of-the-best in the world of dog training, are considered to be as remarkable teachers/counselors and don't get mad when I add this-even great therapists. The truth is, that the majority of dog owners have no technique, get nervous, act tense, are too harsh with their dog, get too loud, or they can't get firm enough if and when needed. And what's even more sad is none of the trainers who they even hired in the past, bothered to point out their GOOD qualities either. Everybody knows it's not that hard to point out someone's weaknesses. What makes a good trainer brilliant is his/her ability to praise the owners' good habits while correcting their mistakes in a courteous manner. Unfortunately the majority of dog trainers lack people skills and are famous for treating the owners like dogs. I had to learn this the hard way. So the ones that DO make a positive impact among dog owners are the ones that know there is a difference between insulting someone and giving a critique.
You see, there are thousands of great "trainers" out there, thousands--but only a few great "instructors!" Training and teaching the owners is where lies the real challenge.
2. Their Training Method Is Backed by Common Sense
As a writer I hate saying this, but please don't believe everything you read-especially things that just don't make any sense. If you don't see any logic or rationality behind it, how do you suppose your poor dog is going to make any sense out of it? Here's an example. I have a client who owns a Cocker Spaniel that was vicious toward dogs and children. The behaviorists advised her to do lots of parallel walks with bag of treats to use when she ran into other dogs and kids. The dog would stop eating the treats and STILL lunge at any dog they encountered. I guess he saw them as a dessert after those yummy treats. Again, there was no common sense behind the behaviorist's advice, was there?
When in doubt, always ask yourself: Does this seem rational? Am I getting anywhere with this? Are people going to laugh at me?
Even with what you read in my book or on my website, observe it with an open mind and maybe TRY it first, and then be the judge. Once you try something, then you can be certain whether it did or did not work for you and your dog. Otherwise you are just relying on assumptions instead of facts. The same rule applies if you are instructed by your trainer, see it on television, were instructed by your trainer in a group class, or even if it comes from someone with a Ph.D. you need to stop and ask yourself where's the logic and practicality behind their advice? Be smart about it and don't let others brainwash you by trying methods that have no rationality to support them. Smart trainers don't mind asking you, "Does this make sense to you?" or "Do you see the logic behind what we are trying to accomplish?" Again, if it doesn't make any sense, please don't make a fool out of yourself.
Smart Dogs - Dumb Trainers:
Trainers who recommend that you should bark at your dog, growl at your dog, yelp like a dog, or ignore your dog's bad habits such as jumping up on you, barking at you, don't make sense and their tactics won't work. If they do, knock yourself out. Folks, we were taught to use common sense from a very early age in kindergarten. In case you forgot, the teaching was:
"Stop and Think." It wasn't "Go for it Chopper! Then we'll think of the consequence." (Now for some of us, getting the lesson afterward works much better. I guess as long as we "get it" that's all it really matters, doesn't it?)
3. They Have an Uncanny Ability to Pay Attention to Details
Yes, details my dog-loving friend. These experts are like a sponge and absorb everything and hardly miss even the smallest details. ( I've been told that I'm like that. Just in case it will come as a shock for those of you who prefer to hire me in person.) Whether people request that I go to them or if they prefer to send their dogs to me to be trained or rehabilitated, like a skilled crime scene investigator, I'll ask questions and then observe everything for myself, and I do mean EVERYTHING. By now, you should have gotten an idea of what I'm referring to by paying attention to details. If not, please be sure to read the chapter on (Questions you need to ask before hiring ANY expert.) But let me be a bit specific. I observe your technique, your posture, voice tone, attitude and overall perception. Are you firm, easy-going, loud, harsh, stubborn or depending on your mood, a mixture of all? How about too nervous, scared or maybe you think that saying "NO" to your dog might hurt his feelings and we may never see that tail wag again?
The importance of such details is why I cannot emphasize enough how crucial working with an expert in "private" really is. Because of my attention to details, even if I train your dog WITHOUT your involvement, I'll still manage to accomplish much more compared to a group class full of twenty dogs.
All the topnotch trainers you study, you'll notice that every single one of them have trained their own dogs WITHOUT any distractions first. So why should it be any different with you?
Top trainers always introduce distractions to their dogs systematically and this is why you truly see a huge difference in their dogs' performance and command response. They strongly believe that it's not fair to expect you or your dog to learn properly in an unfamiliar setting with lots of different distractions, and anticipate seeing a real difference in the dog's learning progress. It's even worse in group classes where there are lots of other dogs distracting you by constantly pulling on their leashes, barking, whimpering, lunging, or acting hyper around each another. Bottom line, by working in private, you'll see things from both the owner's and from the dog's perspective. Hiring an expert in private is the only way you'll be able to ask questions that pertain "specifically" to you and your needs. Top dog experts know this approach is THE BEST and fastest way to get maximum results and swear by it.
4. They Will Make Sure You Don't End Up With a "Half-Trained" Dog
This means you see a "practical" approach behind their training technique. Remember, your method has to work anywhere and anytime, or else you're wasting your time and setting yourself and your poor dog up for a failure. Allow me to clarify. These trainers will make "sure" that your dog is NOT just another half-trained dog. You know the ones that:
* Mind their owners in a group class, but act like idiots at home.

* Listen perfectly when you have treats, but ignore you otherwise.

* Listens only when the trainer's around, but hardly at all at other times.

* All training goes out the window when you run into strangers or other dogs.
That's what I mean by a "half-trained dog." Elite trainers always prepare you and your dog to become street-smart. Competition training, show confirmation, agility training and making your dog do tricks sure look cute and are even impressive, but are not applicable out in the real world. The majority of dog owners do not seem to really care for them anyway. Always remember this: If your training technique can't be applied in your home, in your neighborhood, or on your day-to-day routines, sorry, you can't refer to it as "real-life" dog training. This means you've been wasting your time and money with the wrong method, wrong trainer, or with wrong group classes.
You see, if a method is effective, you'll see it working immediately, and if it's just nonsense-- you'll see it too. This is how top experts often deliver jaw-dropping results within seconds.
I always tell my clients: "By the second lesson, we could talk about how bad your dog used to behave, and how he has changed for the better already." If you've paid attention to my video clips on my site, you may be surprised to learn that most of those dogs have been trained by me in matter of minutes. I get the dog under control immediately and make them mind me on the spot. The rest is just polishing up, and making sure the dog obeys the owner. After all, it is NOT my dog and the dog should obey the owner.
5. Their Training Method Even Works from a Distance and Off-Leash
Only a few get to this level. You want to eventually have COMPLETE CONTROL of your dog without even being leashed anywhere, anytime and in front of the most tempting distractions the outside world throws at you. This means across the room, across the street, in the backyard, front yard and even from far away with just the tone of your voice. I said your voice, not screaming from the top of your lungs. Top trainers proudly advertise this specialty and can pull it off with their own dogs. Only true professionals can deliver such results. You'll find that most trainers are considered as part-timers and hobbyists. That sad truth is, amateurs rarely are able to get your dog reliably off-leash trained.
It's no secret that there is a leash law. Which is why having your dog completely
"off-leash trained" isn't just cool these days, but a NECESSITY!
You and your pooch need to be prepared for that "what if" moment. What if your dog bolts out the door, manages to slip out of her collar, lunges and breaks her collar, attacks a dog, a cat, or maybe everything was fine and your dog was running free enjoying herself, when all of sudden ________ (you fill in the blank). The fact is, no matter how careful or responsible you may be, your dog will STILL GET LOOSE and will make a fool out of you. Only a very small percentage of trainers have the expertise to teach you the true art of off-leash training; make sure you look in the right places. A huge list of my clientèle includes those who are dying to get their dogs completely off-leash trained. This is because the trainer in which they've worked with, didn't have a clue on how to get his/her own dog off-leash trained--let alone be able to help someone else with it. Or, you see the trainers' dog was truly the only real "trained dog" in there, but they just can't get the poor owners to achieve the same results with their dogs. How sad and pathetic!
6. Your Dog's Age NEVER Matters to Them
Whether be a ten week old pup or ten years adult dog, your dog is smart enough to learn what is right and what is wrong. What is acceptable and what isn't. Your dog's annoying bad habits such as: Barking, Jumping, Growling, Snapping, Bolting and Not Being Fully House Trained, along with any other bad habits or even responding to your daily commands aren't impossible tasks for the real experts to overcome. This means that they are well-educated and experienced in solving your dog's day-to-day issues and love to take on the challenge. Why let your older dog or your young puppy run your life for you, when you are the one who is paying all the bills and providing everything else? The least your dog can do is to respect and obey your commands and respect the rules of your house. Is that too much to ask?
7. They Gladly Accept Even Hard-to-Train Breeds
Real experts in dogs are skilled, versatile, and welcome the challenge of working with stubborn AND dominant dogs. It doesn't really matter to them whether your dog is labeled as aggressive, un-trainable, red zone, or hopeless. They are willing to accept the risk and give you and your dog another honest chance. Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, Akitas, Dobermans, German Shepherds, Bull Dogs (English or American), Chow Chows, Shar Pei, and those giant breeds that look like Pit Bulls on steroids. I am talking about: Presa Canario, Cane Corso, Argentino Dogo and Kevin Salemo, are just to name a few among the hard-to-train breeds. You may find this hard to believe, but even Labrador Retrievers can be a challenge to train. This is because they are known to be very strong, hyper, over-friendly and easily distracted.
You see, when a dog expert is willing to accept a case of an aggressive, sensitive, overprotective, excessive barker, whiner, or even one that's a bit unpredictable, that's when they HAVE TO rely on years of experience, knowledge, skill and even their instinct. This is because they are a true dog lover and don't discriminate against certain breeds and experienced enough to take on any challenge. Small, big, scary, wussy, mixed, pure breed or not, it doesn't make not one bit of difference to them. A dog, is simply another dog to them.
8. Their Method Might Be Firm, but It is Also Kind
Let's face it. No parent can ever raise a child properly without being firm and kind. Firm alone may still get you some results, but that "kind" is what makes it more of a loving and healthy relationship. I met a trainer years ago that had a super dog. This dog was one of the most well-trained German Shepherds I have ever seen. The sad part is, when his trainer would release him and send him off to play, the dog would still stand there and look at him for another command. Yes you guessed it. The dog became a soldier, a robot that just couldn't have fun anymore. He wouldn't even want to or even knew how, to play with my dogs. How sad. I told the trainer that you are definitely this dog's master, but not his best friend. He shrugged and said, "Kevin, you can be his best friend. I don't really care about stuff like that."
In order to make sure you don't end up with such a dog, you need to make sure you are also your dog's "buddy." When your dog makes a mistake, you need to correct it at that "exact" moment, and also praise and reward it lavishly on the spot. As long as you don't confuse firm with harsh or abusive, you should be fine. Just don't forget. Firm could be a simple as tugging on the leash when you catch your dog misbehave, and follow it with praise and affection when you see him obey or stop an unwanted behavior. It could also be to stop your dog's lunging, jumping, barking, snapping or even crotch/butt sniffing. Just holding tightly on your dog's leash for your life isn't training, that's called restraining. Do you want to train your dog or restrain it? That's what I thought. Now you'll always know when you see a true pro. They make working with all dogs seem so easy, that you swear they can even do it blindfolded. Your dog will listen and obey them without any yelling or the need of excessive force.
You'll see the smoothness and the flow in their technique, as your dog performs at his best right before your eyes--as if it is "their" dog and NOT yours.
This simply reflects the fact that they've worked with thousands of different breeds of dogs, have years of hands-on experience, and possess that amazing ability to accurately read dogs' temperament and body language with no effort and be able to apply their training technique on your dog. Their uncanny ability to read dogs so well and have the confidence and the skill to back it up, is why they are so well known for delivering such outstanding results.
9. They Let You Experiment with the Use of Different Training Tools
You can gather the best dog experts in the world, don't provide them any leashes, no collars, no harnesses, no whistles, no ropes, no toys, no treats and no tennis balls--they might as well be in their swimming suits. Then throw in some unruly dogs in there. You'll see that there won't be much that anyone can do. Unless one of the possess some kind of mind control like Criss Angel over the dogs and people, which I really would like to see for myself to believe, there isn't much any of these top experts can do without the right training tools.
Think about it for a moment. Can you do YOUR job without your pen, paper, phone, a desk, your vehicle, your computer or the certain tools and equipments that make your job run easier and smoother? Maybe you can. But you might as well be traveling back in time with your time-machine hundreds years back. Don't you agree that certain tools DO work better and faster? It's not much different when it comes to dog training tools. If there is a tool that works best on your dog, these trainers will let you try it. They truly use every weapon they can get their hands on and make sure you are able to control your dog in ANY situation and are happy with your results. This is because they always think outside the box.
Diverse Trainers know from experience that there isn't that "one magical tool" that works on every dog, every time. They improvise to make sure what works today, also does tomorrow!
After all, why use a tool that stopped working, was never effective in the first place, or doesn't even seem to faze your dog when you REALLY need it to work? Again, I am referring to see if that tool of your choice is truly as effective around strangers and the dogs in which your pooch is not familiar with. Let's not forget the cats, kids running around, or the joggers. Every one of these examples are considered as your daily distractions, don't they? Most trainers these days will have a nonsense tool that might have worked with a smaller, less dominant, less hyper and not as aggressive dog, hoping it will have the same effect with a much larger, stronger and far more aggressive dog. It reminds of "Bringing a knife to a gun fight." What's sad is that the majority of these trainers will stubbornly refuse to let the poor clients be diverse by trying a different tool. This especially doesn't make sense to me when you've exhausted the use of many different training tools up to this point and are desperate to try anything that would work.
In conclusion, this all comes down to finding a tool that is a best match according to your physical strengths, limitations, coordination AND your dog's size, speed, breed, prey drive and how much your dog responds to you with and without challenging distractions.
10. They Rarely Give Up and Follow a "Diverse Method"
Topnotch trainers never believe that your dog cannot be trained. Their way of thinking is completely different. They focus more on HOW they can help you train your dog. This means they are willing to explore different methods if and when needed. In a nutshell, what makes these trainers brilliant is their ability to mix different methods of training to custom fit what works best for you and your pooch. All that really matters to them is making sure that the method works-and it works "every-single-time." Sometimes this means you need to get firm with your dog, and sometimes you should ease up and cut him some slack.
There you have it. Now do you believe me? Didn't I say that they truly make only one percent of the dog experts in the industry?
You'll agree with me that, there are many trainers out there, but only a few masters. These are the true qualities of the legendary dog trainers. Such greatness is extremely hard to come by. As I mentioned earlier, I strongly believe that they make less than one percent of dog experts in the industry. They are surely the most highly paid canine experts money can buy. In meeting these individuals I found them to be amazing. They were excellent trainers and amazing instructors. They were extremely confident, and sometimes even a bit cocky--but always backed it up with their knowledge and skill. This reminds me of my what I always say,
"It's good to be humble unless you are pressed against the wall and only then should you be able to CRUSH your competition." Or, "Act strong when you're weak and weak when you are strong." ( That last one isn't mine. I borrowed it from a boxing movie.)
Most of these individuals have dedicated years of their lives in making a difference by helping dogs, dog owners, and even other dog trainers. Remember, there is a big difference between having a well-behaved dog and possessing the technique, the knowledge, the patience, and the proper communication skills to TEACH it to others. These experts have mastered all of ten of these principles! This is why they are incredibly successful and come highly recommended by everyone. If you are a trainer reading this, to become one of the greatest, you need to improve in all of these ten areas. That's right. Not just good, better, or excellent, but to be among the greatest icons, dog phenomena, and the true legends. Teaching group classes on the side every Wednesday night at seven won't do it.
Is there a legend in your town? Maybe, maybe not. Most of my clients travel hours to work with me. Some even have me fly to their city and sometimes even COUNTRIES because they weren't impressed by any other expert locally, or were told that their dog was hopeless.
There are lots of experts, but only a few legends. Isn't this true in any profession?







Kevin Salem is considered to be one of the brightest minds in the world of dog training and one of the pioneers in his field. It's hard to paint Kevin's image with the same brush as others, as his unique way of thinking, writing, and philosophy truly makes him distinct.
If you are a fan of Cesar Millan, it will be difficult not to fall in love with Kevin's book. You'll finally be able to put an end to your dog's: Jumping Up, House-training, Play-biting, Barking, Leash Pulling, Destructiveness, Bolting Out, Over-protectiveness-- to complete off-leash response. 10 week old pups to 10 yr old adults, all breeds welcome. Kevin offers Doggie Boot Camp or House Calls Nationwide. Try his book, hire him in person, or see him put his eyebrow raising skills into action by visiting his award-winning web site: http://www.DogSecrets.com