Having a dog as your companion can be a true joy. However, you don't want your beloved buddy chewing your new shoes or going to the bathroom in the house. Therefore, you need to create a dog training plan to help your new puppy or dog understand the rules of the house.
What things should you focus on in dog training when you want your dog to understand the expected behaviors and even some fun tricks? Should you take dog training classes or complete dog training all on your own? The answer to these questions is that it depends. Take a look at the following dog training options to determine what type of dog training you want to provide for your canine best friend.
Possible dog training options include: a beginning obedience class that you can take through your local human society, dog supply stores such as PETCO, community recreation departments, and local colleges. These dog training classes can vary in price, time commitment, and personal attention. They are usually affordable and meet once a week at a community park. It is a great way to not only have your dog experience basic dog training, but socialize with other dogs as well.
If you have the financial resources and time you can hire a personal dog trainer. This type of trainer may be necessary if your pooch is having a hard time in basic classes and your dog training efforts aren't making a difference. Before you invest in a private dog trainer it is important to make an accurate assessment of your dog training methods. Often times a dog that is not following directions is the result of the poor dog training by the dog's owner.
A private dog trainer might be necessary if you are going to show your dog at dog shows. You can hire a dog trainer/handler or you can become one yourself. If you do, you must know the proper dog training techniques. You don't want to have Fido jump up on the judges during the competition so he must be trained thoroughly and correctly.
You can also search through dog training books, guides, and various resources. There are products that will help you complete dog training such as special collars and muzzles. You can effectively go through a dog training regime with your canine if you follow these eight dog training tips.
Tip #1: Many people start their dog on the path to dog training success by enrolling them in a basic obedience class. This is a great idea because you will learn how to teach your do basic commands such as "sit", "stay", and "heel".
You can teach these dog training commands by using verbal commands and physical actions. For example, right after you say the word "sit" you gently push your dog's bottom down onto the ground and put them in the sit position. Immediately say "good" and smile. Give them a tasty treat as well. Basically, you want to do as much as you can to reinforce the action of sitting when you say "sit".
Tip #2: Dogs act like absorbent sponges when it comes to learning proper behavior and tricks. If you do your job properly then dog training should be a hit. Your dog is ready and eager to learn proper behavior. They want to please you. Therefore, if they aren't following your instruction it might not be their fault. You might be giving confusing dog training instructions.
Tip #3: Dogs thrive on positive reinforcement and encouragement. Positive reinforcement such as acting excited and petting your dog when they do the right behavior help with your dog training efforts. It is a dogâÂ(TM)s nature to want to be close to you and make you happy. Showing encouragement and praise will help your dog much farther, much faster in their dog training. Make sure to encourage a dog through each dog training accomplishment, no matter how big or small.
Tip #4: Food is a powerful motivator when it comes to dog training. You will be hard pressed to find a dog that passes up food or a tasty treat. Dogs are always hungry and welcome any situation where food is involved.
Tip #5: Dog training should be a gradual process with regards to skill level and learning more complex commands. Give your dog time to understand new commands. They most likely won't learn it the first day you teach them. You will have to review the commands and proper behaviors often.
Tip #6: Have dog training sessions at various times throughout the day. Your dog needs periodic training to reinforce the proper behaviors. You dog's attention span can wane, so make sure to keep the training sessions to five to ten minutes long.
Tip #7: When you first start dog training work in environment that is free from distractions so your dog can focus on their behavior. Once your dog understands the basic commands you can try to use the commands in a busier environment.
One thing you may find is that your dog is distracted and seems to have forgotten the commands. Don't fret. This can happen because dogs tend to be situational learners and your dog just needs to work on the commands in the busier environment.
Tip #8: Too many treats equals an overweight dog. Dog training is a process that involves tasty treats, but too many of these treats can be a bad idea for your dog's waistline. Use small treats and wean your dog off treats as they understand the different commands. They will then rely on your praise as the positive reinforcement for each behavior.
These eight dog training tips will set you on the road to happy, healthy, obedient pooch.
Visit the dog products website to research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog health, dog grooming & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.
Monday, 17 January 2011
Sunday, 16 January 2011
3 Simple Steps For the Best All Natural Dog Foods Available Using This Homemade Dog Food Recipe
Have you been looking for dog foods information to find the best all natural dog foods or homemade dog food recipe to make your own all natural dog foods?
All natural dog foods are in high demand right now because of the information surfacing on what commercial dog food suppliers are really putting in dog foods. There is no coincidence in the trend of our weakening dog's health and the fact that many ingredients in dog foods today, that many dog food suppliers use, are really not good for your dog's health.
At the "American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association Conference" the use of grains by dog food suppliers in commercial dog foods and home-prepared pet foods was questioned. Grains like oats, wheat, rice, barley, etc. are mainly complex carbohydrates, they also contain some protein, fiber, B-vitamins and a few trace minerals, however, these grains are not part of an all natural dog foods diet of wild dogs. Dogs do not have dietary requirements for complex carbohydrates and can receive the other elements they contain from other sources that are more digestible and nutritionally beneficial for your dog. Grains must also be cooked or sprouted and thoroughly chewed to be digested, which carnivores do not chew very much.
Why grains are not part of the best all natural dog foods?
Dog Food suppliers introduced them into your dog foods because the high carbohydrate content provides cheap calories. Dogs never ate grains in the wild in the amount that dog food suppliers put in today's dog foods.
The enzyme amylase is produced by your dog's pancreas to digest and utilize carbohydrates. Your dog cannot continually produce the amount of amylase required for the high complex carbohydrates in dog foods today without added stress on your dog's digestive system. Also grain proteins are not as digestible as animal proteins which can cause your dog's immune system to become irritated and weaker. The result can be allergies and other chronic immune disorders for your dog. Some of the symptoms your dog may experience from eating grains are poor digestion, bad breath, bowel trouble, gas, itching, hot spots plus other allergic reactions.
Recently it has come to light that some major dog food suppliers of high quality dog foods that advertised certain types of protein like chicken were using things like chicken feet only in their dog foods. Common sense tells us chicken feet cannot contain the same protein as the whole chicken.
Because there have been so many incidents like this reported about dog food suppliers, along with the amount of grains and other questionable ingredients used in dog foods today, the only way to assure your dog gets the best all natural dog foods possible, is for you to make them yourself.
What should I use for the best all natural dog foods in my homemade dog food recipe?
Below is a good basic homemade dog food recipe. Remember any sudden change in your dog's diet can cause your dog to have an upset stomach, so start with mixing a small amount of your new homemade dog food recipe in with the dog foods you are currently using. Every day increase your homemade dog food recipe amount and decrease the commercial dog foods you have been using. In a week to 10 days your dog will now have the best all natural dog foods available. You will also be surprised at how affordable it is.
A good rule of thumb for your homemade dog food recipe is 1 pound of raw or cooked food per day per 50 pounds of body weight of your pet. So if your pet weighs 100 pounds your dog would eat 2 pounds of your homemade dog food recipe daily and if your dog weighs 10 pounds your dog would eat 1/5 pound or 3.2 oz.
Bones become brittle and can splinter when they are old or cooked so you should only give your dog raw fresh bones. Your dog also cannot digest large pieces of vegetable without them being chopped finely, put through a blender or a food processor.
Use organ meats and inexpensive cuts of meat along with discount produce that has ripened. You can use whole chicken or turkey wings, necks and backs in your homemade dog food recipe to make your all natural dog foods as long as you do not cook them, the bones must be fed raw so they will not splinter.
Make up large batches and freeze your new all natural dog foods in serving size portions for your dog, then just take out the night before and refrigerate. Add any supplements at the time of feeding. You can feed your dog 2 times daily just divide the amount your dog needs daily in half for each feeding.
The following basic homemade dog food recipe will yield approximately 2 cups of food or 1 pound of the best prepared all natural dog foods available. The following all natural dog foods recipe is a 75% meat 25% vegetable combination. This simulates a dog's diet in the wild.
3 Simple Steps for the Best All Natural Dog Foods with this Homemade Dog Food Recipe
1) Use 12 ounces coarse-ground or chopped meat, raw or cooked. You can rotate a variety of meats, poultry and fish (organic or natural are best) for your all natural dog foods.
2) Use 4 ounces ground or chopped finely, mixed vegetables, raw or cooked. Again organic is the best choice for your all natural dog foods. Many stores will discount over-ripe produce.
3) Optional ingredients you can use in your all natural dog foods are whole eggs (including shells), alfalfa, kelp, barley or wheat grass, garlic, spirulina, chlorella, apples, pears, bananas, parsley, nettles, almonds, walnuts, fish oil for omega-3's and a shiny coat (which indicates your dog's health), plus a good vitamin and mineral supplement for your dog's optimum health.
Combine the above ingredients with warm purified water, because the best all natural dog foods are the consistency of a thick stew. Your dog will also benefit from this more natural source of water.
You can make the difference in your dog's health just by preparing this easy all natural dog foods homemade dog food recipe. Give this all natural dog foods recipe a chance for a month and see if you notice added vitality and vigor plus a new shiny coat on your dog.
Sherrie Chastain
Health Care and Beauty Consultant
http://www.sherriechastain.com
http://www.flagstaffkennelclub.com
All natural dog foods are in high demand right now because of the information surfacing on what commercial dog food suppliers are really putting in dog foods. There is no coincidence in the trend of our weakening dog's health and the fact that many ingredients in dog foods today, that many dog food suppliers use, are really not good for your dog's health.
At the "American Holistic Veterinary Medical Association Conference" the use of grains by dog food suppliers in commercial dog foods and home-prepared pet foods was questioned. Grains like oats, wheat, rice, barley, etc. are mainly complex carbohydrates, they also contain some protein, fiber, B-vitamins and a few trace minerals, however, these grains are not part of an all natural dog foods diet of wild dogs. Dogs do not have dietary requirements for complex carbohydrates and can receive the other elements they contain from other sources that are more digestible and nutritionally beneficial for your dog. Grains must also be cooked or sprouted and thoroughly chewed to be digested, which carnivores do not chew very much.
Why grains are not part of the best all natural dog foods?
Dog Food suppliers introduced them into your dog foods because the high carbohydrate content provides cheap calories. Dogs never ate grains in the wild in the amount that dog food suppliers put in today's dog foods.
The enzyme amylase is produced by your dog's pancreas to digest and utilize carbohydrates. Your dog cannot continually produce the amount of amylase required for the high complex carbohydrates in dog foods today without added stress on your dog's digestive system. Also grain proteins are not as digestible as animal proteins which can cause your dog's immune system to become irritated and weaker. The result can be allergies and other chronic immune disorders for your dog. Some of the symptoms your dog may experience from eating grains are poor digestion, bad breath, bowel trouble, gas, itching, hot spots plus other allergic reactions.
Recently it has come to light that some major dog food suppliers of high quality dog foods that advertised certain types of protein like chicken were using things like chicken feet only in their dog foods. Common sense tells us chicken feet cannot contain the same protein as the whole chicken.
Because there have been so many incidents like this reported about dog food suppliers, along with the amount of grains and other questionable ingredients used in dog foods today, the only way to assure your dog gets the best all natural dog foods possible, is for you to make them yourself.
What should I use for the best all natural dog foods in my homemade dog food recipe?
Below is a good basic homemade dog food recipe. Remember any sudden change in your dog's diet can cause your dog to have an upset stomach, so start with mixing a small amount of your new homemade dog food recipe in with the dog foods you are currently using. Every day increase your homemade dog food recipe amount and decrease the commercial dog foods you have been using. In a week to 10 days your dog will now have the best all natural dog foods available. You will also be surprised at how affordable it is.
A good rule of thumb for your homemade dog food recipe is 1 pound of raw or cooked food per day per 50 pounds of body weight of your pet. So if your pet weighs 100 pounds your dog would eat 2 pounds of your homemade dog food recipe daily and if your dog weighs 10 pounds your dog would eat 1/5 pound or 3.2 oz.
Bones become brittle and can splinter when they are old or cooked so you should only give your dog raw fresh bones. Your dog also cannot digest large pieces of vegetable without them being chopped finely, put through a blender or a food processor.
Use organ meats and inexpensive cuts of meat along with discount produce that has ripened. You can use whole chicken or turkey wings, necks and backs in your homemade dog food recipe to make your all natural dog foods as long as you do not cook them, the bones must be fed raw so they will not splinter.
Make up large batches and freeze your new all natural dog foods in serving size portions for your dog, then just take out the night before and refrigerate. Add any supplements at the time of feeding. You can feed your dog 2 times daily just divide the amount your dog needs daily in half for each feeding.
The following basic homemade dog food recipe will yield approximately 2 cups of food or 1 pound of the best prepared all natural dog foods available. The following all natural dog foods recipe is a 75% meat 25% vegetable combination. This simulates a dog's diet in the wild.
3 Simple Steps for the Best All Natural Dog Foods with this Homemade Dog Food Recipe
1) Use 12 ounces coarse-ground or chopped meat, raw or cooked. You can rotate a variety of meats, poultry and fish (organic or natural are best) for your all natural dog foods.
2) Use 4 ounces ground or chopped finely, mixed vegetables, raw or cooked. Again organic is the best choice for your all natural dog foods. Many stores will discount over-ripe produce.
3) Optional ingredients you can use in your all natural dog foods are whole eggs (including shells), alfalfa, kelp, barley or wheat grass, garlic, spirulina, chlorella, apples, pears, bananas, parsley, nettles, almonds, walnuts, fish oil for omega-3's and a shiny coat (which indicates your dog's health), plus a good vitamin and mineral supplement for your dog's optimum health.
Combine the above ingredients with warm purified water, because the best all natural dog foods are the consistency of a thick stew. Your dog will also benefit from this more natural source of water.
You can make the difference in your dog's health just by preparing this easy all natural dog foods homemade dog food recipe. Give this all natural dog foods recipe a chance for a month and see if you notice added vitality and vigor plus a new shiny coat on your dog.
Sherrie Chastain
Health Care and Beauty Consultant
http://www.sherriechastain.com
http://www.flagstaffkennelclub.com
Saturday, 15 January 2011
Barking Dog Problems, Anyone?
I see barking for dogs as talking for humans, so why would you want to stop barking dogs. They and we all need to express ourselves. Whether your dog is the most posh Poodle or the poorest Pavement special that nobody wanted, they all bark. As far as I know there is only one breed that does not bark and that's the Basenji. Dogs bark for any number of reasons and believe you me we will not understand all of them. A dog's logic is quite different to ours. Before your dog drives you barking mad, let's try and understand the reasons for your barking dog problems and what can possibly be done to stop barking dogs.
Barking Dog Problems-Stop barking dogs
As I said who knows what goes in the furry brains of our dogs. Basically we can attempt to understand barking dog problems by observing our dogs to determine the reasons which have triggered the barking. There is a huge list of barking triggers or reasons, some of which I have indicated below. I have also included some fixes or ideas to resolve the various types of barking dog problems as well. I suppose there are many people that will go to great lengths to stop barking dogs, so I have outlined some advice and provided some great links to assist with all barking dog problems.
Nervous barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? This is a major problem for many dog owners, how to stop barking dogs? Problem is, too many owners never get to see the real deal, because as the name implies, you've left the building and your dog is nervous. So this is what happens while you are out. As the dog becomes more anxious you will often find that the pitch of the barking becomes higher as well. Sometimes the dog will even start howling. Understandably, you neighbor is going to get mental and you will end up having a bad relationship with your neighbor and possibly face fines as well. If your dog is very attached to you and follows you like his tail follows him, then your departure will most probably lead to this type of behavior. You've separated yourself from the dog so the dog becomes anxious.
How to stop barking dogs! Dog's are smart, if you have a set routine when leaving, they will pick this up and start getting anxious the moment you pick up keys, or put on your shoes etc. You need to get to a point where your dog does not suspect you are leaving soon. Also, you need to train your dog to be ok with you being gone for different periods of time. So disrupt your routine when leaving, don't follow the same sequence whenever you leave your house. Also try leaving for a few minutes and come back again, so that the dog becomes comfortable with you not being around and has not started getting nervous or anxious yet. Don't give your dog to much attention or affection prior to leaving. The main point is that you need to break routine and keep your dog oblivious of your comings and goings. Effectively, what you dog does not know will not hurt him, or in this case, make the dog anxious. If you really cannot bear to see your dogs being anxious or afraid, there are options such as doggy day care or pet companions or sitters. There are already too many abandoned dogs at the pound due the inability of owners to get barking dog problems under control.
Territorial Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? These type of barking dog problems occur when the dog feels his territory is under threat. Yes, can you believe it dogs are territorial, who knew. If your dog can see strangers or other dogs through the perimeter fence on your property, guess what, he is going to think they are invaders and will bark to indicate that this is his territory. Often this barking is accompanied with growling sounds as well. The dog is just trying to let any likely intruder know that he means business. To some degree these barking dog problems are desirable, wouldn't you agree. It's another issue though when you're out walking the dog and he won't let up with this territorial barking.
How to stop barking dogs! Well as mentioned earlier, a little territorial barking may well be a good thing. Sometimes it is not such a good idea to stop barking dogs altogether. However, if you'd like to regain your position as the Alpha Dog, then you need to assert your authority on the dog. When you dog commences territorial barking, try and distract him by spraying water in his mouth or face and issue a short forceful command such as STOP NOW or similar. If he goes quiet then be sure to praise him to let him know that he is doing the right thing. As with all training of dogs, repetition is the key so as always, you'll need to persevere and be patient.
Attention Seeking Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? Well I think this is pretty much, self explanatory. The dog wants attention and will bark until he gets it. This barking also occurs when the dog is bored. If human contact is very limited or the dog has nothing to keep him occupied, especially younger dogs, then expect to see this type of attention seeking barking. Usually it's quite an irritating yap yap sound which can drag on and on. To stop barking dogs here, is certainly a highly desired goal.
How to stop barking dogs! For starters, you should try spending more time with your dog; it's generally good for the soul. Also try to ensure that your dog isn't locked in an area all day which is devoid of any dog entertainment. By this, I mean, make provision for some chew toys or similar with which the dog can entertain himself when he is alone. If you cannot be there for your dog all the time, consider getting him a sidekick or playmate. Who knows, there are so many unwanted dogs out there that need good homes. All they want is love and attention, a small price to pay for their loyalty and commitment and will certainly go a long way to stop barking dogs.
Fearful Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? I'm sure we have all seen this type of barking in our dogs at one time or another. If ever you have let of fireworks or there has been a loud thunderstorm, you may have seen your dog displaying fearful barking. This type of barking is very sharp and short and you can see in the dog's posture that he is afraid. Usually the dogs tail will be down low or even between his hind legs and his ears will be flattened on his head. These are sure indicators that your dog is afraid. Kind of difficult to blame dogs for these type of barking dog problems.
How to stop barking dogs! Well for starters, don't let fireworks off anywhere near your dog. Another idea is too train your dog to become familiar with loud sharp sounds such as thunder, loud noises etc. This can be achieved by playing back recordings of similar sounds to your dog, firstly at a low volume and gradually increasing the volume, until your dog becomes familiar with these sounds. It won't hurt to comfort the dog when they are fearful like this and that may well help to calm or even stop barking dogs. I'm sure we could all do with some re-assurance when we're afraid.
Barking dog problems -why stop barking dogs?
There are many more descriptions for a huge variety of dog barking, such as Frustration Barking, Greeting Barking, Compulsive Barking too name but a few. Generally you need to try and observe what brought on the barking and also observer your dog's posture when the barking is occurring. It stands to reason that if you have the trigger "cause" then you can most probably use a bit of common sense to stop barking dogs. There are also many products available to purchase which may resolve your barking dogs problems. Some of these products like the shock collar don't sit well with me, but each, to his, own. Imagine being shocked every time your voice went above a certain decibel rating.
Ultimately dogs were born with a voice and it's known as barking. Fair enough, some types of barking we would want to control or limit. As with people, some are just more barkative than others. Certainly if your dog's barking is going to land you in court with frustrated neighbors or at the mercy of the local authorities, then something will need to be done to stop the barking dog. In most cases the barking dog problems can be resolved by you educating yourself to train your dog. At the end of the day the, why stop barking dogs? Sometimes you may want your dog to bark especially if he is alerting you to something. Good luck and feel free to check out the links on the right to see some really comprehensive guides relating to this rather contentious issue.
Hi, my names Derek and I am a Dog Lover and Enthusiast. I am not an expert and do not have any degree or fancy diploma. I do not know everything but I know quite a lot of things. I've had over a lifetime of experience with dogs and I am learning new things about them each day. I hope that this does not come to an end. Life would be pretty boring if there was nothing new to discover. Why don't you join me in this quest for knowledge about "man's best friend" at my website http://www.besthappydog.com/ where I share my insights as well as many experts advice, you know, the one's with the degree's and diploma's.
I would also recommend subscribing to my newsletter and receiving this free book http://www.besthappydog.com/how-to-be-the-alpha-dog/, for some really great training advice and tips.
Hope to see you soon, thanks for reading my article.
Cheers for now.
Regards
Derek
LIVE...
LOVE...
LIFE....
to the MAX!
Barking Dog Problems-Stop barking dogs
As I said who knows what goes in the furry brains of our dogs. Basically we can attempt to understand barking dog problems by observing our dogs to determine the reasons which have triggered the barking. There is a huge list of barking triggers or reasons, some of which I have indicated below. I have also included some fixes or ideas to resolve the various types of barking dog problems as well. I suppose there are many people that will go to great lengths to stop barking dogs, so I have outlined some advice and provided some great links to assist with all barking dog problems.
Nervous barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? This is a major problem for many dog owners, how to stop barking dogs? Problem is, too many owners never get to see the real deal, because as the name implies, you've left the building and your dog is nervous. So this is what happens while you are out. As the dog becomes more anxious you will often find that the pitch of the barking becomes higher as well. Sometimes the dog will even start howling. Understandably, you neighbor is going to get mental and you will end up having a bad relationship with your neighbor and possibly face fines as well. If your dog is very attached to you and follows you like his tail follows him, then your departure will most probably lead to this type of behavior. You've separated yourself from the dog so the dog becomes anxious.
How to stop barking dogs! Dog's are smart, if you have a set routine when leaving, they will pick this up and start getting anxious the moment you pick up keys, or put on your shoes etc. You need to get to a point where your dog does not suspect you are leaving soon. Also, you need to train your dog to be ok with you being gone for different periods of time. So disrupt your routine when leaving, don't follow the same sequence whenever you leave your house. Also try leaving for a few minutes and come back again, so that the dog becomes comfortable with you not being around and has not started getting nervous or anxious yet. Don't give your dog to much attention or affection prior to leaving. The main point is that you need to break routine and keep your dog oblivious of your comings and goings. Effectively, what you dog does not know will not hurt him, or in this case, make the dog anxious. If you really cannot bear to see your dogs being anxious or afraid, there are options such as doggy day care or pet companions or sitters. There are already too many abandoned dogs at the pound due the inability of owners to get barking dog problems under control.
Territorial Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? These type of barking dog problems occur when the dog feels his territory is under threat. Yes, can you believe it dogs are territorial, who knew. If your dog can see strangers or other dogs through the perimeter fence on your property, guess what, he is going to think they are invaders and will bark to indicate that this is his territory. Often this barking is accompanied with growling sounds as well. The dog is just trying to let any likely intruder know that he means business. To some degree these barking dog problems are desirable, wouldn't you agree. It's another issue though when you're out walking the dog and he won't let up with this territorial barking.
How to stop barking dogs! Well as mentioned earlier, a little territorial barking may well be a good thing. Sometimes it is not such a good idea to stop barking dogs altogether. However, if you'd like to regain your position as the Alpha Dog, then you need to assert your authority on the dog. When you dog commences territorial barking, try and distract him by spraying water in his mouth or face and issue a short forceful command such as STOP NOW or similar. If he goes quiet then be sure to praise him to let him know that he is doing the right thing. As with all training of dogs, repetition is the key so as always, you'll need to persevere and be patient.
Attention Seeking Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? Well I think this is pretty much, self explanatory. The dog wants attention and will bark until he gets it. This barking also occurs when the dog is bored. If human contact is very limited or the dog has nothing to keep him occupied, especially younger dogs, then expect to see this type of attention seeking barking. Usually it's quite an irritating yap yap sound which can drag on and on. To stop barking dogs here, is certainly a highly desired goal.
How to stop barking dogs! For starters, you should try spending more time with your dog; it's generally good for the soul. Also try to ensure that your dog isn't locked in an area all day which is devoid of any dog entertainment. By this, I mean, make provision for some chew toys or similar with which the dog can entertain himself when he is alone. If you cannot be there for your dog all the time, consider getting him a sidekick or playmate. Who knows, there are so many unwanted dogs out there that need good homes. All they want is love and attention, a small price to pay for their loyalty and commitment and will certainly go a long way to stop barking dogs.
Fearful Barking dog problems:
Why does the dog do it? I'm sure we have all seen this type of barking in our dogs at one time or another. If ever you have let of fireworks or there has been a loud thunderstorm, you may have seen your dog displaying fearful barking. This type of barking is very sharp and short and you can see in the dog's posture that he is afraid. Usually the dogs tail will be down low or even between his hind legs and his ears will be flattened on his head. These are sure indicators that your dog is afraid. Kind of difficult to blame dogs for these type of barking dog problems.
How to stop barking dogs! Well for starters, don't let fireworks off anywhere near your dog. Another idea is too train your dog to become familiar with loud sharp sounds such as thunder, loud noises etc. This can be achieved by playing back recordings of similar sounds to your dog, firstly at a low volume and gradually increasing the volume, until your dog becomes familiar with these sounds. It won't hurt to comfort the dog when they are fearful like this and that may well help to calm or even stop barking dogs. I'm sure we could all do with some re-assurance when we're afraid.
Barking dog problems -why stop barking dogs?
There are many more descriptions for a huge variety of dog barking, such as Frustration Barking, Greeting Barking, Compulsive Barking too name but a few. Generally you need to try and observe what brought on the barking and also observer your dog's posture when the barking is occurring. It stands to reason that if you have the trigger "cause" then you can most probably use a bit of common sense to stop barking dogs. There are also many products available to purchase which may resolve your barking dogs problems. Some of these products like the shock collar don't sit well with me, but each, to his, own. Imagine being shocked every time your voice went above a certain decibel rating.
Ultimately dogs were born with a voice and it's known as barking. Fair enough, some types of barking we would want to control or limit. As with people, some are just more barkative than others. Certainly if your dog's barking is going to land you in court with frustrated neighbors or at the mercy of the local authorities, then something will need to be done to stop the barking dog. In most cases the barking dog problems can be resolved by you educating yourself to train your dog. At the end of the day the, why stop barking dogs? Sometimes you may want your dog to bark especially if he is alerting you to something. Good luck and feel free to check out the links on the right to see some really comprehensive guides relating to this rather contentious issue.
Hi, my names Derek and I am a Dog Lover and Enthusiast. I am not an expert and do not have any degree or fancy diploma. I do not know everything but I know quite a lot of things. I've had over a lifetime of experience with dogs and I am learning new things about them each day. I hope that this does not come to an end. Life would be pretty boring if there was nothing new to discover. Why don't you join me in this quest for knowledge about "man's best friend" at my website http://www.besthappydog.com/ where I share my insights as well as many experts advice, you know, the one's with the degree's and diploma's.
I would also recommend subscribing to my newsletter and receiving this free book http://www.besthappydog.com/how-to-be-the-alpha-dog/, for some really great training advice and tips.
Hope to see you soon, thanks for reading my article.
Cheers for now.
Regards
Derek
LIVE...
LOVE...
LIFE....
to the MAX!
Friday, 14 January 2011
Basic Obedience Training - Secret of Having a Well-Behaved Dog - Training Tips For Different Dogs
A trained, obedient dog is a pleasure and a delight; a reliable, trustworthy and dependable companion whose behaviour will never give you cause for concern. On the other hand a spoiled, rowdy, pampered, undisciplined animal is a nuisance and frequently a source of great embarrassment. In the case of the larger, powerful breeds, an uncontrollable dog is a positive danger.
Although most dog owners would agree with the above, there are many who nevertheless shirk the responsibility of training their dogs because they mistakenly believe that it is a long, complex time-consuming process.
Obviously if you have ambitions to train your dog to Competition standard and to work with the perfect precision necessary for top honors in the Obedience ring, you must be prepared to devote a considerable amount of time to training. But if your purpose is simply to have a well-disciplined companion, you can achieve this goal without great effort and in a relatively short space of time.
If you are able to join one of the Obedience Dog Clubs in your area, so much the better. You will receive competent direction from an experienced trainer and in addition will have the opportunity of allowing your dog to come into contact with other dogs, which is a very great advantage.
Let us assume however that for various reasons this is not possible or convenient.
At the outset it is important for you to accept the fact that in order to have a well-behaved dog it is necessary for your dog to respect you in addition to loving you. You will command this respect by being firm, calm and confident in your manner without creating any confusion in your dog's mind.
How can you can command this respect? This is not as difficult as this may seem. There are certain basic rules to follow. Guide your dog in such a way that he has no doubt whatsoever as to what is required of him. Insist when you give a command it is in fact a command not a request. Praise him lavishly and unstintingly when he obeys your command. Reprimand him suitably and appropriately when he refuses to obey your command.
This is the basis of all obedience training. Praise for obeying a command and reprimand for disobeying a command.
Of these two factors, the question of reprimand is clearly the more difficult to apply. It also gives rise to the greatest difference of opinion in training methods.
Whereas it is virtually impossible to praise a dog too lavishly, and even if excessive praise is given no harm can result, an unnecessarily harsh reprimand of a sensitive young dogs for a relatively minor misdemeanor will have serious consequences and set your training back many months.
Understand the command.
Another point that should always be borne in mind is that you must always be absolutely certain that your dog understands the command you have given. If you have the slightest doubt on this score, the dog must be given the benefit before he is reprimanded.
All commands must be given in a firm, confident manner without raising your voice unnecessarily. There is no need whatsoever to act as if you were a drill sergeant on a parade ground. Any screaming or loss of control on your part - even if you consider you are being deliberately provoked - will only jeopardize the training process.
You want your dog to respect you by accepting the fact that you are someone prepared to guide him but who will not allow yourself to be taken advantage of by disobedience.
This can be accomplished without loss of control on your part. It can be accomplished by reprimanding him adequately and suitably for any disobedience. As soon as he accepts the fact that your commands are not requests, will respect you. The whole relationship between you and your dog hinges on this attitude.
How to reprimand
Now to turn to the important question of how to reprimand for disregarding a command you have given. It must be accepted that the temperaments of different dogs are as varied as that of human beings. The temperaments of different breeds vary enormously and even within a breed certain strains vary in sensitivity. Dog and bitches will also react differently to reproof.
Because of this it is most important for you to assess accurately the level of sensitivity of the dog you are training. For example, a mild correction such as a sharp "No! You bad dog!" could quite easily be sufficient reproof for a sensitive Border Collie bitch in order to bring about the required change in behaviour. On the other hand a boisterous, Great Dane male or Rottweiler would, in some instances, require a more vigorous and pronounced indication of disapproval.
It must be remembered however, that one should not fall into the trap of categorizing breeds with regard to behaviour patterns.
In mentioning the boisterous Great Dane this by no means is meant to suggest that all Great Danes are in any way obstinate or difficult to train. There are tremendous variations in temperament within the breeds. In fact a young harlequin Great Dane that I have at the moment responds so readily to commands t it only necessary for me to give them in a very soft voiced - almost as a whisper!
The same applies to Shepherds. I have had obstinate, self-willed Shepherds, while others I have owned have been so eager to please they have been an absolute delight to train. They have required an absolute minimum of effort in training.
When you are absolutely certain your dog understands your command and there is no confusion as to what you want him to do, it might be necessary for you to give him a really hard jerk of the leash. Before doing so make certain his training collar is of sufficient length to give positive effect to the jerk. You should accompany the jerk with a very definite and unmistakable "No!"
Limits to the extent of training.
It might be well to mention at this stage that with certain dogs there are limits to the extent of training to which you can hope to aspire. Now this may sound very negative advice indeed but it is raising false hopes to pretend that every animal can reach the same level of training.
Certain breeds are noted for their independence of spirit and in fact devotees of these breeds admire them for these very qualities. For example, it is highly unlikely if your happen to be training a Daschund - as lovable as this breed of dog happens to be - or a miniature Schnauzer - that you will reach top honors in Obedience tests. This in no way is meant to suggest that your Daschund or Schnauzer cannot be trained to become very well disciplined, obedient and responsive.
Patience, understanding and application of the principle of praise and reprimand will achieve the desired results with any dog. But with certain dogs it requires more patience and perseverance than with others.
Choice of breed to train.
If you are an ambitious and competitive type of person and anxious to excel in Obedience tests, it will be necessary for you to be very judicious in your choice not only with regard to the breed you select, but also to the strain within the breed. There is no doubt whatsoever that some dogs are more amenable to training than others and the training process will involve far less time and effort
This applies particularly to the German Shepherd Dog, a breed with which I have been associated for more than fifty years. Any competitor in German Shepherd Dog working trials will tell you that if you hope to be successful in this highly competitive field it is necessary to be very selective in your choice of the Shepherd you intend training.
A examination of the pedigrees of the top winners in German Shepherd Dog working trials in Germany, the United States and Britain will reveal that certain "working" lines consistently produce the top winners. There is no question that intelligence and -more important - willingness to work are inherited traits.
In all probability however, you already have a dog. You love him dearly and have no intention of parting with him merely because his ancestors were not noted for their working qualifications.
Training dogs with different temperaments.
In order to assist you with your training methods, let us try and simplify the process and deal with three distinct types of temperaments frequently found in dogs.
Obviously there are many variations and many traits overlaps but for the purpose of this article let us deal with three distinct type of temperaments and examine the training methods necessary in each case.
1.Dog Number One.
The highly-strung, over-exuberant dog.
Here is a bundle of nervous energy; a highly-strung, excitable, over-exuberant, extremely noisy, boisterous animal. Sometimes he barks excessively without any apparent reason. Often he is over-aggressive towards others dogs and even humans.
2. Dog Number two.
The shy, timid dog.
This dog is very shy, timid and completely lacking in self-confidence. He shrinks from human contact and when confronted with any situation with which he is unable to cope, he either backs into a corner and barks hysterically or otherwise rolls on his back in abject submissiveness.
3. Dog Number three.
The lazy dog.
This animal is quiet, docile to the point of disinterest, sluggish, dully and lazy, completely without enthusiasm except for his dinner dish.
Now we have three distinct types of dog - possibly somewhat exaggerated - but nevertheless easily recognizable. Our objective in each case is the same - to have a well-disciplined animal that will obey our commands,
Because this article is limited in scope let us presume that our initial training objective is to have a dog that will walk quietly at heel without pulling, dragging, straining or lagging. Let us examine how this can be achieved using the above three dogs as training examples.
For our purpose we shall require a leather lead and a training collar of sufficient length and sufficient strength. Place the collar over the neck in such a way that when the leash is jerked the collar will tighten and when the lead if relaxed the collar fits loosely. This simple training collar is a remarkable training device that will work equally well with all three dogs.
Let us commence with Dog Number 1. We will to refer him as "Blitz".
"BLITZ."
With your ball of fire on our left side, you step briskly forward. The dog is given the command "Heel". Holding the leash very firmly in your right hand you nevertheless make certain there is sufficient slack to give the dog the impression that he is NOT firmly restrained. In fact, because of this slackness, the dog is uncertain whether he is on lead or not
As expected the dog proceeds for exactly five seconds and then like a bolt he surges forward. With leather leash very firmly held by the right hand - or both hands if you prefer - you allow the dog to bolt forward until almost at the end of the lead. At this point you simply do a smart about turn. Note: There is no reprimand whatsoever!
In fact not a word is said. If your timing has been correct - and this may require some practice - a very surprised ball of fire will find himself being air-borne and completely jerked off his feet by his momentum.
He turns in mid-air to find you walking in the opposite direction At this stage you call his name very pleasantly and enthusiastically. "Good boy, Blitz! Heel boy!" and you pat your left leg encouragingly.
A somewhat confused "Blitz" comes running up to your left to receive his just rewards - lavish praise and a loving pat on his head!
Remember No word of reprimand should be given. "Blitz" was told to heel. He didn't heel and the jerk he received will not be associated with any unpleasantness caused by you. It was entirely his own fault; due to his own ineptness and clumsiness in not staying close to your left side.
There will be occasions in the future where you will be required to jerk the lead as a definite reprimand and accompany the jerk with a vocal reprimand. "Blitz" will then have no doubt in his mind that this jerk is a reprimand. But at this stage our purpose is to confuse "Blitz" into believing that the discomfort he received by being jerked off his fee was entirely his own fault.
After no more than 4 or 5 incidents of this nature a very disconcerted "Blitz" will suspect that every cat that darts in his path and every motor-cyclist who happens to ride by is merely a trick that has been devised to fool him into rushing after it and being jerked off his feet.
Quite soon you will be well on your way to having a dog who is a pleasure to take for a stroll because he heels comfortably at your side in spite of every possible distraction.
Dog number 2. "Flinch"
Quite clearly the method we used with Dog Number 1 will be unsuitable with dog Number 2 - the shy, timid dog who is lacking in self-confidence.
This dog - le us refer him as "Flinch - is so lacking in confidence that he is constant need of praise and assurance. Let it be quite clear that if one has the patience, perseverance and calm temperament to deal with a dog of this nature it is possible to have a remarkably good worker who will do everything possible to please you and earn your praise. He will ask nothing more from life than your praise and he will become absolutely devoted to you.
But, it should be stressed, dogs of this type do require a tremendous amount of patience, understanding and - above all - self-control. Whereas it is possible to speak harshly to most dogs without serious consequences, a dog of this nature will react most unfavorably to harshness and one thoughtless reprimand can set you back weeks of hard work in building up his confidence.
Dog refuses to budge.
After placing the collar on your "Flinch" and attaching the lead he is more than likely to set his hind-quarters on the ground and refuse to budge; or he will twist himself around your legs - pull to the right - to the side - dart off in the direction of home and do absolutely everything anything but the "heel" you have commanded him.
In this case you must resort once again to a little trickery, but of a different kind. Try and let him associate the training collar and the leash and the stroll with something pleasant. In your left hand or your left pocket keep little pieces of boiled liver that you have dried in the oven, or some other delicacy. If he refuses to budge coax him - encourage him. Once he has come to your left side praise him with great enthusiasm and give him a tit-bit.
As you walk he will, haltingly, be tempted to follow. With very gentle jerks of the lead, accompanied by soothing words of encouragement, keep on re-assuring him how good and clever he is. It might try your patience but eventually you will have gained his confidence. Any distractions that may present themselves must be accompanied by slight jerks of the lead. No words of reprimand, remember. But plenty of praise when he eventually comes to heel.
Regard this type of dog as a challenge to your perseverance and self-control. If you are capable of meeting this challenge - and capable of controlling (or at least hiding) your understandable and justifiable bouts of irritability, you will eventually have an excellent Obedience worker of whom you will one day be justifiably proud.
Do not continue to "baby talk", coddle and pamper this type of dog.
There is another important point to remember with regard to this highly sensitive, nervous type of dog. Once you have managed to overcome the first step of your training, which was the extreme reluctance to walk at heel and you have a dog that now walks willingly at heel, you must start to modify your method of training.
Very often owners with dogs, who have this nervous disposition, persist in to trying to reassure their on every occasion they demonstrate fear when faced with some unaccustomed unusual object or situation.
If, for example, while out walking with the dog, the animal is frightened by some unusual object in the street, the owner resorts to soft, soothing, "baby-talk", words of encouragement:
This is quite wrong. All that is happening is that the owner is endorsing the dog's nervous behavior. In effect the message the dog receives is: "I quite understand your concern. It is quite alright for you to be frightened". Instead of reassuring the dog with exaggerated words of reassurance and soft talking, the owner should behave in a completely, unconcerned manner with words and actions that reflect the following attitude. "Don't be silly now. You are acting foolishly. There is nothing to worry about"
Distract the dog. Do a few obedience exercises. "Sit" "Down". Speak in a mater-of-fact tone of voice. Act unconcerned as if there is nothing to worry about.
The lesson should be clear. In the initial stages of training you can reassure and encourage as much as you consider necessary so that you can overcome the initial hurdle of the dog not wanting to heel. But one you have got past this stage, move on. Do not go back to kindergarten classes.
Dog Number 3. The lazy dog. "Dozy"
The third type of dog - the dully, sluggish, and lazy dog - requires yet another approach. Here the enthusiasm must come from you. Once again it is important to remember that you must no show irritation as much as you are goaded. Muster as much enthusiasm a you can place the collar around "Dozy's" neck.
Walk briskly forward giving the command "heel" pleasantly and brightly. As "Dozy" lags behind - as he inevitably will - give little jerks on the lead and accompany these jerks with sounds of encouragement. Use your left hand to pat his hear with great affection. Show excitement as you walk briskly forward and remember that even though you are tempted to give the lazy blighter a smart kick in the rear, resist the temptation. Do not show any irritation at all.
One advantage of the lazy dog is that very often he is also a very greedy dog. Once again you can make judicious use of the tit-bit to encourage him to walk, closely at heel. But obviously do not make a habit of this form of encouragement because he will soon come to expect it as his just dessert every time and will not be satisfied with mere praise.
Because a dog of this type is not usually particularly sensitive you can correct lagging by turning sharply to the right without giving "dozy" any prior warning. While walking forward, and aware that "Dozy" is a few paces behind, pivot suddenly on your left leg and lunge sharply right. Accompanying your turn to the right with a sharp jerk on the lead as "Dozy" is caught unawares. He is forced to increase his pace in order to catch up with you. Praise him enthusiastically when he eventually does come to your left side.
Even though the approach is quite different with these three types of dogs, it is clear that the basic principle remains the same. When using the training collar to teach the dog to heel correctly, the dog must be left with the distinct impression that the jerk and discomfort that follows are his own fault.
The dog soon comes to realize that when he corrects his behavior not only does the discomfort cease but there is also the additional incentive of praise from his handler.
Use the training collar correctly.
Take full advantage of the training collar during these early stages of training.- the jerk followed by praise. At a later stage of training when the dog is required to work off lead, you will not be able to do so. But at this early stage of training make full use of the training collar to help you establish the correct relationship between you and your dog. In this way your dog will learn not only to love you but also to respect you. He will become an eager- to- please, willing, obedient, lovable companion.
This article is one of many that appears in the website http://www.freedogadvice.com There is also valuable information with regard to health, feeding and suggestions with regard to the choice of a suitable breed. For those interested in German Shepherds, there are in-depth articles about show and working bloodlines, with particular reference to top winning dogs in Germany - past and present.
Dennis Fisher has been involved with dogs as a Judge, Breeder and Director of Obedience training for his all-breed Obedience training Club. Although his special interest is German Shepherds, he has also personally owned and trained dogs of the follwing breeds: Great Danes, French Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Schipperkes, Dobermanns, and Fox Terriers. A great variety of articles covering a wide range of subjects can be found on his website http://www.freedogadvice.com
Although most dog owners would agree with the above, there are many who nevertheless shirk the responsibility of training their dogs because they mistakenly believe that it is a long, complex time-consuming process.
Obviously if you have ambitions to train your dog to Competition standard and to work with the perfect precision necessary for top honors in the Obedience ring, you must be prepared to devote a considerable amount of time to training. But if your purpose is simply to have a well-disciplined companion, you can achieve this goal without great effort and in a relatively short space of time.
If you are able to join one of the Obedience Dog Clubs in your area, so much the better. You will receive competent direction from an experienced trainer and in addition will have the opportunity of allowing your dog to come into contact with other dogs, which is a very great advantage.
Let us assume however that for various reasons this is not possible or convenient.
At the outset it is important for you to accept the fact that in order to have a well-behaved dog it is necessary for your dog to respect you in addition to loving you. You will command this respect by being firm, calm and confident in your manner without creating any confusion in your dog's mind.
How can you can command this respect? This is not as difficult as this may seem. There are certain basic rules to follow. Guide your dog in such a way that he has no doubt whatsoever as to what is required of him. Insist when you give a command it is in fact a command not a request. Praise him lavishly and unstintingly when he obeys your command. Reprimand him suitably and appropriately when he refuses to obey your command.
This is the basis of all obedience training. Praise for obeying a command and reprimand for disobeying a command.
Of these two factors, the question of reprimand is clearly the more difficult to apply. It also gives rise to the greatest difference of opinion in training methods.
Whereas it is virtually impossible to praise a dog too lavishly, and even if excessive praise is given no harm can result, an unnecessarily harsh reprimand of a sensitive young dogs for a relatively minor misdemeanor will have serious consequences and set your training back many months.
Understand the command.
Another point that should always be borne in mind is that you must always be absolutely certain that your dog understands the command you have given. If you have the slightest doubt on this score, the dog must be given the benefit before he is reprimanded.
All commands must be given in a firm, confident manner without raising your voice unnecessarily. There is no need whatsoever to act as if you were a drill sergeant on a parade ground. Any screaming or loss of control on your part - even if you consider you are being deliberately provoked - will only jeopardize the training process.
You want your dog to respect you by accepting the fact that you are someone prepared to guide him but who will not allow yourself to be taken advantage of by disobedience.
This can be accomplished without loss of control on your part. It can be accomplished by reprimanding him adequately and suitably for any disobedience. As soon as he accepts the fact that your commands are not requests, will respect you. The whole relationship between you and your dog hinges on this attitude.
How to reprimand
Now to turn to the important question of how to reprimand for disregarding a command you have given. It must be accepted that the temperaments of different dogs are as varied as that of human beings. The temperaments of different breeds vary enormously and even within a breed certain strains vary in sensitivity. Dog and bitches will also react differently to reproof.
Because of this it is most important for you to assess accurately the level of sensitivity of the dog you are training. For example, a mild correction such as a sharp "No! You bad dog!" could quite easily be sufficient reproof for a sensitive Border Collie bitch in order to bring about the required change in behaviour. On the other hand a boisterous, Great Dane male or Rottweiler would, in some instances, require a more vigorous and pronounced indication of disapproval.
It must be remembered however, that one should not fall into the trap of categorizing breeds with regard to behaviour patterns.
In mentioning the boisterous Great Dane this by no means is meant to suggest that all Great Danes are in any way obstinate or difficult to train. There are tremendous variations in temperament within the breeds. In fact a young harlequin Great Dane that I have at the moment responds so readily to commands t it only necessary for me to give them in a very soft voiced - almost as a whisper!
The same applies to Shepherds. I have had obstinate, self-willed Shepherds, while others I have owned have been so eager to please they have been an absolute delight to train. They have required an absolute minimum of effort in training.
When you are absolutely certain your dog understands your command and there is no confusion as to what you want him to do, it might be necessary for you to give him a really hard jerk of the leash. Before doing so make certain his training collar is of sufficient length to give positive effect to the jerk. You should accompany the jerk with a very definite and unmistakable "No!"
Limits to the extent of training.
It might be well to mention at this stage that with certain dogs there are limits to the extent of training to which you can hope to aspire. Now this may sound very negative advice indeed but it is raising false hopes to pretend that every animal can reach the same level of training.
Certain breeds are noted for their independence of spirit and in fact devotees of these breeds admire them for these very qualities. For example, it is highly unlikely if your happen to be training a Daschund - as lovable as this breed of dog happens to be - or a miniature Schnauzer - that you will reach top honors in Obedience tests. This in no way is meant to suggest that your Daschund or Schnauzer cannot be trained to become very well disciplined, obedient and responsive.
Patience, understanding and application of the principle of praise and reprimand will achieve the desired results with any dog. But with certain dogs it requires more patience and perseverance than with others.
Choice of breed to train.
If you are an ambitious and competitive type of person and anxious to excel in Obedience tests, it will be necessary for you to be very judicious in your choice not only with regard to the breed you select, but also to the strain within the breed. There is no doubt whatsoever that some dogs are more amenable to training than others and the training process will involve far less time and effort
This applies particularly to the German Shepherd Dog, a breed with which I have been associated for more than fifty years. Any competitor in German Shepherd Dog working trials will tell you that if you hope to be successful in this highly competitive field it is necessary to be very selective in your choice of the Shepherd you intend training.
A examination of the pedigrees of the top winners in German Shepherd Dog working trials in Germany, the United States and Britain will reveal that certain "working" lines consistently produce the top winners. There is no question that intelligence and -more important - willingness to work are inherited traits.
In all probability however, you already have a dog. You love him dearly and have no intention of parting with him merely because his ancestors were not noted for their working qualifications.
Training dogs with different temperaments.
In order to assist you with your training methods, let us try and simplify the process and deal with three distinct types of temperaments frequently found in dogs.
Obviously there are many variations and many traits overlaps but for the purpose of this article let us deal with three distinct type of temperaments and examine the training methods necessary in each case.
1.Dog Number One.
The highly-strung, over-exuberant dog.
Here is a bundle of nervous energy; a highly-strung, excitable, over-exuberant, extremely noisy, boisterous animal. Sometimes he barks excessively without any apparent reason. Often he is over-aggressive towards others dogs and even humans.
2. Dog Number two.
The shy, timid dog.
This dog is very shy, timid and completely lacking in self-confidence. He shrinks from human contact and when confronted with any situation with which he is unable to cope, he either backs into a corner and barks hysterically or otherwise rolls on his back in abject submissiveness.
3. Dog Number three.
The lazy dog.
This animal is quiet, docile to the point of disinterest, sluggish, dully and lazy, completely without enthusiasm except for his dinner dish.
Now we have three distinct types of dog - possibly somewhat exaggerated - but nevertheless easily recognizable. Our objective in each case is the same - to have a well-disciplined animal that will obey our commands,
Because this article is limited in scope let us presume that our initial training objective is to have a dog that will walk quietly at heel without pulling, dragging, straining or lagging. Let us examine how this can be achieved using the above three dogs as training examples.
For our purpose we shall require a leather lead and a training collar of sufficient length and sufficient strength. Place the collar over the neck in such a way that when the leash is jerked the collar will tighten and when the lead if relaxed the collar fits loosely. This simple training collar is a remarkable training device that will work equally well with all three dogs.
Let us commence with Dog Number 1. We will to refer him as "Blitz".
"BLITZ."
With your ball of fire on our left side, you step briskly forward. The dog is given the command "Heel". Holding the leash very firmly in your right hand you nevertheless make certain there is sufficient slack to give the dog the impression that he is NOT firmly restrained. In fact, because of this slackness, the dog is uncertain whether he is on lead or not
As expected the dog proceeds for exactly five seconds and then like a bolt he surges forward. With leather leash very firmly held by the right hand - or both hands if you prefer - you allow the dog to bolt forward until almost at the end of the lead. At this point you simply do a smart about turn. Note: There is no reprimand whatsoever!
In fact not a word is said. If your timing has been correct - and this may require some practice - a very surprised ball of fire will find himself being air-borne and completely jerked off his feet by his momentum.
He turns in mid-air to find you walking in the opposite direction At this stage you call his name very pleasantly and enthusiastically. "Good boy, Blitz! Heel boy!" and you pat your left leg encouragingly.
A somewhat confused "Blitz" comes running up to your left to receive his just rewards - lavish praise and a loving pat on his head!
Remember No word of reprimand should be given. "Blitz" was told to heel. He didn't heel and the jerk he received will not be associated with any unpleasantness caused by you. It was entirely his own fault; due to his own ineptness and clumsiness in not staying close to your left side.
There will be occasions in the future where you will be required to jerk the lead as a definite reprimand and accompany the jerk with a vocal reprimand. "Blitz" will then have no doubt in his mind that this jerk is a reprimand. But at this stage our purpose is to confuse "Blitz" into believing that the discomfort he received by being jerked off his fee was entirely his own fault.
After no more than 4 or 5 incidents of this nature a very disconcerted "Blitz" will suspect that every cat that darts in his path and every motor-cyclist who happens to ride by is merely a trick that has been devised to fool him into rushing after it and being jerked off his feet.
Quite soon you will be well on your way to having a dog who is a pleasure to take for a stroll because he heels comfortably at your side in spite of every possible distraction.
Dog number 2. "Flinch"
Quite clearly the method we used with Dog Number 1 will be unsuitable with dog Number 2 - the shy, timid dog who is lacking in self-confidence.
This dog - le us refer him as "Flinch - is so lacking in confidence that he is constant need of praise and assurance. Let it be quite clear that if one has the patience, perseverance and calm temperament to deal with a dog of this nature it is possible to have a remarkably good worker who will do everything possible to please you and earn your praise. He will ask nothing more from life than your praise and he will become absolutely devoted to you.
But, it should be stressed, dogs of this type do require a tremendous amount of patience, understanding and - above all - self-control. Whereas it is possible to speak harshly to most dogs without serious consequences, a dog of this nature will react most unfavorably to harshness and one thoughtless reprimand can set you back weeks of hard work in building up his confidence.
Dog refuses to budge.
After placing the collar on your "Flinch" and attaching the lead he is more than likely to set his hind-quarters on the ground and refuse to budge; or he will twist himself around your legs - pull to the right - to the side - dart off in the direction of home and do absolutely everything anything but the "heel" you have commanded him.
In this case you must resort once again to a little trickery, but of a different kind. Try and let him associate the training collar and the leash and the stroll with something pleasant. In your left hand or your left pocket keep little pieces of boiled liver that you have dried in the oven, or some other delicacy. If he refuses to budge coax him - encourage him. Once he has come to your left side praise him with great enthusiasm and give him a tit-bit.
As you walk he will, haltingly, be tempted to follow. With very gentle jerks of the lead, accompanied by soothing words of encouragement, keep on re-assuring him how good and clever he is. It might try your patience but eventually you will have gained his confidence. Any distractions that may present themselves must be accompanied by slight jerks of the lead. No words of reprimand, remember. But plenty of praise when he eventually comes to heel.
Regard this type of dog as a challenge to your perseverance and self-control. If you are capable of meeting this challenge - and capable of controlling (or at least hiding) your understandable and justifiable bouts of irritability, you will eventually have an excellent Obedience worker of whom you will one day be justifiably proud.
Do not continue to "baby talk", coddle and pamper this type of dog.
There is another important point to remember with regard to this highly sensitive, nervous type of dog. Once you have managed to overcome the first step of your training, which was the extreme reluctance to walk at heel and you have a dog that now walks willingly at heel, you must start to modify your method of training.
Very often owners with dogs, who have this nervous disposition, persist in to trying to reassure their on every occasion they demonstrate fear when faced with some unaccustomed unusual object or situation.
If, for example, while out walking with the dog, the animal is frightened by some unusual object in the street, the owner resorts to soft, soothing, "baby-talk", words of encouragement:
This is quite wrong. All that is happening is that the owner is endorsing the dog's nervous behavior. In effect the message the dog receives is: "I quite understand your concern. It is quite alright for you to be frightened". Instead of reassuring the dog with exaggerated words of reassurance and soft talking, the owner should behave in a completely, unconcerned manner with words and actions that reflect the following attitude. "Don't be silly now. You are acting foolishly. There is nothing to worry about"
Distract the dog. Do a few obedience exercises. "Sit" "Down". Speak in a mater-of-fact tone of voice. Act unconcerned as if there is nothing to worry about.
The lesson should be clear. In the initial stages of training you can reassure and encourage as much as you consider necessary so that you can overcome the initial hurdle of the dog not wanting to heel. But one you have got past this stage, move on. Do not go back to kindergarten classes.
Dog Number 3. The lazy dog. "Dozy"
The third type of dog - the dully, sluggish, and lazy dog - requires yet another approach. Here the enthusiasm must come from you. Once again it is important to remember that you must no show irritation as much as you are goaded. Muster as much enthusiasm a you can place the collar around "Dozy's" neck.
Walk briskly forward giving the command "heel" pleasantly and brightly. As "Dozy" lags behind - as he inevitably will - give little jerks on the lead and accompany these jerks with sounds of encouragement. Use your left hand to pat his hear with great affection. Show excitement as you walk briskly forward and remember that even though you are tempted to give the lazy blighter a smart kick in the rear, resist the temptation. Do not show any irritation at all.
One advantage of the lazy dog is that very often he is also a very greedy dog. Once again you can make judicious use of the tit-bit to encourage him to walk, closely at heel. But obviously do not make a habit of this form of encouragement because he will soon come to expect it as his just dessert every time and will not be satisfied with mere praise.
Because a dog of this type is not usually particularly sensitive you can correct lagging by turning sharply to the right without giving "dozy" any prior warning. While walking forward, and aware that "Dozy" is a few paces behind, pivot suddenly on your left leg and lunge sharply right. Accompanying your turn to the right with a sharp jerk on the lead as "Dozy" is caught unawares. He is forced to increase his pace in order to catch up with you. Praise him enthusiastically when he eventually does come to your left side.
Even though the approach is quite different with these three types of dogs, it is clear that the basic principle remains the same. When using the training collar to teach the dog to heel correctly, the dog must be left with the distinct impression that the jerk and discomfort that follows are his own fault.
The dog soon comes to realize that when he corrects his behavior not only does the discomfort cease but there is also the additional incentive of praise from his handler.
Use the training collar correctly.
Take full advantage of the training collar during these early stages of training.- the jerk followed by praise. At a later stage of training when the dog is required to work off lead, you will not be able to do so. But at this early stage of training make full use of the training collar to help you establish the correct relationship between you and your dog. In this way your dog will learn not only to love you but also to respect you. He will become an eager- to- please, willing, obedient, lovable companion.
This article is one of many that appears in the website http://www.freedogadvice.com There is also valuable information with regard to health, feeding and suggestions with regard to the choice of a suitable breed. For those interested in German Shepherds, there are in-depth articles about show and working bloodlines, with particular reference to top winning dogs in Germany - past and present.
Dennis Fisher has been involved with dogs as a Judge, Breeder and Director of Obedience training for his all-breed Obedience training Club. Although his special interest is German Shepherds, he has also personally owned and trained dogs of the follwing breeds: Great Danes, French Poodles, Cairn Terriers, Schipperkes, Dobermanns, and Fox Terriers. A great variety of articles covering a wide range of subjects can be found on his website http://www.freedogadvice.com
Thursday, 13 January 2011
Dog Aggression: How to Recognize & Respond
Many dog owners are bewildered when they hear their dog growl, bark, or take an aggressive stance. Unfortunately, many of these animals end up in shelters because the owners could no longer live with the dog. Would you give up on your child that easily?
Of course not! When a baby is brought home to his new family, everyone understands that the baby is learning your language and teaching you his. We begin to understand our child?s cry or garbled sounds because we focus on trying to understand him.
Your dog has his own language as well. Understanding dog aggression and your dog?s language will help prevent undesirable behavior and dog bites. Let?s begin our understanding of dog aggression with the acronym DOG BITES:
Dominant
Opportunity
Game
Boy/Girl
Injury
Territorial
Escape
Dominant aggression is also known as competitive aggression. It is brought on when one dog feels challenged for his social position by another dog (or human). Dogs are pack animals. Social order helps feed and protect the pack.
The dog with the highest social order is called the ?alpha? dog. The alpha dog gets all the perks such as eating whatever he wants, sleeping wherever he wants, and dictating to the others in the pack. He decides when the others get to eat and sleep.
Even owners of a single dog may observe dominant aggression since the dog sees the owner as a member of his pack. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated by the dog who lays on a favorite chair and growls at the owner when told to get down.
The aggression is a challenge for social position and dibs for the seating arrangement. How the owner reacts to the challenge determines whether the dog becomes more aggressive or submissive in the situation.
Here?s a less obvious challenge to an owner?s dominance in the pack?
You are sitting in the living room watching television. Your dog comes up to you and slides his head under your hand. You think your dog is adorable and wants your attention, so you pet him as requested.
Here is the punch line to this situation. Petting is similar to licking. Submissive, less dominant dogs in the pack lick the more dominant dogs. In other words, you were challenged and responded with an ok to be the submissive of the challenge.
Petting (or licking) behavior does not always signify submissiveness. There are other situations when dogs lick, but we will not pursue that topic here. What we will offer here is a suggestion on how to respond to the situation above.
Gently cup your hand over your dog?s muzzle. Rub behind his ears with a little pressure. These actions closely resemble social order biting. Dominant dogs bite the ears, nose, and neck areas of less dominant dogs to keep them in line. Just watch a mother dog with a litter of pups! You?ll see the behavior right away.
Opportunity aggression is aggression that is intended for another dog or person; however, it is redirected to a closer dog or person because the opportunity to attack is better. An example of this type of aggression is demonstrated when trying to break up two fighting dogs. Sometimes, the person breaking up the fight gets bit.
Caution is the best approach to take with opportunity or redirected aggression. If a dog is agitated, it is better to maintain a safe distance until the dog feels less vulnerable and relaxes.
Game aggression is predatory in nature. A dog will chase anything that moves away from it. The dog is a natural hunter of small game. When something runs from a dog, the dog?s chase, hunt, capture, and kill instinct takes over.
A human cannot out run a dog. If a dog attacks, the best course of action is to lie down and play dead. This action is a submissive move.
You have probably seen a dog lie down and bear his vulnerable belly to a more dominant dog. He is communicating to the more dominant dog that he is not a threat to the more dominant dog.
Boy/girl aggression is all about the hormones! This type of aggression is also known as sexual aggression. The male dog protects his female from other dogs and potential threats to his progeny.
Female dogs, however, also display this sexual aggression when they are pregnant, nursing, or in heat. Even the most docile female may growl or attempt to bite anyone who dares to pick up one of her pups too soon!
Sexual aggression is reduced through spaying and neutering. Most veterinarians recommend spaying or neutering your dog during the 6-12 months of age.
Injury aggression is aggression brought on by injury or pain. You might easily see this type of aggression in a dog that has been hit by a car or one who is suffering from age-induced arthritis.
Injury or pain aggression is best handled by seeking medical care for the dog. Try not to touch the painful areas unless absolutely necessary for therapy or to get your dog to safety. Diet, activity, medications, and bedding may help alleviate the pain and therefore, the aggressive behavior.
Territorial aggression is aggression displayed to protect the pack?s territory. The dog?s territory may be much different from your thoughts of the house and backyard. Indeed, if you take him on any walks, he may even consider the whole neighborhood his territory!
When a dog is in a new environment, he may be ?territorial? because he isn?t sure of his surroundings. This is why a dog that is boarded may be ?cage aggressive.? The dog is protecting the small territory of the cage from intruders.
When this is the case, let the dog have his space. He is stressed out and will feel protected in his own area.
Territorial aggression may also be used to protect the pack from perceived external threats. A protective dog is one that shows aggression toward other animals or people when he perceives a threat to his owner or other members of the pack.
A dog may also show territorial aggression with possessions. He will protect anything that he perceives as his. This includes food, bedding, toys, affection, and anything else that is part of his world.
Escape aggression is also called fear aggression. A dog that is afraid will often shake. The ears will probably be all the way back on the head and the tail will be low. He feels powerless and puts up a fight because he feels trapped like he has no where to escape.
This type of aggression may also be brought on by the fear of punishment. Imagine someone standing much taller than you with his hand raised above his head. Is he going to hit me?
n
Walking straight toward a dog, giving direct eye contact, or makig sudden movements can trigger fear aggression. Always move slowly around dogs that are afraid. Never give direct eye contact or move right towards a fearful dog.
About the Author: Julie Butts is a Kennel Manager and author of http://www.all-about-small-breed-dogs.com, an online guide for selecting, owning, and raising a small breed dog. Her website is dedicated to small breed dog lovers and includes information on breeds, training, behavior, grooming, supplies, books, gifts, and more.
Read more about dog behavior and dog aggression.
Tuesday, 11 January 2011
Bringing Home a Second Dog
Bringing a second dog home requires a lot of thought. It means a complete change in your "normal" family routine. It matters not whether the new dog is a puppy or an adult.
There are many things to consider before you bring the new pet home.
It is not just a matter of bringing the new dog home and you all will live happily ever after (though that can be a remote possibility.)
You need to take time to think this new undertaking through and mull over these questions:
Are you living on a tight budget? A second dog will require annual vet visits, will need food, toys, perhaps a new crate and possible training classes.
A second dog requires "time." Do you have extra time to play, for walks, time to groom your pet, time for feeding, training and extra clean up?
Does your current dog have any behavioral problems? A
new dog might not be able to teach your old dog to stop misbehaving. You could end up with two dogs each with bad behaviors, making matters worse.
Do you have the patience to adhere to "dog pack' rules? Even though you are the LEADER, two dogs are a pack and one or the other will become the second leader. If it's the new dog, can you adjust to following the rules? The leader dog gets to be "first" in all things and you cannot change that. Trying to change what is natural dog behavior will cause conflict and "big trouble."
Are you prepared for the resident dog to start misbehaving, such as using the house as a potty place, chewing things and just being destructive in general? The newcomer may upset your pet.
Is your current dog friendly with other dogs and people? If your resident dog is a "bully," your chances of finding a "friend" for him/her are slim. Training classes for your current dog maybe the answer before you plunge into getting another dog.
How is the stress level in your household? Have you moved, added a new family member or has anything else happened to upset the normal routine of the household? Dogs stress out during changes in their routine. Times of stress are not a good time to bring home a new dog.
Are you happy with your dog right now? A second dog could bring changes in your dog's personality. The two dogs could really bond
and might prefer being together, ignoring you, except for food and treats. Are you ready to accept that?
Read these questions a few times and answer them truthfully. Being truthful will help eliminate you making a mistake.
Some dogs really don't want a "companion," they are as happy as a clam being the "only dog."
The real question here is "is it you that wants a new dog?"
Once you have made up your mind and truly feel that another dog will be an added benefit to your household. There are a few more things to consider such as: puppy, young adult or an older dog. That will depend on your resident dog.
Puppies are probably easier to introduce to your current dog, as a puppy doesn't appear as an intruder, only as a pest.
If you decide on a puppy, please keep this in mind. Puppies do not realize they are supposed to behave in a certain way until they are about 4 months old.
Until they are old enough to know all this "dog stuff," it will be up to you to protect the puppy from the older dog and protect the older dog from the puppy.
The puppy will drive the older dog crazy at times. Puppies want to play; older dogs will play for a little while then want to stop.
It is up to you to give your older pet, free time away from "fluff and stuff."
Do not under any circumstances leave the puppy and older dog alone without supervision.
Always put the puppy in its crate or put your resident dog in a safe room if you are leaving the house or cannot supervise.
The older dog could unintentionally injure the puppy, if the puppy pesters the older dog too much.
Adding a young adult dog or an older dog to your household requires a lot more tact along with patience and planning. You are going to need help with this one.
Step number one; the dogs will have to meet on neutral ground. To do this you will need help of a friend or a relative (not a member of your household.)
The dogs need to meet in a place your dog has never been, that will be the neutral territory. It can be a park, a neighbor's yard, or if all else fails a parking lot.
Both dogs need to be on a leash and introduced casually. Allow them to do all the "doggy things," such as smelling each other, their stance may be rigid, but for the first meeting that is okay. However, if you hear growling or see lip curling, calmly move them apart.
Remain calm and do not be nervous, talk to the dogs in a "happy voice."
After a few minutes try to introduce them again, but do not let them get too close together.
If the growling and lip curling happens again it is a good bet that these two will not ever be friends.
Whatever you do, do not try to force a friendship. You will only be looking for a great deal of trouble when you get them home.
Dogs will fight and if they do not like each other, it can be disastrous for you and the dogs.
In looking for a new dog (not a puppy) try to find a dog whose personality matches that of your dog. If your dog is outgoing and friendly, find one that is equally so. If your dog is quiet and gentle, do not bring home a dog that is very active and playful, the match more than likely will not work.
Female dogs that have been the only dog in the house seem to have a harder time adjusting to a new "friend."
Dogs that have been socialized and get along well with other dogs have an easier time relating to a new dog in the household.
One of the first rules in raising a puppy is "socialize, socialize and socialize" some more. If you have followed that rule, adding a new dog should be easier.
Once the introductions have been made and it is time to bring the two dogs home a good suggestion is "do not bring them home together" in the same car. Let the person who helped you with the introduction bring the new dog home.
It is a suggested procedure that when you have both dogs at home you keep their leashes on them. It will be easier for you to keep control if you need to by having a leash to grab on to.
If the new dog is close in age to your resident dog there is bound to be a bit of aggression going on.
You now have a "pack," it will be necessary for the two dogs to decide which one is going to be second in charge (you are the real leader) and this decision may take some haggling.
Acceptable aggressive behavior should last for a few seconds (10 --20 seconds) and may consist of some growling, lip curling, snarling, snapping and possibly pinning one of the dogs down by the neck.
Unacceptable aggressive behavior would be biting to draw blood or any of the above behaviors that last more than a few seconds.
One of the dogs may exhibit submissive behavior and this is to be expected also. Barking like a puppy, rolling over on its back, tail between its legs, running away from the other dog are all acceptable submissive behaviors.
It may take the dogs a week or two to settle on who is the leader and while that is going on DO NOT let them alone together unsupervised.
Put the dogs in separate areas or in their crates, do not let them be together until you are certain they have settled their ranking and will get along.
The hardest thing for you will be following their decision especially if your first dog is no longer the "number one."
The important thing here is that you abide by their decision no matter how hard it will be for you.
The number one dog gets the first treats, is first out the door, is first to be fed and so on.
Speaking of feeding, give each dog their own bowls and their own eating spot, do not let one steal food from the other.
Expect your first dog to go through some stress and probably some misbehavior patterns as this new addition will be upsetting to it and the dog will need to adjust.
It is up to you to expect these problems and act accordingly. Remember your dog did not ask for a new friend. It was your idea. As the old saying goes "you made your bed now lie in it."
It may take a month or more for a routine to establish and peace to rein supreme once again in your household. If you keep the dogs apart when you are not home to supervise and you make the time they spend together "fun" they will soon become friends, maybe not "best friends," but close enough to enjoy being together.
Do not forget that you are the LEADER, the boss supreme, and you run the show, and both dogs need to follow your orders first.
Do not beat, hit or otherwise use force to make a point, be patient, stern if necessary and most of all CONSISTENT in what you are asking of the dogs.
One last point: exercise is the secret to keeping your dogs too tired to argue with each other. Exercise relieves their stress (and maybe yours. too) and tired dogs behave better.
Good luck and remember to have FUN.
I am a mother of 6, grandmother of 9 and great grandmother of 4. Animals and their care has been a part of my life from early childhood. I have hand raised many kittens, puppies, squirrels and baby birds with great success. I am committed to educating people to understand that having a pet is a commitment and not just a "fly-by-night" endeavor. Having a pet means caring and loving it for its lifetime and not just for a time that suits your wim. For more information on the care and nurturing of cats and dogs please see my website at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com
There are many things to consider before you bring the new pet home.
It is not just a matter of bringing the new dog home and you all will live happily ever after (though that can be a remote possibility.)
You need to take time to think this new undertaking through and mull over these questions:
Are you living on a tight budget? A second dog will require annual vet visits, will need food, toys, perhaps a new crate and possible training classes.
A second dog requires "time." Do you have extra time to play, for walks, time to groom your pet, time for feeding, training and extra clean up?
Does your current dog have any behavioral problems? A
new dog might not be able to teach your old dog to stop misbehaving. You could end up with two dogs each with bad behaviors, making matters worse.
Do you have the patience to adhere to "dog pack' rules? Even though you are the LEADER, two dogs are a pack and one or the other will become the second leader. If it's the new dog, can you adjust to following the rules? The leader dog gets to be "first" in all things and you cannot change that. Trying to change what is natural dog behavior will cause conflict and "big trouble."
Are you prepared for the resident dog to start misbehaving, such as using the house as a potty place, chewing things and just being destructive in general? The newcomer may upset your pet.
Is your current dog friendly with other dogs and people? If your resident dog is a "bully," your chances of finding a "friend" for him/her are slim. Training classes for your current dog maybe the answer before you plunge into getting another dog.
How is the stress level in your household? Have you moved, added a new family member or has anything else happened to upset the normal routine of the household? Dogs stress out during changes in their routine. Times of stress are not a good time to bring home a new dog.
Are you happy with your dog right now? A second dog could bring changes in your dog's personality. The two dogs could really bond
and might prefer being together, ignoring you, except for food and treats. Are you ready to accept that?
Read these questions a few times and answer them truthfully. Being truthful will help eliminate you making a mistake.
Some dogs really don't want a "companion," they are as happy as a clam being the "only dog."
The real question here is "is it you that wants a new dog?"
Once you have made up your mind and truly feel that another dog will be an added benefit to your household. There are a few more things to consider such as: puppy, young adult or an older dog. That will depend on your resident dog.
Puppies are probably easier to introduce to your current dog, as a puppy doesn't appear as an intruder, only as a pest.
If you decide on a puppy, please keep this in mind. Puppies do not realize they are supposed to behave in a certain way until they are about 4 months old.
Until they are old enough to know all this "dog stuff," it will be up to you to protect the puppy from the older dog and protect the older dog from the puppy.
The puppy will drive the older dog crazy at times. Puppies want to play; older dogs will play for a little while then want to stop.
It is up to you to give your older pet, free time away from "fluff and stuff."
Do not under any circumstances leave the puppy and older dog alone without supervision.
Always put the puppy in its crate or put your resident dog in a safe room if you are leaving the house or cannot supervise.
The older dog could unintentionally injure the puppy, if the puppy pesters the older dog too much.
Adding a young adult dog or an older dog to your household requires a lot more tact along with patience and planning. You are going to need help with this one.
Step number one; the dogs will have to meet on neutral ground. To do this you will need help of a friend or a relative (not a member of your household.)
The dogs need to meet in a place your dog has never been, that will be the neutral territory. It can be a park, a neighbor's yard, or if all else fails a parking lot.
Both dogs need to be on a leash and introduced casually. Allow them to do all the "doggy things," such as smelling each other, their stance may be rigid, but for the first meeting that is okay. However, if you hear growling or see lip curling, calmly move them apart.
Remain calm and do not be nervous, talk to the dogs in a "happy voice."
After a few minutes try to introduce them again, but do not let them get too close together.
If the growling and lip curling happens again it is a good bet that these two will not ever be friends.
Whatever you do, do not try to force a friendship. You will only be looking for a great deal of trouble when you get them home.
Dogs will fight and if they do not like each other, it can be disastrous for you and the dogs.
In looking for a new dog (not a puppy) try to find a dog whose personality matches that of your dog. If your dog is outgoing and friendly, find one that is equally so. If your dog is quiet and gentle, do not bring home a dog that is very active and playful, the match more than likely will not work.
Female dogs that have been the only dog in the house seem to have a harder time adjusting to a new "friend."
Dogs that have been socialized and get along well with other dogs have an easier time relating to a new dog in the household.
One of the first rules in raising a puppy is "socialize, socialize and socialize" some more. If you have followed that rule, adding a new dog should be easier.
Once the introductions have been made and it is time to bring the two dogs home a good suggestion is "do not bring them home together" in the same car. Let the person who helped you with the introduction bring the new dog home.
It is a suggested procedure that when you have both dogs at home you keep their leashes on them. It will be easier for you to keep control if you need to by having a leash to grab on to.
If the new dog is close in age to your resident dog there is bound to be a bit of aggression going on.
You now have a "pack," it will be necessary for the two dogs to decide which one is going to be second in charge (you are the real leader) and this decision may take some haggling.
Acceptable aggressive behavior should last for a few seconds (10 --20 seconds) and may consist of some growling, lip curling, snarling, snapping and possibly pinning one of the dogs down by the neck.
Unacceptable aggressive behavior would be biting to draw blood or any of the above behaviors that last more than a few seconds.
One of the dogs may exhibit submissive behavior and this is to be expected also. Barking like a puppy, rolling over on its back, tail between its legs, running away from the other dog are all acceptable submissive behaviors.
It may take the dogs a week or two to settle on who is the leader and while that is going on DO NOT let them alone together unsupervised.
Put the dogs in separate areas or in their crates, do not let them be together until you are certain they have settled their ranking and will get along.
The hardest thing for you will be following their decision especially if your first dog is no longer the "number one."
The important thing here is that you abide by their decision no matter how hard it will be for you.
The number one dog gets the first treats, is first out the door, is first to be fed and so on.
Speaking of feeding, give each dog their own bowls and their own eating spot, do not let one steal food from the other.
Expect your first dog to go through some stress and probably some misbehavior patterns as this new addition will be upsetting to it and the dog will need to adjust.
It is up to you to expect these problems and act accordingly. Remember your dog did not ask for a new friend. It was your idea. As the old saying goes "you made your bed now lie in it."
It may take a month or more for a routine to establish and peace to rein supreme once again in your household. If you keep the dogs apart when you are not home to supervise and you make the time they spend together "fun" they will soon become friends, maybe not "best friends," but close enough to enjoy being together.
Do not forget that you are the LEADER, the boss supreme, and you run the show, and both dogs need to follow your orders first.
Do not beat, hit or otherwise use force to make a point, be patient, stern if necessary and most of all CONSISTENT in what you are asking of the dogs.
One last point: exercise is the secret to keeping your dogs too tired to argue with each other. Exercise relieves their stress (and maybe yours. too) and tired dogs behave better.
Good luck and remember to have FUN.
I am a mother of 6, grandmother of 9 and great grandmother of 4. Animals and their care has been a part of my life from early childhood. I have hand raised many kittens, puppies, squirrels and baby birds with great success. I am committed to educating people to understand that having a pet is a commitment and not just a "fly-by-night" endeavor. Having a pet means caring and loving it for its lifetime and not just for a time that suits your wim. For more information on the care and nurturing of cats and dogs please see my website at http://www.cats-and-dogs-on-the-web.com
Monday, 10 January 2011
Crate Training A Puppy Or Adult Dog
Many people, who unfortunately misunderstand the concept of good crate training, believe that crating a dog for any length of time is cruel and they refuse to even consider it. In fact, a crate really is a wonderful tool when used correctly. Crate training can be fun for the puppy if you make it a POSITIVE experience. I firmly believe it to be the fastest and easiest way to potty train a puppy or even an adult, previously untrained dog.
The majority of new pet owners misconstrue the purpose of a dog crate. It is NOT used to punish a puppy; the puppy should deem the crate to be his safe haven. Once you recognize this fact, you will be able to utilize the puppy's den to your advantage and build up a proper potty training plan.
When you have a new puppy or dog, you will use a crate to limit his admission to the entire house until he learns all the house rules. A crate is also a secure way of transporting your dog in the car, as well as an opportunity to take him places where it may not be appropriate for him to run without restraint.
Giving the pup special "treats" is a perfect way to introduce him to his crate. The only time the puppy receives these special treats is when he is in the crate; the treats become associated with the crate. Thus, when introduced and used correctly, your dog will think of his crate as his safe haven and he will be happy to spend time there when required. Basically, you need to think like a dog for this to work: normally, a dog never chooses a busy part of the house for his hideaway. He usually selects a dark corner off by himself where he feels sheltered and safe; maybe under a table or chair or between furniture where he is able to see anyone approaching. So, use this concept to your advantage, now that you understand the dog's purpose for the crate is that it becomes his "den" you can move forward. Remember though, repetition is essential. Your puppy will not understand what you want unless you repeatedly show him exactly what is required of him.
A dog will never make his den dirty. If a dog is correctly trained to love his den, his instinct will be to keep it clean. This is the foremost reason why a crate works in potty training. A dog should always be at ease and safe in his crate and above all he always desires to have a clean environment. A crate must be a positive place where your dog can find security and pleasure. An attractive crate makes for a welcoming den - a comfy blanket, tasty treats, and a favorite toy help to make the pup comfortable. Also very important, the crate needs to be in a place where your dog will not feel as if he is part of the family and not isolated.
Always feed the pup/dog's regular meals somewhere close to his crate. This will also create a pleasant association with the crate. Some trainers recommend actually feeding meals inside the crate; this too is fine, but my personal preference is to keep food dishes outside. An exception to this could be with a adult dog who initially views the crate negatively; placing meals inside the crate will be a great encouragement to him accepting it. After the dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, begin moving the dishes outside.
To sum up: using a crate correctly, establishes restrictions for your dog when you are away from the house and unable to keep an eye on his behavior. A crate is also a safe area for your dog to be if you're having company and you have a less than social dog. Another surprising advantage: dogs who are afraid of thunderstorms or fireworks, often find refuge in their familiar crate/den.
Normally a puppy follows a very definite "potty pattern": when he wakes up in the morning; immediately after meal; when he wakes up from a nap; after he has been playing, or after it has been a while since he last went potty. At each of these strategic points, take the puppy outside to take care of his business. A puppy can not hold it a long time so you must be trained to anticipate his likely needs. Look at it this way, you need to understand that the better trained you become, the better trained your puppy will be.
The last two dogs I have crate trained personally were a six week old female Dalmatian puppy and an adult rescued (badly abused) female Dalmatian. I began the baby in a comfortable, plastic travel crate, while the adult dog was put in a much larger, fold down wire crate. Both crates were situated in the kitchen/dining room which is the most occupied area of the house.
With both dogs, the following schedule was set up and followed faithfully:
Early Morning: Puppy/dog woke up in her crate; I immediately took the puppy/dog outside to the part of the yard we had designated as her "potty area". Right from the start I began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", so that she would straight away associate the command with going to potty. Immediately she obliged, I praised her bother verbally and with lots of pats. We then returned to the house and the puppy was given breakfast and the adult dog was given a biscuit. After breakfast we both went back outside for the puppy to go potty while the adult dog went for a walk. Both dogs were then allowed to play safely for a while in the house, then back outside, potty, praise, return into the house, and naptime in the crate.
Afternoon: Puppy/dog woke up again; time to go outside. I immediately began repeating "Quickly, quickly, quickly", and pretty soon both animals obliged almost instantly and they were rewarded with lots of praise. Back into the house for lunch. Puppy/dog ate lunch the again went outside with me and went potty; lots of praise, then back into the house for playtime. The puppy indulged in lots of activity, while the adult dog socialized with us and explored the house. I allowed this for a given amount of time, then back outside to potty, then back into the crate for naptime.
Evening: Puppy/dog woke up and straight away went outside. Verbally encouraged, then praised, they both quickly went potty and knowing that they had done what was required of them, straight away looked to go back into the house for dinner. Dinner was eaten - back outside. Family social hour - back outside.
This routine WORKS. I will tell you with absolute honesty that in both instances, I didn't have to clean up a single "accident" with either animal.
At bed time, both animals had a last trip outside then were snuggled up for the night in their crate. When the puppy was very young, I set the alarm and took her outside once during the night. This nocturnal trip depends upon the age of the puppy and some babies may need to go out more than once during the night initially. This improves with age. Remember whenever he or she wakes you up in the middle of the night that your dog is reacting to your training and is actually doing the right thing by asking. Please be patient.
If you work, don't expect the puppy to wait 10 to 12 hours while you are gone. Make arrangements to go home for lunch, or have a neighbor or friend come over and follow the same routine of potty, praise, and play. As a puppy gets older and can hold it longer, the crate becomes less necessary. Just make sure that if you allow your dog freedom, he is still limited in a safe area. Check for electrical cords and unsafe "chewy" items. Better safe than sorry.
Remember, as your dog gets accustomed to his crate routine and enjoys the security of having his own space, never leave a puppy crated for longer than three or four hours at a time or an adult dog for longer than eight hours. If you crate your dog at night, you should make sure he has plenty of uncrated time during the day.
Even when the pup or dog is no longer confined to the crate, they continue see it as their "den", their refuge, and I keep it available to them with the entrance door propped open. Whenever they choose to go into the crate, make sure they are left alone; especially make children respect it as the pup or dog's private place. Dogs love their crates, when they remain available to them they prefer to use them, cuddled into their favorite blanket.
Crates are also a very useful tool to employ as a puppy becomes older and is going through the stage where it is losing its puppy teeth and chewing on everything. Then, it's a good idea to crate him whenever you are away from the house.
Proper crate training of a puppy shapes the puppy's behavior positively using his animal instincts to your advantage. Surely, this is much better than accidents on your floor. Remember above all else to be tolerant and consistent in your training. Love your puppy and give him lots of praise when he does it correctly. Dogs love praise; they thrive on it and positive reinforcement works every time.
Remember though, crate is NOT a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog will feel trapped and frustrated. As an example, if your dog is crated all day while you're at work and then crated again all night, he's definitely spending far too much time in much too small a space. Also remember that puppies under six months of age should never stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a stretch. They can't control their functions for longer periods.
If your dog whines or cries when crated at night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the crate, or whether he needs to be taken outside to eliminate. Try to ignore the whining for a few minutes. If your dog is just testing you, he will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things worse and will definitely destroy the dog's confidence in your training. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for several minutes, use the phrase he's learnt to associate with going outside to eliminate. If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time. If you're certain that your dog doesn't need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give in, otherwise you will just teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he wants. If you've progressed slowly but surely through the training steps and haven't done too much too fast, you will be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.
You need to be certain the crate is the correct size for the pup/dog. If it is too big, the pup may try to use part of it as a bathroom and this is something you definitely need to avoid. The crate needs to be big enough to allow the dog to stand up and lie down comfortably. If you know your dog is going to grow into a big dog, then consider getting a divider so you will have the proper size crate in the beginning and it can grow along with the dog!
Location is also immensely important. You must be able to hear the pup. If the pup is whining, he probably needs to go potty and should be taken out. Remember the routine outlined above. The crate should be in a room where there is activity.
Crates may be plastic (often referred to as flight kennels) or collapsible, metal pens. They come in different sizes and can be purchased at most pet supply stores as well as online. All have pros and cons, including cost, ventilation, clean-up, etc.
C. Anne is the author of multiple articles related to the care and nurture of domestic pets. She is an advocate of training by "Positive Reinforcement" and a campaigner against all forms of animal abuse and exploitation.
To visit C. Anne's pet blog Click ==> http://4petsonline.com
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